New York shows smell like teen spirit
Wednesday 16 February 2011
From Nirvana soundtracks to 'grunge-y' hair, maxi dresses and heavy boots, the 1990s were everywhere this season at the New York Autumn/Winter 2011 shows.
Pink hair was one of the most dominant beauty trends on the runways, but it wasn't the only look reminiscent of the punk years: Alexander Wang, Chris Benz, and Prabal Gurung all went for hair and makeup that drew on the 1990s, while fashion blog Refinery29 writes that "we spotted a slew of black models rocking a buzzed cut. ... And sure, a shaved head definitely has roots in '80s punk and '90s grunge (think Grace Jones, Empire Records, Sinead O'Connor, and M'Shell Ndegeocello) ...."
Speaking of musical references, the label Vena Cava handed out a magazine instead of the usual press release: 'Zina Cava' fed on the younger generation of editors' nostalgia for the decade, referencing everything from Zima to No Doubt, with prints of the obligatory Calvin Klein Jeans ads. The US design duo said they got inspired by Fiona Apple's music for a collection that included elements as elementarily 1990s as thin pleats - a detail that also appeared at Rachel Comey on maxi dresses.
One of the most lauded designers of the fashion week, Alexander Wang, was no exception to the rule, as Fashionista describes: "[Wang] looked more to Tom Ford at Gucci for inspiration. No, there weren't satin suits, but there were satin, sparkly skinny pants in pink, purple, and grey. There were also satin skirts cut up like streamers below the knee, paired with matching mohair sweaters in champagne and pale pink. Add on some furry stripper shoes - very Carrie Bradshaw circa 1998-and a satin poncho fit for Gwyneth Paltrow in her Brad Pitt days, and you've got a quintessentially late-'90s wardrobe."
Further evidence of the 1990s 'mania' were chokers, as seen at Tory Burch and Thakoon, turtlenecks that were spotted at Edun and Altuzarra and 'excessively' incorporated into every BCBG Max Azria look, and maxi dresses that were a staple on the runways of Tommy Hilfiger, Kimberly Ovitz, and Mara Hoffman.
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