From the hunt to the boudoir: Galliano's libertines for Dior

From the exhilaration of the hunt to the seduction of the boudoir, John Galliano's collection for autumn-winter for Christian Dior on Friday was inspired by 18th century libertines.

Picking up the theme of riding habits from his haute couture collection for summer, he built his show round cavalry coats and fitted hacking jackets over cropped jodphurs, with velvet riding hats or jockeys' flat caps.

He used lashings of supple leather in chocolate, burgundy and chestnut brown and soft suede, alongside classic English twills and tweeds, herring bone and Prince of Wales checks, so beloved of Mr. Dior.

There were also ample winter-warmer coats and casual belted jackets in charcoal and white mohair plaid and a chunky cream off-the-shoulder knit.

Set in juxtaposition to the strong masculine tailoring were romantic evening gowns and cocktail frocks, all ruffles, draped low backs and wispy fichu necklines, in dusky pastels like apricot and old rose, spangled with silver embroidery.

Their feminine fragility was heightened by the default footwear of suede or leather thigh boots, which could be glimpsed through the sheer silk chiffon swishy skirts.

In an unexpected twist he constructed one of his cocktail frocks from fluttering tiers of punched leather.

The thrust of the collection was encapsulated by the opening number, worn by Dior's model of the moment, Karlie Kloss, a voluminous chocolate leather cape over a delicate pale pink printed silk dress.

Mathematics and fashion would seem to be worlds apart, but not so, says Dai Fujiwara, who based his entire collection for Issey Miyake on a theory by French mathematician Henri Poincare, who died nearly 100 years ago.

Among the guests of honour was William Thurston of Cornell University who proved Poincare's conjecture that there are only eight geometric shapes in the universe, which are enough to create all three-dimensional forms.

Fujiwara put the theory into practice with multi-coloured ribbed knit scarves wound around the torso to form complicated tops, over black nylon shirred pants.

The structure of curvy jackets and waistcoats in black and white was accentuated by contrasting piping.

He played with volume with circular-cut cocoon coats in Harris tweed in burnt orange and fuschia, and puffy black quilted nylon coats with hems or collars twisted like rope as if into mathematical models.

Delicate dresses constructed from multi-layers of glazed ink black organdy with laser-cut stars twinkled like the night sky.

Mathematician Joel Lebowitz, 79, a winner of the Poincare prize from Rutgers University in Newark, New York, was delighted by the show: "It was lovely to see. It was abstract and mathematical."

Britain's eccentric grande dame of fashion Vivienne Westwood found inspiration for her "Prince Charming" collection in fairy tales by the Brothers Grimm and principle boys in pantomimes, traditionally always played by girls.

Her models all sported pencil moustaches on their upperlips along with red lipstick and some wore brightly coloured paper crowns and opaque blue tights.

But with strobe lighting and seats all on a level, only the front row will have had much of a view of the clothes, although accessories like a giant fake leopard tote bag and camouflage backpack and a white and tortoishell cat balanced on one shoulder stood out.

French designer Gaspard Yurkievich, who called his show "Wistful thinking" had a nostalgic, melancholic take on next winter, dominated by sombre shades of tobacco, moss and pine greens, spiced up with turmeric and orange.

His silhouette favoured jackets with leg'o'mutton sleeves and cropped pants or jodphurs - emerging as a strong shape for next season - unless they were bottom-skimming city shorts.

Central zips down the front or back, edged with ruffles, and flat bows added femininity.

For evening it was knotted and draped brown-gold lame accessoried with artful earrings like a single feather made from fox fur.

Voices
Hunted: A stag lies dead on Jura, where David Cameron holidays and has himself stalked deer
voicesThe Scotland I know is becoming a playground for the rich
News
Russell Brand has written a book of political analysis called Revolution
peopleFilm star says he is 'not interested in making money anymore'
Arts and Entertainment
Benedict Cumberbatch has refused to deny his involvement in the upcoming new Star Wars film
filmBenedict Cumberbatch reignites those Star Wars rumours
News
newsMcKamey Manor says 'there is no escape until the tour is completed'
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
Arts and Entertainment
Jessica Chastain during an interview in Los Angeles.
filmsOscar hopeful Jessica Chastain reveals the secret to her breakthrough success
News
people

Britain First criticised for using actress's memory to draw attention to their 'hate-filled home page'

News
news
Life and Style
Meow! ... Again, Kim Kardashian goes for a sexy Halloween costume, wrapping her body with a latex catsuit and high heeled knee boots
fashionFrom Heidi Klum to Kim Kardashian
News
news

Emergency call 'started off dumb, but got pretty serious'

Arts and Entertainment
On The Apprentice, “serious” left the room many moons ago and yet still we watch
tv

Greatest mystery about the hit BBC1 show is how it continues to be made at all, writes Grace Dent

News
i100
Arts and Entertainment
JK Rowling is releasing a new Harry Potter story about Dolores Umbridge
booksChristmas comes early for wizard fans
Arts and Entertainment
filmsOculus Rift offers breathtakingly realistic simulation of zero gravity
Sport
footballAccording to revelations from Sergio Aguero's new biography
Life and Style
tech

Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Business Analyst - Surrey - Permanent - Up to £50k DOE

    £40000 - £50000 Per Annum Excellent benefits: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd:...

