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At Marc Jacobs, A-listers are so last season...

Designer bars stars from his New York show – with one exception

They have been used to front his advertising campaigns and they can afford his most extravagant creations. But for Marc Jacobs, celebrities are sooooo last season.

The American designer has caused a stir by barring that fashion week staple – the gurning A-list celebrity – from the front row of his show in New York this week.

In the past, Jacobs has been very happy for the young, rich and famous to get the best seats alongside his catwalk extravaganzas.

Recent rogues' galleries at his shows have included Victoria Beckham, Jennifer Lopez, Naomi Campbell, Sofia Coppola, Catherine Deneuve, Sophie Dahl, a Windsor, a Geldof and a Le Bon or two, and even the world men's tennis No 1 Roger Federer.

On one occasion, Jacobs even got Mrs Beckham to model what appeared to be a giant carrier bag.

His decision to bar the A-listers and make everyone focus firmly on the clothes may have been for creative reasons, but if other designers follow suit it could have financial consequences: some stars are paid tens of thousands of pounds to attend fashion shows.

But then Jacobs has no need to court publicity. As creative director of Louis Vuitton, he is one of the most influential names on the fashion circuit. The high street awaits his offerings each season to eagerly rush off their budget interpretations.

The designer opened his New York show with a denouncement of celebrity culture as "boring" – something of an about-turn – before kicking off the proceedings in spectacular style.

He tore layers of brown paper off what looked like a huge cardboard box to reveal 56 models, all wearing dazzlingly elegant and ladylike clothes.

Building on his signature style, Jacobs' autumn/winter 2010/11 collection had a vintage feel, courtesy of tea dresses and low, pointed Mary-Jane shoes. There were A-line dresses as well as a clingy body sweater decorated with shiny beads.

Jacobs streamed the event, with its pared-down guest-list, live on the label's website, allowing his fans to watch the show at the same time as industry insiders.

The show did wait for one celebrity to arrive before starting: the omnipotent Anna Wintour, editor of American Vogue.