London Collections: Men: Sarah Burton's Alexander McQueen collection takes inspiration from street photography and JW Anderson's heels clog up catwalk
Show summoned some of the menace synonymous with founder's name
A Maverick Eye. That’s the title of a tome chronicling the street photography of John Deakin, an inspiration for Sarah Burton’s autumn/winter 2014 Alexander McQueen menswear collection.
The truly maverick eyes of London Collections: Men this season belong to three designers: Craig Green, whose MAN show on Monday was a highlight; the young Irish designer seen as London fashion’s next big brand in the making, JW Anderson; and Sarah Burton. Over the past 48 hours they are the mavericks who have elicited applause, annoyance and much heated debate.
Burton is the most established: the McQueen label has just turned 20, and its namesake founder’s aesthetic found fertile ground in both men’s and womenswear. Burton staged her show in a disused church, summoning some of the menace synonymous with McQueen’s name. Bauhaus boomed about Bela Lugosi on the soundtrack and her models flocked out frocked-up as Frankensteins, complete with lug-soled platform boots. Despite patchworks in gold lamé and lavish embroideries, the results never felt overly rich, or complicated, even when Deakin’s imagery was digitally printed and woven into tailoring.
Oddly, Burton’s hyped-up crepe soles found a reflection in the work of JW Anderson. Luxury goods behemoth LVMH purchased a stake in his business in September, the fruits of which could be felt in a refinement of quality, an expansion of range and a focus on accessories.
If Burton’s platforms referenced Goth subculture and street-style, Anderson’s aims were loftier. Inspired by portraits of aristocrats, those elevated heels placed Anderson’s men, cloaked and cravatted in abstract takes on 18th-century attire, on literal podiatric pedestals.
Rather than kings, for many, Anderson’s shoes rang of the emperor’s new clothes, a gimmick for gimmickry’s sake. Those clodhoppers also acted as distraction from a collection that was straightforward, often saleable, frequently covetable. At least when you dissected the outfits, and discarded a few.
Life & Style blogs
iPhone 7 (or iPhone 6S) leaked pictures show similarities to older model — but Apple is fixing the biggest issue of all
The face of fertility: why do men find women who are near ovulation more attractive?
'Help me I'm trapped in a factory' messages keep being found on bottles of vitamin water
Google has set its terrifying, dreaming image robots on the public
What do the emojis on Snapchat mean?
- 1 Michelle Watt's father says TV presenter killed herself because she was in constant pain
- 2 Nathan Collier: Montana man inspired by same-sex marriage ruling requests right to wed two wives
- 3 'Help me I'm trapped in a factory' messages keep being found on bottles of vitamin water
- 4 North Korean defector flees to Finland 'with evidence of chemical testing on humans'
- 5 Greek debt crisis: The photograph that conveys the despair of Greece's elderly
£15000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: To support their continued grow...
£22000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: They are the go-to company for ...
Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This is an opportunity to join the UK's leadin...
Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This caravan dealership are currently recruiti...