Like a strolling Stone Moschino seeks inspiration in the Casino
The third day of the spring 2013 shows in Milan confirmed several new trends that have been eddying along the catwalks since the bi-annual collections kicked off in New York last week.
That the Sixties are back was the main message at the Moschino show yesterday, while Etro looked to Japan for inspiration – just as Prada did on Thursday night. "Colour played a vital role alongside our signature black and white looks," Moschino's creative director Rosella Jardini explained after the event. "But I used these in different proportions – shorter. And for the first time, we used silver, not gold."
Double-breasted, collarless pea coats, shift dresses and mini-skirts worn with boxy jackets – all picked out in graphic monochrome – were pure Twiggy and Carnaby Street, and there were further nods to that era in oversized enamel buttons and mirror beads. Outerwear and tailoring was reminiscent of Andre Courreges' space-age separates.
There was a dash of Seventies too, with hippyish white broderie dresses – one all the way to the floor – made modern and not too prim by the giant cut-out heart shapes. Flower power came from technicolour garden florals, which were realised in 3D through retro beading.
Flowers also featured in Veronica Etro's collection for her family label, as hand-painted flora and fauna referenced lush Orientalist paintings and Japanese vases. They climbed in curlicues up the sleeves of crisp white blazers, and blossomed on silk blouses and kaftans. Kimono jackets, obi belts and samurai collars were co-opted into a collection that blended the sartorial asceticism of the East with the hyper-femininity more usually associated with Italian designers, and Ms Etro used her floral print to create what she called a "modern paisley".
Despite his outburst earlier in the week about changes to the fashion week schedule, Roberto Cavalli seemed in high spirits when he turned up (with his German Shepherd, Lupo) for his diffusion line show yesterday. The Just Cavalli collection referenced the Mediterranean in aquatic prints and shades that decorated energetic pieces perfect for the youthful bon viveurs who buy this label; baseball jackets, distressed denim, leggings, lace shorts and pleated silk miniskirts. Other trends that emerged in New York and London and have been consolidated in Milan are dungarees, given a Seventies flavour at Moschino; tunics worn with slim-fitting trousers, seen at Gucci and Etro; and sunshine yellow, present both at Moschino and at Etro, where an E110 goddess gown closed the show. Finally, actress Sharon Stone is an unforeseen trend in her own right. Not only was she the inspiration behind Julien Macdonald's collection in London last week, Stone has also been on Rosella Jardini's mind at Moschino, who cited the her role in Casino as a main reference, and she made an appearance at the opening of the new Cavalli boutique in Milan last night.
Her infamous white ensemble from Basic Instinct chimes perfectly with the trends unveiled this week, but just be careful how your cross your legs should you dare to emulate it.
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