And for him? Retro suits and floral sweatshirts
The menswear day at London Fashion Week yesterday offered sartorial solutions for suit-lovers, comfort-seekers, dandies and innovative dressers alike.
The tailor Ozwald Boateng's first London show was an epic affair, celebrating his 25th anniversary and shown in the Leicester Square Odeon. One hundred models showed off smart casual clothes and suits in traditional shades as well as Boateng's signature brights – turquoise, sunshine yellow, forest green and purple – and when the show finished theyall walked back to Savile Row in aprocession.
The more traditional Savile Row tailors Hardy Amies and E Tautz showed that standards don't have to slip in summer, using lightweight wools and linen mixes designed to stay sharp in the heat. Highlights in E Tautz's collection of smart-casual tailoring and light cotton and wool knitwear included a cornflower blue single-breasted shorts suit, which owner Patrick Grant described as being "a nod to the English schoolboy – Molesworth meets Monty".
Hardy Amies had also lightened up, swapping last year's evening suits for an "informal country look" which kept the sense of grandeur conveyed by the house's founder, who used to keep his Hermes secateurs on a solid gold tray. The static show featured models standing on a fake lawn wearing an array of unstructured suits in wools and linens.
Suits also made an appearance at the Topman Design show, although they were worn in a quirky, retro way, teamed with fish-patterned and vibrant floral shirts, and prints were also key at JW Anderson, where the show clashed patchwork, dip-dye and floral finishes on sweatshirts, T-shirts and tapered trousers.
Men after a more casual look would do better to look at Christopher Shannon, Martine Rose and the New Power Studio. Shannon's collection had a sportswear theme, with reggae-inspired string-vest-style patches and a blue, white and grey camouflage print appearing on sweatshirts, nylon shorts and jeans, while Martine Rose had combat trousers in brocade and leather.
New Power Studio started off with tracksuit bottoms teamed with nylon jackets. These were followed by four models in joined-together tracksuits, covered in toilet roll, who danced sinisterly down the catwalk. The prize for the most outré outfit of the morning went to the model wearing a coat and rucksack made from rubber gloves. The rucksack contained a small child.
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