Craig Green sails into challenging new territory, as Christopher Bailey takes Burberry on a trip


Assistant Fashion Editor

Craig Green is the name on industry lips right now, and yesterday he showed his first solo collection after a three-season stint with the MAN programme. Green’s first collection, replete with vast wooden sculptures worn on the face, inspired mirthless headlines such as “What a Plank!”. But his vision for spring/summer should be more easily digested by Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells, not least because those face structures were gone, replaced by frames from which colour-co-ordinated swathes floated like ethereal sails behind the promenading models.

The clean lines and abundant use of ribbon ties and drawstrings on loose-wrap jackets and apron-fronted trousers, evoked martial arts uniforms. There were workwear influences, too, executed most notably in denim, while there was also a hint of the Balearic super-club scene. Achieving a balance between creative, complex and wearable pieces is usually a stumbling block for young designers, and Green is obviously interested in pursuing something new and pushing boundaries, so it was reassuring that he took his fledgling solo steps without faltering.

At Sibling, the use of clothing as armour was literally interpreted as defensive scales on spike-textured knits, which were spattered with Swarovski crystals for more effect. Spots and hair, in the designers’ words “the two biggest preoccupations of your average self-obsessed youth”, were prominent motifs in their exploration of modern-day youth tribes, the former mutated into the brand’s now signature take on leopard print. After a couple of not so stellar seasons, it was good to see Sibling designers Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery on sturdier ground.

In contrast, Burberry takes mighty strides. True, they may not be giant leaps design-wise, but Christopher Bailey, chief creative officer and now CEO of the brand too, knows how to put on a show. He also knows that his customers are as interested in the dual heritage of Burberry and Britain as they are in any of the brand’s buy-it-now novelties. This season, Bailey was inspired by the gentleman explorer and travel writer Bruce Chatwin and the Britain in Pictures series from the 1940s. Such references are less than obvious, but when he puts his full force behind them, they tend to take flight.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: 3rd Line Virtualisation, Windows & Server Engineer

    £40000 - £47000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A 3rd Line Virtualisation / Sto...

    Recruitment Genius: Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Service Engineer

    £26000 - £35000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A successful national service f...

    Recruitment Genius: Business Development Executive / Sales - OTE £25,000

    £15000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an opportunity to join ...

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Administrator - Fixed Term Contract

    £17500 - £20000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: We currently require an experie...

    Day In a Page

    Syria civil war: Meet the military commander who says his soldiers will not rest until every inch of their war torn country is free of Islamist 'terrorists'

    ‘We won’t stop until Syria is back to normal’

    Near the front lines with Islamist-controlled towns where Assad’s troops were besieged just last month, Robert Fisk meets a commander confidently preparing his soldiers for battle
    Fifa corruption: Strip Qatar of the World Cup? Not likely

    Strip Qatar of the World Cup? Not likely

    But if a real smoking gun is found, that might change things, says Tom Peck
    Twenty two years later Jurassic Park series faces questions over accuracy of the fictional dinosaurs in it

    Tyrannosaurus wrecked?

    Twenty two years on, Jurassic Park faces questions over accuracy
    The inside story of how Bill Clinton built a $2bn global foundation may undermine Hillary's chances

    The inside story of how Bill Clinton built a $2bn global foundation...

    ... and how it may undermine Hillary's chances in 2016
    Genes greatly influence when and how many babies a woman will have, study finds

    Mother’s genes play key role in decision to start a family

    Study's findings suggest that human fertility is still evolving
    12 best olive oils

    Extra-virgin, cold-press, early-harvest, ultra-premium: 12 best olive oils

    Choosing an olive oil is a surprising minefield. Save yourself the hassle with our handy guide
    Rafa Benitez Real Madrid unveiling: New manager full of emotion at Bernabeu homecoming

    Benitez full of emotion at Bernabeu homecoming

    There were tears in the former Liverpool manager’s eyes as he was unveiled as Real Madrid coach. But the Spaniard knows he must make tough decisions if he is to succeed
    England can win the Ashes – and Elvis Presley will present the urn

    England can win the Ashes – and Elvis will present the urn

    In their last five Test, they have lost two and drawn two and defeated an India side last summer who thought that turning up was competing, says Stephen Brenkley
    Sepp Blatter resignation: The beginning of Fifa's long road to reform?

    Does Blatter's departure mean Fifa will automatically clean up its act?

    Don't bet on it, says Tom Peck
    Charles Kennedy: The baby of the House who grew into a Lib Dem giant

    The baby of the House who grew into a Lib Dem giant

    Charles Kennedy was consistently a man of the centre-left, dedicated to social justice, but was also a champion of liberty and an opponent of the nanny-state, says Baroness Williams
    Syria civil war: The harrowing testament of a five-year-old victim of this endless conflict

    The harrowing testament of a five-year-old victim of Syria's endless civil war

    Sahar Qanbar lost her mother and brother as civilians and government soldiers fought side by side after being surrounded by brutal Islamist fighters. Robert Fisk visited her
    The future of songwriting: How streaming is changing everything we know about making music

    The future of songwriting

    How streaming is changing everything we know about making music
    William Shemin and Henry Johnson: Jewish and black soldiers receive World War I Medal of Honor amid claims of discrimination

    Recognition at long last

    Jewish and black soldiers who fought in WWI finally receive medals after claims of discrimination
    Beating obesity: The new pacemaker which helps over-eaters

    Beating obesity

    The new pacemaker which helps over-eaters
    9 best women's festival waterproofs

    Ready for rain: 9 best women's festival waterproofs

    These are the macs to keep your denim dry and your hair frizz-free(ish)