French jewelry brands including Chanel Joaillerie and Mellerio dits Meller presented their collections for the first time as part of the official haute couture calendar in Paris January 28.

Nature inspired most of the collections, with Van Cleef & Arpels going for a butterfly theme and Chaumet opting for bee motifs.

Chanel opted for a retrospective of jewelry designed by Gabrielle Chanel from 1932 onwards, with some of the jewelry classics serving as models for contemporary pieces. The brand also drew on broader historic references, including the founder's favorite flower, the camellia, for inspiration. But the latter was not the only natural theme - wheat emerged as one of the luxury label's most dominant motifs.

Mellerio dits Meller also got inspired by one of the brand's historic accomplishments, a bejeweled bouquet of flowers, which was part of an exhibition in Paris in 1855. Each of the different flowers served as models for a new collection of finger rings, called Fleurs des Champs, which will be available in rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and purple and pink sapphires.

Contrary to what the organizing body of Paris haute couture week announced, Cartier and Dior Joaillerie were not part of this official haute joaillerie day. Dior told Relaxnews that the brand's jewelry presentation was postponed to March, reasons remained unclear.

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