Frills, flounces and French romantics take the place of the A-list

During the New York collections last month, designer Marc Jacobs declared fashion's love affair with celebrity to be on the wane. He promptly put his money where his mouth was by stripping his normally star-studded front row of the A-list contingent entirely. Just two days before the 2010 Oscar ceremony and the powers that be at Christian Dior beg to differ, clearly.

This was the first of the Paris heavyweights to show its forthcoming autumn/winter collection in the French fashion capital, the final destination of the fashion caravan. During a season in which famous faces have proved conspicuous by their absence, the fact that Charlize Theron, Jared Leto, Lou Doillon (actress and model daughter of Jane Birkin), Fanny Ardant and more were all in attendance only served to emphasise any bid for power.

And what of the clothes? In a nutshell: Dior designer John Galliano took the suitably grand Edwardian hunting theme that inspired him for his spring/summer haute couture collection shown in January and transformed it into a rather more accessible creature.

Sticking to a decidedly sludgy autumnal colour palette – olive, beige and all the shades of brown – the designer delivered cavalry coats in leather, tweed, tartan and fluffy mohair worn with jodhpurs and sky-high riding boots.

Merged with this was an 18th-century French libertine theme that is familiar Galliano territory: think slightly wanton, delicate, silk chiffon dresses printed with faded flowers and finished with cascading waterfall ruffles in palest sky blue, dusty rose and mint green and hand knits reminiscent of oversized bed jackets.

"Dior takes up the spirit of French romanticism and Mr Dior's beloved English riding tweeds," Galliano stated. "I was inspired by the drape, line and cut as well as the characters of that era."

More wanton women of a characteristically extreme nature made their way down Vivienne Westwood's catwalk. And more tailoring, tweeds and knitwear, too, for that matter. English heritage eroticised to the point almost of indecency is this designer's trademark, after all.

This time around, however, a more innocent fairy-tale mood was at play as unconventional principal boys and punk princesses appeared in everything from cornflower blue stockings and jaunty cropped jackets with gold epaulettes to quite the sweetest overblown cocktail dresses and gowns imaginable, emblazoned with proud-to-be-chintzy cabbage roses.

Plastic crowns and cartoon corsages in Crayola colours finished the designer's highly individual take on what we all might like to wear next autumn. At a time when so much fashion appears to be embracing the bland, this was truly a sight for sore eyes.

News
newsAnother week, another dress controversy on the internet
Life and Style
Marie had fake ID, in the name of Johanna Koch, after she evaded capture by the Nazis in wartime Berlin
historyOne woman's secret life as a Jew in wartime Berlin
News
news... and what your reaction to the creatures above says about you
News
Jihadi John
newsMonikers like 'Jihadi John' make the grim sound glamorous
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Telesales & Customer Service Executive - Call Centre Jobs

    £7 - £9 per hour: Recruitment Genius: Are you outgoing? Do you want to work in...

    Ashdown Group: Finance Manager - Covent Garden, central London - £45k - £55k

    £45000 - £55000 per annum + 30 days holiday: Ashdown Group: Finance Manager - ...

    Ashdown Group: Systems Administrator - Lancashire - £30,000

    £28000 - £30000 per annum: Ashdown Group: 3rd Line Support Engineer / Network ...

    Recruitment Genius: Graduate Web Developer

    £26000 - £33000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Web Developer is required to ...

    Day In a Page

    The difference between America and Israel? There isn’t one

    The difference between America and Israel? There isn’t one

    Netanyahu knows he can get away with anything in America, says Robert Fisk
    Families clubbing together to build their own affordable accommodation

    Do It Yourself approach to securing a new house

    Community land trusts marking a new trend for taking the initiative away from developers
    Head of WWF UK: We didn’t send Cameron to the Arctic to see green ideas freeze

    David Nussbaum: We didn’t send Cameron to the Arctic to see green ideas freeze

    The head of WWF UK remains sanguine despite the Government’s failure to live up to its pledges on the environment
    Author Kazuo Ishiguro on being inspired by shoot-outs and samurai

    Author Kazuo Ishiguro on being inspired by shoot-outs and samurai

    Set in a mythologised 5th-century Britain, ‘The Buried Giant’ is a strange beast
    With money, corruption and drugs, this monk fears Buddhism in Thailand is a ‘poisoned fruit’

    Money, corruption and drugs

    The monk who fears Buddhism in Thailand is a ‘poisoned fruit’
    America's first slavery museum established at Django Unchained plantation - 150 years after slavery outlawed

    150 years after it was outlawed...

    ... America's first slavery museum is established in Louisiana
    Kelly Clarkson: How I snubbed Simon Cowell and become a Grammy-winning superstar

    Kelly Clarkson: How I snubbed Simon Cowell and become a Grammy-winning superstar

    The first 'American Idol' winner on how she manages to remain her own woman – Jane Austen fascination and all
    Tony Oursler on exploring our uneasy relationship with technology with his new show

    You won't believe your eyes

    Tony Oursler's new show explores our uneasy relationship with technology. He's one of a growing number of artists with that preoccupation
    Ian Herbert: Peter Moores must go. He should never have been brought back to fail again

    Moores must go. He should never have been brought back to fail again

    The England coach leaves players to find solutions - which makes you wonder where he adds value, says Ian Herbert
    War with Isis: Fears that the looming battle for Mosul will unleash 'a million refugees'

    The battle for Mosul will unleash 'a million refugees'

    Aid agencies prepare for vast exodus following planned Iraqi offensive against the Isis-held city, reports Patrick Cockburn
    Yvette Cooper: We can't lose the election. There's too much on the line

    Yvette Cooper: We can't lose the election. There's too much on the line

    The shadow Home Secretary on fighting radical Islam, protecting children, and why anyone in Labour who's thinking beyond May must 'sort themselves out'
    A bad week for the Greens: Leader Natalie Bennett's 'car crash' radio interview is followed by Brighton council's failure to set a budget due to infighting

    It's not easy being Green

    After a bad week in which its leader had a public meltdown and its only city council couldn't agree on a budget vote, what next for the alternative party? It's over to Caroline Lucas to find out
    Gorillas nearly missed: BBC producers didn't want to broadcast Sir David Attenborough's famed Rwandan encounter

    Gorillas nearly missed

    BBC producers didn't want to broadcast Sir David Attenborough's famed Rwandan encounter
    Downton Abbey effect sees impoverished Italian nobles inspired to open their doors to paying guests for up to €650 a night

    The Downton Abbey effect

    Impoverished Italian nobles are opening their doors to paying guests, inspired by the TV drama
    China's wild panda numbers have increased by 17% since 2003, new census reveals

    China's wild panda numbers on the up

    New census reveals 17% since 2003