Models at the James Long catwalk show at the Hospital Club, London


It was a case of Divine inspiration for James Long's autumn/winter collection, quite literally as the drag performer's portrait graced an intarsia knit jumper - hand crafted by Long's own mother.

Reference was paid to the films of John Waters - of which Divine was a recurring star - and the director's personal style too, in the form of dissected tropical print shirts replete with pink flamingos, a bird which appeared on knitwear too, surrounded by oil-spill like plastic marquetry.

Long used shades of brown, mustard and bottle green, instead experimenting with varied textures to build another dimension to a largely tonal collection. Rubberised printed plaid macs, bugle bead adorned knitwear and bronze jacquard elasticated cuff trousers were accessorised with perspex and horse hair monk strap shoes - the fruit of a collaboration with Kurt Geiger.