London Fashion Week begins with a glance back

Collections from Topshop Unique, Biba and Jaeger swung on to the catwalk yesterday as London Fashion Week gave an indication of the styles that will surface on the high street and in boutiques by the end of the year.

Topshop's Unique collection – a higher priced, design led range launched two years ago – suggests autumn/winter 2008 will see the British fashion follower dressed in a mix of warm, loosely structured tailoring – oversized, Eighties style – and sweet chiffon dresses that might have been overly girlish were it not for the restrained, and very soft, colours.

Earlier in the day, Biba showed its collection for a second season under its creative director, Hector Castro. There were nods to Biba's Sixties and Seventies heritage, but these were expressed more through a decadent mood than literal reworkings of vintage looks.

The evening dresses were a high point. Although they didn't offer anything radically new, tiered dresses in black and peacock silk, and a raspberry wool shift with tapestry embellishment reminiscent of Klimt, looked suitably glamorous.

Keep an eye on the Independent's fashion blog for the latest London Fashion Week news