Ghesquiere dazzles for Balenciaga

Nicolas Ghesquiere sent out a dazzling ready-to-wear collection for next winter for Balenciaga on Thursday in the elegant salons of the Hotel Crillon.

The natural sunlight streaming in through the French windows and the sparkling white tiled floor only served to enhance his core palette of luminous white, beige and grey.

Models with strict chignons in the nape of their necks and day-glo eyebrow make-up presented his Samurai quilted sleeveless jackets over straight skirts and dress and jacket ensembles, in subtle combinations like sky blue with a hint of orange.

He enlivened black pencil pants with contrasting hems in bright colours and also played around with a mirror effect, sprinkling grey stars on a green skirt and green ones on its grey knit top.

His finale of futuristic short duvet coats came in brilliant white or a print from museum posters for art exhibitions.

Actress Charlotte Gainsbourg, face of the house perfume and muse to the designer, was among the front row celebrities applauding the collection, which American Vogue's editor Anna Wintour hailed as "Great" as she headed for her limousine outside, with an unaccustomed big smile.

Fans of Indian designer Manish Arora disappointed by his more mainstream, commercial collection last October will welcome his return to his usual rumbustious form.

His show later Thursday was a dizzying romp through the rainbow, jumbling together vibrant colours with patchworks of traditional Indian handcrafted embroidery, from twinkling Rajastani mirror work to cobwebs of filigree gold thread.

Art Deco was a key inspiration for next winter, seen in geometric patterns and stripes, bristling with sequins, in eye-watering combinations of turquoise, lime and pink, or more subtle gunmetal and gold.

Models sported wigs with Eton crop fringes in fluorescent yellow over their dresses with plunging necklines, dropped waists and bloused tops borrowed from the 1920s.

Shapes were bold, like his Samurai warrior armour influenced quilted coats with big shoulders and stiff short capes and mini puffballs which morphed into clingy midi skirts.

In contrast Japan's Hiroko Koshino confined herself almost entirely to black for a capsule catwalk collection of impeccably cut variations on her central source of inspiration: the kimono.

With her models' curious knotted headgear she evoked the Old Silk road, comparing the paranjas still worn in Uzbekistan today with the costumes once worn by peasant farmers all over Japan.

Quilted jackets have also been worn since time immemorial, with tasuki or little strings used to keep the sleeves dry while planting rice in the paddyfields.

Her modern versions looked perfectly adapted for urban living with their distinctive details, like the curvy seams puckering the back of a coat, or the ruffle building up a shoulder, or elbow length sleeves constructed from stiffened black satin ribbon.

The runway show was staged in the middle of an exhibition of Koshino's work with textiles. Bales of fabric were hung from the ceiling, giving a rare opportunity to feel and examine close-up as well as admire the resulting designs made up on tailor's dummies.

Korean designer Lie Sang Bong called his show "Big city lights" but his aggressive warrior women looked more kitted out to stage urban warfare than hit the club scene.

They strode down the catwalk in spike-heeled biker's boots and gauntlets, with armour-plated corsets and big shoulders, swinging motorcycle crash helmets.

But the crash helmets were in girly day-glo pink, or decorated with mother-of-pearl studs, while the corsets were teamed with fur mini skirts and tufts of fur sprouted from the stilettos.

Life and Style
A monstrous idea? Body transplants might no longer be science fiction
Science An Italian neurosurgeon believes so - and it's not quite as implausible as it sounds, says Steve Connor
Sport
Demba Ba (right) celebrates after Besiktas win on penalties
footballThere was no happy return to the Ataturk Stadium, where the Reds famously won Champions League
Arts and Entertainment
Natural beauty: Aidan Turner stars in the new series of Poldark
arts + ents
News
Mia Freedman, editorial director of the Mamamia website, reads out a tweet she was sent.
arts + ents
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
News
people
Arts and Entertainment
The write stuff: masters of story-telling James Joyce, left, and Thomas Hardy
arts + ents...begging to differ, John Walsh can't even begin to number the ways
News
Image from a flyer at the CPAC event where Nigel Farage will be speaking
news
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Bookkeeper

    £23000 - £26000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This small, friendly, proactive...

    Recruitment Genius: Photographic Event Crew

    £14500 - £22800 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is a fantastic opportunity...

    Recruitment Genius: Software Developers - .NET / ASP.NET / WebAPI / JavaScript

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: A Software Developer is required to join a lea...

    Austen Lloyd: Corporate Tax Solicitor - City

    Excellent Salary: Austen Lloyd: A first rate opportunity to join a top ranking...

    Day In a Page

    HIV pill: Scientists hail discovery of 'game-changer' that cuts the risk of infection among gay men by 86%

    Scientists hail daily pill that protects against HIV infection

    Breakthrough in battle against global scourge – but will the NHS pay for it?
    How we must adjust our lifestyles to nature: Welcome to the 'Anthropocene', the human epoch

    Time to play God

    Welcome to the 'Anthropocene', the human epoch where we may need to redefine nature itself
    MacGyver returns, but with a difference: Handyman hero of classic 1980s TV series to be recast as a woman

    MacGyver returns, but with a difference

    Handyman hero of classic 1980s TV series to be recast as a woman
    Tunnel renaissance: Why cities are hiding roads down in the ground

    Tunnel renaissance

    Why cities are hiding roads underground
    'Backstreet Boys - Show 'Em What You're Made Of': An affectionate look at five middle-aged men

    Boys to men

    The Backstreet Boys might be middle-aged, married and have dodgy knees, but a heartfelt documentary reveals they’re not going gently into pop’s good night
    Crufts 2015: Should foreign dogs be allowed to compete?

    Crufts 2015

    Should foreign dogs be allowed to compete?
    10 best projectors

    How to make your home cinema more cinematic: 10 best projectors

    Want to recreate the big-screen experience in your sitting room? IndyBest sizes up gadgets to form your film-watching
    Manchester City 1 Barcelona 2 player ratings: Luis Suarez? Lionel Messi? Joe Hart? Who was the star man?

    Manchester City vs Barcelona player ratings

    Luis Suarez? Lionel Messi? Joe Hart? Who was the star man at the Etihad?
    Arsenal vs Monaco: Monaco - the making of Gunners' manager Arsene Wenger

    Monaco: the making of Wenger

    Jack Pitt-Brooke speaks to former players and learns the Frenchman’s man-management has always been one of his best skills
    Cricket World Cup 2015: Chris Gayle - the West Indies' enigma lives up to his reputation

    Chris Gayle: The West Indies' enigma

    Some said the game's eternal rebel was washed up. As ever, he proved he writes the scripts by producing a blistering World Cup innings
    In Ukraine a dark world of hybrid warfare and murky loyalties prevails

    In Ukraine a dark world of hybrid warfare

    This war in the shadows has been going on since the fall of Mr Yanukovych
    'Birdman' and 'Bullets Over Broadway': Homage or plagiarism?

    Homage or plagiarism?

    'Birdman' shares much DNA with Woody Allen's 'Bullets Over Broadway'
    Broadchurch ends as damp squib not even David Tennant can revive

    A damp squib not even David Tennant can revive

    Broadchurch, Series 2 finale, review
    A Koi carp breeding pond, wall-mounted iPads and a bathroom with a 'wellness' shower: inside the mansion of Germany's 'Bishop of Bling'

    Inside the mansion of Germany's 'Bishop of Bling'

    A Koi carp breeding pond, wall-mounted iPads and a bathroom with a 'wellness' shower