    ***ASP.NET Developer - Cheshire - £35k - Permanent***

    £30000 - £35000 Per Annum Excellent benefits: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd:...

    ***Solutions Architect*** - Brighton - £40k - Permanent

    £35000 - £40000 Per Annum Excellent benefits: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd:...

    Senior Research Fellow in Gender, Food and Resilient Communities

    £47,334 - £59,058 per annum: Coventry University: The Centre for Agroecology, ...

    Day In a Page

    Wilko Johnson, now the bad news: musician splits with manager after police investigate assault claims

    Wilko Johnson, now the bad news

    Former Dr Feelgood splits with manager after police investigate assault claims
    Mark Udall: The Democrat Senator with a fight on his hands ahead of the US midterm elections

    Mark Udall: The Democrat Senator with a fight on his hands

    The Senator for Colorado is for gay rights, for abortion rights – and in the Republicans’ sights as they threaten to take control of the Senate next month
    New discoveries show more contact between far-flung prehistoric humans than had been thought

    New discoveries show more contact between far-flung prehistoric humans than had been thought

    Evidence found of contact between Easter Islanders and South America
    Cerys Matthews reveals how her uncle taped 150 interviews for a biography of Dylan Thomas

    Cerys Matthews on Dylan Thomas

    The singer reveals how her uncle taped 150 interviews for a biography of the famous Welsh poet
    DIY is not fun and we've finally realised this as a nation

    Homebase closures: 'DIY is not fun'

    Homebase has announced the closure of one in four of its stores. Nick Harding, who never did know his awl from his elbow, is glad to see the back of DIY
    The Battle of the Five Armies: Air New Zealand releases new Hobbit-inspired in-flight video

    Air New Zealand's wizard in-flight video

    The airline has released a new Hobbit-inspired clip dubbed "The most epic safety video ever made"
    Pumpkin spice is the flavour of the month - but can you stomach the sweetness?

    Pumpkin spice is the flavour of the month

    The combination of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg (and no actual pumpkin), now flavours everything from lattes to cream cheese in the US
    11 best sonic skincare brushes

    11 best sonic skincare brushes

    Forget the flannel - take skincare to the next level by using your favourite cleanser with a sonic facial brush
    Paul Scholes column: I'm not worried about Manchester United's defence - Chelsea test can be the making of Phil Jones and Marcos Rojo

    Paul Scholes column

    I'm not worried about Manchester United's defence - Chelsea test can be the making of Jones and Rojo
    Frank Warren: Boxing has its problems but in all my time I've never seen a crooked fight

    Frank Warren: Boxing has its problems but in all my time I've never seen a crooked fight

    While other sports are stalked by corruption, we are an easy target for the critics
    Jamie Roberts exclusive interview: 'I'm a man of my word – I'll stay in Paris'

    Jamie Roberts: 'I'm a man of my word – I'll stay in Paris'

    Wales centre says he’s not coming home but is looking to establish himself at Racing Métro
    How could three tourists have been battered within an inch of their lives by a burglar in a plush London hotel?

    A crime that reveals London's dark heart

    How could three tourists have been battered within an inch of their lives by a burglar in a plush London hotel?
    Meet 'Porridge' and 'Vampire': Chinese state TV is offering advice for citizens picking a Western moniker

    Lost in translation: Western monikers

    Chinese state TV is offering advice for citizens picking a Western moniker. Simon Usborne, who met a 'Porridge' and a 'Vampire' while in China, can see the problem
    Handy hacks that make life easier: New book reveals how to rid your inbox of spam, protect your passwords and amplify your iPhone

    Handy hacks that make life easier

    New book reveals how to rid your email inbox of spam, protect your passwords and amplify your iPhone with a loo-roll
    KidZania lets children try their hands at being a firefighter, doctor or factory worker for the day

    KidZania: It's a small world

    The new 'educational entertainment experience' in London's Shepherd's Bush will allow children to try out the jobs that are usually undertaken by adults, including firefighter, doctor or factory worker