Cold shoulders? No, they're hot, says Donatella
Shoulders are the new erogenous zone, according to Versace in Milan. Carola Long reports
Saturday 25 September 2010
Eros, be calm. Versace's spring/summer collection, shown in Milan yesterday, hailed the shoulder as a "new erogenous zone".
Only in the fashion world, perhaps – but then the label is known for its sex appeal, and designer Donatella Versace will get away with the claim. Exposed shoulder blades were the vogue at several shows at Milan, along with rather more significant themes of bright blocked colour and pattern.
The Versace collection began with all-white dresses, but as the show was based around "a playful game of proportions and opposites" there were also flashes of red, turquoise, coloured stripes and a bright pattern made up of the Greek key design which forms part of the label's logo.
The key pattern also informed geometrically arranged inserts of clear and coloured PVC, which appeared on clingy pencil dresses and offered glimpses of flesh. This being Versace, however, many dresses offered more than just glimpses, with decorative back belts known as martingales showing off the shoulders and revealing and framing the back. Floor-length gowns with bodices made of woven fringes which cascaded to the floor are sure to be coming soon to an awards ceremony near you.
The first show of the day, Moschino featured large, cartoonish spots and stripes throughout in a palette of mainly red, cream, black, white and yellow. Shapes included puffy cotton skirts, ruffled shirts, high-waisted jeans and cropped trousers and boxy Chanel-style jackets. Accessories came in the form of cream cowboy hats and cream scarves with black polka dots. Overall, the collection's spots and voluminous shapes were reminiscent of Lacroix's exuberant spirit and use of volume. Also within the collection there were off-the-shoulder peasant blouses in red and blue prints, which have cropped up in various forms at Fendi, D&G and Alberta Ferretti as well as at Marc Jacobs in New York.
At Etro, the peasant blouse came with voluminous sleeves with cut-out shoulders, in cream with gold sequins and in the form of printed tunics and smock dresses with one shoulder revealed. One of these was in bright cobalt blue, a key colour of the season. The peasant blouse was memorably designated high fashion by Yves Saint Laurent in the Seventies, and the jewel colours and shapes that have appeared this week, notably at Gucci, also recall his heyday.
In addition to the peasant blouses, tunics and dresses at Etro, there were other Seventies references at work, reinforcing signs from New York and London that the era is a major influence for next season. A white linen flared trouser suit recalled Bianca Jagger in her Studio 54 days, while mustard silk jumpsuits and halternecks in the paisley silk scarf print for which Etro is famous also evoked the disco decade. In a welcome alternative to the hard benches that the fashion crowd normally sits on, each place had a cushion in one of Etro's patterned silks.
Life & Style blogs
Plus live in a folly tower and Towcester growth
Plus how much you need to earn to rent in London, and new homes figures
Plus where The Apprentices live, house price growth outside London, and househunter numbers
The 10 Best Scotch Whiskies
Casualty in crisis: A&E - a service in meltdown
The myth of the modern dad exposed: New book claims men still won't sacrifice their careers for fatherhood
The experts' guide to summer: From getting fit for the beach to recreating that Olympic buzz
Obsessive compulsive hoarding: A serious health risk in store
- 1 Heading for America? Prepare for the longest US immigration queues ever
- 2 Notes from a small island: Is Sealand an independent 'micronation' or an illegal fortress?
- 3 You thought Ryanair's attendants had it bad? Wait 'til you hear about their pilots
- 4 'Swivel-gate': David Cameron at war with press over 'swivel-eyed loons' slur
- 5 It’s official: thanks to Stephen Hawking's Israel boycott, anti-Semitism is no more
BMF is the UK’s biggest and best loved outdoor fitness classes
Find out what The Independent's resident travel expert has to say about one of the most beautiful small cities in the world
Win anything from gadgets to five-star holidays on our competitions and offers page.
£28000 - £31500 per annum + benefits: Randstad Education Newcastle: Permanent ...
£50000 - £58000 per annum + Benefits and Bonus: Progressive Recruitment: SAP F...
£30000 - £40000 per annum + BENS: Progressive Recruitment: Drupal Developer A ...
£45000 - £50000 per annum + bens: Progressive Recruitment: C# WEB DEVELOPER Le...