London Collections: Men: Sarah Burton's Alexander McQueen collection takes inspiration from street photography and JW Anderson's heels clog up catwalk

Show summoned some of the menace synonymous with founder's name

Fashion Editor

A Maverick Eye. That’s the title of a tome chronicling the street photography of John Deakin, an inspiration for Sarah Burton’s autumn/winter 2014 Alexander McQueen menswear collection.

The truly maverick eyes of  London Collections: Men this season belong to three designers: Craig Green, whose MAN show on Monday was a highlight; the young Irish designer seen as London fashion’s next big brand in the making, JW Anderson; and Sarah Burton. Over the past 48 hours they are the mavericks who have elicited applause, annoyance and much heated debate.

Burton is the most established: the McQueen label has just turned 20, and its namesake founder’s aesthetic found fertile ground in both men’s and womenswear. Burton staged her show in a disused church, summoning some of the menace synonymous with McQueen’s name. Bauhaus boomed about Bela Lugosi on the soundtrack and her models flocked out frocked-up as Frankensteins, complete with lug-soled platform boots. Despite patchworks in gold lamé and lavish embroideries, the results never felt overly rich, or complicated, even when Deakin’s imagery was digitally printed and woven into tailoring.

Oddly, Burton’s hyped-up crepe soles found a reflection in the work of JW Anderson. Luxury goods behemoth LVMH purchased a stake in his business in September, the fruits of which could be felt in a refinement of quality, an expansion of range and a focus on accessories.

This player is used within article copy as first element. Default size is 630w but FC code uses it for 460w article layout.

If Burton’s platforms referenced Goth subculture and street-style, Anderson’s aims were loftier. Inspired by portraits of aristocrats, those elevated heels placed Anderson’s men, cloaked and cravatted in abstract takes on 18th-century attire, on literal podiatric pedestals.

Rather than kings, for many, Anderson’s shoes rang of the emperor’s new clothes, a gimmick for gimmickry’s sake. Those clodhoppers also acted as distraction from a collection that was straightforward, often saleable, frequently covetable. At least when you dissected the outfits, and discarded a few.

 

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Junior Web Designer - Client Liaison

    £6 per hour: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity to join a gro...

    Recruitment Genius: Service Delivery Manager

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: A Service Delivery Manager is required to join...

    Recruitment Genius: Massage Therapist / Sports Therapist

    £12000 - £24000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A opportunity has arisen for a ...

    Ashdown Group: Practice Accountant - Bournemouth - £38,000

    £32000 - £38000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A successful accountancy practice in...

    Day In a Page

    The saffron censorship that governs India: Why national pride and religious sentiment trump freedom of expression

    The saffron censorship that governs India

    Zareer Masani reveals why national pride and religious sentiment trump freedom of expression
    Prince Charles' 'black spider' letters to be published 'within weeks'

    Prince Charles' 'black spider' letters to be published 'within weeks'

    Supreme Court rules Dominic Grieve's ministerial veto was invalid
    Distressed Zayn Malik fans are cutting themselves - how did fandom get so dark?

    How did fandom get so dark?

    Grief over Zayn Malik's exit from One Direction seemed amusing until stories of mass 'cutting' emerged. Experts tell Gillian Orr the distress is real, and the girls need support
    The galaxy collisions that shed light on unseen parallel Universe

    The cosmic collisions that have shed light on unseen parallel Universe

    Dark matter study gives scientists insight into mystery of space
    The Swedes are adding a gender-neutral pronoun to their dictionary

    Swedes introduce gender-neutral pronoun

    Why, asks Simon Usborne, must English still struggle awkwardly with the likes of 's/he' and 'they'?
    Disney's mega money-making formula: 'Human' remakes of cartoon classics are part of a lucrative, long-term creative plan

    Disney's mega money-making formula

    'Human' remakes of cartoon classics are part of a lucrative, long-term creative plan
    Lobster has gone mainstream with supermarket bargains for £10 or less - but is it any good?

    Lobster has gone mainstream

    Anthea Gerrie, raised on meaty specimens from the waters around Maine, reveals how to cook up an affordable feast
    Easter 2015: 14 best decorations

    14 best Easter decorations

    Get into the Easter spirit with our pick of accessories, ornaments and tableware
    Paul Scholes column: Gareth Bale would be a perfect fit at Manchester United and could turn them into serious title contenders next season

    Paul Scholes column

    Gareth Bale would be a perfect fit at Manchester United and could turn them into serious title contenders next season
    Inside the Kansas greenhouses where Monsanto is 'playing God' with the future of the planet

    The future of GM

    The greenhouses where Monsanto 'plays God' with the future of the planet
    Britain's mild winters could be numbered: why global warming is leaving UK chillier

    Britain's mild winters could be numbered

    Gulf Stream is slowing down faster than ever, scientists say
    Government gives £250,000 to Independent appeal

    Government gives £250,000 to Independent appeal

    Donation brings total raised by Homeless Veterans campaign to at least £1.25m
    Oh dear, the most borrowed book at Bank of England library doesn't inspire confidence

    The most borrowed book at Bank of England library? Oh dear

    The book's fifth edition is used for Edexcel exams
    Cowslips vs honeysuckle: The hunt for the UK’s favourite wildflower

    Cowslips vs honeysuckle

    It's the hunt for UK’s favourite wildflower
    Child abuse scandal: Did a botched blackmail attempt by South African intelligence help Cyril Smith escape justice?

    Did a botched blackmail attempt help Cyril Smith escape justice?

    A fresh twist reveals the Liberal MP was targeted by the notorious South African intelligence agency Boss