Fresh take on a classic label as Dior's new boy Raf Simons brings flowers and finesse to the catwalk
Critics applaud hotly anticipated Paris debut from Raf Simons
Paris Fashion Week
Tuesday 03 July 2012
VIEW GALLERY
Related articles
The walls of inter-connecting salons were dressed with no less than 300,000 flowers for Raf Simons' much anticipated debut collection for Christian Dior in Paris yesterday. Guest filed through a first filled with waxy white orchids, then a second entirely covered in sunshine yellow mimosa, on to vivid blue delphiniums, pink peonies, black dahlias and more. Like the house's namesake, Simons loves flowers and such freshness extended beyond the setting.
The tiniest jewelled buds were scattered across New-Look-line dresses; skirts echoed the shape of upturned lilies or soon to open tulips and the colours of the finest silks, furs and gazars were just as lovely as nature intended.
This was an extremely hopeful first outing, full of bright new ideas but respectful of this grand fashion name's heritage all the while. Tailoring was complex, standing away from the body to exaggerate the curves of the female form to which M Dior, likewise, was ardently attached. Discreet trompe l'oeil details – the lapel of a jacket disappearing into its body, for example – spoke more of Simons' own handwriting.
Embroidery was similarly subtle: picture a pair of perfectly cut, black, cigarette leg trousers worn with a jewel-encrusted bell top or a Klein blue bustier revealing the intricate workmanship the French ateliers are known and revered for as its train fluttered from behind.
Since Simons' appointment was formally announced in April, fashion insiders have speculated how this so-called "minimal" designer might interpret Dior's codes, steeped as they are in femininity and nostalgia.
But, the designer said, he is "a romantic person too" and that rang out loud and clear. Still, if haute couture is all about indulgence and a limitless budget, there was a restraint in evidence here that was both welcome and unusual. "I wasn't trying to make a story," Simons, pictured right, added. "I wanted the clothes to be linked to Christian Dior but to make them more dynamic." Add to the mix red mascara, streaks of silver on models' eyelids and an almost violently orange pout and that is what he achieved.
Since John Galliano's dismissal from Dior in March last year, following allegations of anti-Semitism and racism – he was later found guilty of both – Dior women's wear has been overseen by Bill Gaytten, responsible for care-taking the brand until Simons took to the helm. In a rather less bold manner, the former designer also took a mid-20th-century couture silhouette as the foundation to build upon and the result was a "big increase" in sales which leapt by 29 per cent to €284m during the first quarter of this year. Simons has a degree in industrial and furniture design but moved into fashion in the mid-Nineties launching a highly influential menswear line.
From 2005, he designed women's wear for Jil Sander before arriving at Dior. He is the label's sixth couturier. Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan and Gianfranco Ferre all also once presided over the house.
Life & Style blogs
In the ‘European Month of the Brain’ should we be open-minded about spiritual solutions?
Nobel Peace prize winner Albert Schweitzer once quipped: “Happiness is nothing more than good health...
Hearing loss: An invisible impairment and a preventable disability
Many years ago, I lost nearly all my upper frequency hearing as a result of military action. What pr...
- 1 Asteroid nine times the size of the QE2 liner to sail pass Earth
- 2 Notes from a small island: Is Sealand an independent 'micronation' or an illegal fortress?
- 3 British business: We need to stay in the European Union - or risk losing up to £92bn a year
- 4 You thought Ryanair's attendants had it bad? Wait 'til you hear about their pilots
- 5 It’s official: thanks to Stephen Hawking's Israel boycott, anti-Semitism is no more
Get your summer started with British Military Fitness
BMF is the UK’s biggest and best loved outdoor fitness classes
Visit York
Find out what The Independent's resident travel expert has to say about one of the most beautiful small cities in the world
Enter the latest Independent competitions
Win anything from gadgets to five-star holidays on our competitions and offers page.
Business videos from commercial thought leaders
Watch the best in the business world give their insights into the world of business.
iJobs Fashion
Senior Thermal Design Engineer - Dorset
£45000 - £50000 per annum + Bonus: Progressive Recruitment: Our client is reco...
Full Time Permanent Primary School SENCO Required
£28800 - £36000 per annum: Randstad Education London: Full time, permanent SEN...
Senior Employment Solicitor - Birmingham
Excellent Package: Austen Lloyd: This is a senior appointment with huge potent...
Teaching Programme Officer with Qualified Teacher Status
£28000 - £31500 per annum + benefits: Randstad Education Newcastle: Permanent ...
The price of pacifism
Jason Isaacs: Groupies, theatre bores and James Bond
Sealand: 'Micronation' or illegal fortress?
Legend of James Hunt has set Hollywood hearts racing
Macklemore: 'I don't have moderation'





Comments