From the hunt to the boudoir: Galliano's libertines for Dior

From the exhilaration of the hunt to the seduction of the boudoir, John Galliano's collection for autumn-winter for Christian Dior on Friday was inspired by 18th century libertines.

Picking up the theme of riding habits from his haute couture collection for summer, he built his show round cavalry coats and fitted hacking jackets over cropped jodphurs, with velvet riding hats or jockeys' flat caps.

He used lashings of supple leather in chocolate, burgundy and chestnut brown and soft suede, alongside classic English twills and tweeds, herring bone and Prince of Wales checks, so beloved of Mr. Dior.

There were also ample winter-warmer coats and casual belted jackets in charcoal and white mohair plaid and a chunky cream off-the-shoulder knit.

Set in juxtaposition to the strong masculine tailoring were romantic evening gowns and cocktail frocks, all ruffles, draped low backs and wispy fichu necklines, in dusky pastels like apricot and old rose, spangled with silver embroidery.

Their feminine fragility was heightened by the default footwear of suede or leather thigh boots, which could be glimpsed through the sheer silk chiffon swishy skirts.

In an unexpected twist he constructed one of his cocktail frocks from fluttering tiers of punched leather.

The thrust of the collection was encapsulated by the opening number, worn by Dior's model of the moment, Karlie Kloss, a voluminous chocolate leather cape over a delicate pale pink printed silk dress.

Mathematics and fashion would seem to be worlds apart, but not so, says Dai Fujiwara, who based his entire collection for Issey Miyake on a theory by French mathematician Henri Poincare, who died nearly 100 years ago.

Among the guests of honour was William Thurston of Cornell University who proved Poincare's conjecture that there are only eight geometric shapes in the universe, which are enough to create all three-dimensional forms.

Fujiwara put the theory into practice with multi-coloured ribbed knit scarves wound around the torso to form complicated tops, over black nylon shirred pants.

The structure of curvy jackets and waistcoats in black and white was accentuated by contrasting piping.

He played with volume with circular-cut cocoon coats in Harris tweed in burnt orange and fuschia, and puffy black quilted nylon coats with hems or collars twisted like rope as if into mathematical models.

Delicate dresses constructed from multi-layers of glazed ink black organdy with laser-cut stars twinkled like the night sky.

Mathematician Joel Lebowitz, 79, a winner of the Poincare prize from Rutgers University in Newark, New York, was delighted by the show: "It was lovely to see. It was abstract and mathematical."

Britain's eccentric grande dame of fashion Vivienne Westwood found inspiration for her "Prince Charming" collection in fairy tales by the Brothers Grimm and principle boys in pantomimes, traditionally always played by girls.

Her models all sported pencil moustaches on their upperlips along with red lipstick and some wore brightly coloured paper crowns and opaque blue tights.

But with strobe lighting and seats all on a level, only the front row will have had much of a view of the clothes, although accessories like a giant fake leopard tote bag and camouflage backpack and a white and tortoishell cat balanced on one shoulder stood out.

French designer Gaspard Yurkievich, who called his show "Wistful thinking" had a nostalgic, melancholic take on next winter, dominated by sombre shades of tobacco, moss and pine greens, spiced up with turmeric and orange.

His silhouette favoured jackets with leg'o'mutton sleeves and cropped pants or jodphurs - emerging as a strong shape for next season - unless they were bottom-skimming city shorts.

Central zips down the front or back, edged with ruffles, and flat bows added femininity.

For evening it was knotted and draped brown-gold lame accessoried with artful earrings like a single feather made from fox fur.

Life and Style
ebookA wonderful selection of salads, starters and mains featuring venison, grouse and other game
Life and Style
Child's play: letting young people roam outdoors directly contradicts the current climate
lifeHow much independence should children have?
Arts and Entertainment
Tycoons' text: Warren Buffett and Bill Gates both cite John Brookes' 'Business Adventures' as their favourite book
booksFind out why America's richest men are reading John Brookes
Arts and Entertainment
<p>Troubled actor Robert Downey Jr cements his comeback from drug problems by bagging the lead role in Iron Man. Two further films follow</p>
filmRobert Downey Jr named Hollywood's highest paid actor for second year running
Life and Style
Dale Bolinger arranged to meet the girl via a fetish website
Sign here, please: Magna Carta Island
propertyYours for a cool £4m
Life and Style
The Commonwealth flag flies outside Westminster Abbey in central London
Arts and Entertainment
Struggling actors who scrape a living working in repertory theatres should get paid a 'living wage', Sir Ian McKellen has claimed
Skye McCole Bartusiak's mother said she didn't use drink or drugs
peopleActress was known for role in Mel Gibson film The Patriot
Arts and Entertainment
tvWebsite will allow you to watch all 522 shows on-demand
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Graduate Web Developer

