Our fashion experts say of what's new and interesting in fashion week this season

We are scouting fashion week this season across London, Milan, Paris and New York.

Our experts have their say on what they are looking forward the most this season:

Alexander Fury

Vaccarello. Versus. Versace.

Considering their mutual tastes for sexy, short, souped-up dresses, the aesthetic marriage of Italo-Belgian wunderkind Anthony Vaccarello and the Calabrian queen of cling Donatella Versace sounds like the start of a happy-ever-after fairytale. Vaccarello shows his Versus debut in New York on Sunday night. I'm expecting something tight, bright, and well worth the inevitable fight to get in.

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Anthony Vaccarello with model at the end of his show

Life after Normcore

The winter season was, for the most part, devoted to practicality, pragmatism and the seemingly novelty of normality - from Dior's city girl suiting to Miu Miu's nylon pack-a-macs. I succumbed and bought one. But I'm now aching to see something a touch more challenging.

 

Loewe love-in

After an acclaimed menswear presentation and with a capsule of women's accessories already doing brisk business, the end of this month brings JW Anderson's true Loewe litmus test: his first fully-fledged womenswear show for the Spanish leather goods house, at a bleary-eyed 9am slot on the Friday of Paris. We're perched on the edge of our reissued Loewe bean-bags with anticipation.

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Gossip 

Is a certain French former couture house about to lose its (creative) head? Is a long-overdue shake up in the Milanese status quo on the cards? And what will happen with Olivier Theyskens - Anna Wintour’s a fan, so his current unemployed status surely can’t be long-term? These are the kind of existential crises we occupy ourselves with while waiting for fashion shows to begin - no guarantee there’s any truth to the rumours though. 

Rebecca Gonsalves

Ashley Williams NewGen debut
The designer's fun, pop culture references have enlivened the Fashion East roster for three seasons, but now we're really looking forward to seeing the young designer's first solo show under the umbrella of NewGen.

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Designer Ashley Williams


Marchesa coming to London
Cool, edgy and exciting - London fashion is many things, but uber-glamorous isn't one of them. So a one-off return from red carpet aficionado Georgina Chapman's Marchesa label has the capital's glamour-pusses booking blow dries and manicures in anticipation of what will surely be a star-studded affair.

David Koma's first catwalk collection for Mugler
Georgia-born, London-based Koma's body-con aesthetic and sharp eye made him a perfect fit to modernise Mugler as the new artistic director. His well-received resort collection paid homage to the power label of the Eighties but updated it with a contemporary silhouette.

The Rick Owens rave-up
There's an effigy of the god of glunge - that's glamorous grunge - hanging outside Selfridges, and the department store will be taking the celebration a step further with a party til 4am during fashion week. Expect some bleary-eyed editors the next morning.

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Reality on the runway: steppers on the Rick Owens SS14 catwalk

Emma Akbareian

Opening Ceremony’s alternative fashion show

Fashion shows usually follow a fairly standard formula; models walking up and down a catwalk. However Opening Ceremony are set to mix things up a bit with their spring/summer collection being presented in the form of a play co-written by Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill which will feature a mix of actors and models.

Christopher Bailey’s new role at Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum is one of the headlining shows at London Fashion Week and this season will be the first collection from Christopher Bailey since he began his new role as both Chief Creative Officer and Chief Executive. We’re looking forward to seeing the effect, if any this has had on the creative direction of the brand.

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Miley Cyrus and Jeremy Scott

Jeremy Scott’s shows usually air on the side of controversial, his penchant for everything pop culture makes the news that he has recruited Miley Cyrus for his show not exactly surprising but is certain to make compulsive viewing.

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Miley Cyrus and Jeremy Scott at the VMAs

Meadham Kirchhoff’s open house

Adding to the usual theatrical atmosphere that surrounds a Meadham Kirchhoff show is this season’s open casting call for models. The duo is holding the casting at their East end studio next Saturday. The request that ‘typical model looks are not required’ will guarantee an interesting show.

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