    £18000 - £28000 Per Annum: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd: Excellent opportun...

    Graduate Database Developer (SQL)

    £18000 - £28000 Per Annum: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd: Excellent opportun...

    Community / Stakeholder Manager - Solar PV

    £50000 - £60000 Per Annum: The Green Recruitment Company: The Green Recruitmen...

    Senior Marketing Executive (B2B/B2C) - London

    £32000 - £35000 per annum + benefits: Ashdown Group: Senior Marketing Executiv...

    Day In a Page

    Some are reformed drug addicts. Some are single mums. All are on benefits. But now these so-called 'scroungers’ are fighting back

    The 'scroungers’ fight back

    The welfare claimants battling to alter stereotypes
    Amazing video shows Nasa 'flame extinguishment experiment' in action

    Fireballs in space

    Amazing video shows Nasa's 'flame extinguishment experiment' in action
    A Bible for billionaires

    A Bible for billionaires

    Find out why America's richest men are reading John Brookes
    Paranoid parenting is on the rise - and our children are suffering because of it

    Paranoid parenting is on the rise

    And our children are suffering because of it
    For sale: Island where the Magna Carta was sealed

    Magna Carta Island goes on sale

    Yours for a cool £4m
    Phone hacking scandal special report: The slide into crime at the 'News of the World'

    The hacker's tale: the slide into crime at the 'News of the World'

    Glenn Mulcaire was jailed for six months for intercepting phone messages. James Hanning tells his story in a new book. This is an extract
    We flinch, but there are degrees of paedophilia

    We flinch, but there are degrees of paedophilia

    Child abusers are not all the same, yet the idea of treating them differently in relation to the severity of their crimes has somehow become controversial
    The truth about conspiracy theories is that some require considering

    The truth about conspiracy theories is that some require considering

    For instance, did Isis kill the Israeli teenagers to trigger a war, asks Patrick Cockburn
    Alistair Carmichael: 'The UK as a whole is greater than the sum of its parts'

    Alistair Carmichael: 'The UK as a whole is greater than the sum of its parts'

    Meet the man who doesn't want to go down in history as the country's last Scottish Secretary
    Legoland Windsor's master model-makers reveal the tricks of their trade (including how to stop the kids wrecking your Eiffel Tower)

    Meet the people who play with Lego for a living

    They are the master builders: Lego's crack team of model-makers, who have just glued down the last of 650,000 bricks as they recreate Paris in Windsor. Susie Mesure goes behind the scenes
    The 20 best days out for the summer holidays: From Spitfires to summer ferry sailings

    20 best days out for the summer holidays

    From summer ferry sailings in Tyne and Wear and adventure days at Bear Grylls Survival Academy to Spitfires at the Imperial War Museum Duxford and bog-snorkelling at the World Alternative Games...
    Open-air theatres: If all the world is a stage, then everyone gets in on the act

    All the wood’s a stage

    Open-air productions are the cue for better box-office receipts, new audiences, more interesting artistic challenges – and a picnic
    Rand Paul is a Republican with an eye on the world

    Rupert Cornwell: A Republican with an eye on the world

    Rand Paul is laying out his presidential stall by taking on his party's disastrous record on foreign policy
    Self-preservation society: Pickles are moving from the side of your plate to become the star dish

    Self-preservation society

    Pickles are moving from the side of your plate to become the star dish
    Generation gap opens a career sinkhole

    Britons live ever longer, but still society persists in glorifying youth

    We are living longer but considered 'past it' younger, the reshuffle suggests. There may be trouble ahead, says DJ Taylor