Mannish silhouettes and pretty prints make for a truly Stella show

 

It was the turn of Stella McCartney to show on the Paris catwalk yesterday at the impressively grand Opéra Garnier and with father, Sir Paul, as always, on the front row. It's 10 years since McCartney joined forces with the Gucci Group that today owns 50 per cent of her business (the other 50 per cent is in her name), and she has now found her stride.

A relaxed attitude was achieved by basing at least some of the collection on a masculine silhouette: roomy jumpsuits, a chunky sweater in shades of red and strong-shouldered tailored jackets were all borrowed from menswear. So, too, were some of the prettiest prints seen in Paris so far. Paisleys – prevalent across the board for next season – polka dots, diamonds and flowers were of the sort that might normally grace a gentleman's silk dressing gown or cravat. They looked great across shirt-waisters, feather-light trousers and – a more overtly feminine flourish – body-skimming mini-dresses with undulating embroidered edges. The latter were fused with hi-tech sportswear fabrics as were signature vintage lingerie-inspired designs.

McCartney is one of the few designers who refuses to work with fur, feathers or even leather, yet her accessories are successful nonetheless. With that in mind, the Stella McCartney customer will doubtless be more than happy with organic cotton bags dangling from brass chains, padded scuba clutches with a sculpted wave detail, barely there strappy sandals with stiletto heels and – for those who prefer their footwear flat – super-cute pool shoes.

Last month it was announced that the British designer, Giles Deacon, would be leaving his position as creative director of Emanuel Ungaro. Ungaro CEO Jeffry Aronsson confirmed at the time that the decision to split was a mutual one. Regardless of the reasons for the change, Ungaro is clearly struggling; the house has been through no fewer than six designers in the same number of years. Its forthcoming collection reflected "the work of the design team" – and it showed. It was not only lacking in direction but also had little of the opulence for which this once grand fashion name is known.

Emanuel Ungaro retired in 2005 and the house was sold to internet entrepreneur Asim Abdullah, who famously employed Lindsay Lohan as artistic director in 2009. Her collaboration with Estrella Archs, then designing the label, was universally panned, and Lohan left after only one season. Archs soon followed to set up her own line.

For spring/summer 2012, the Ungaro studio sent out splashy prints in shades of marine blue and green with accents of red stamped on everything from sun dresses to trouser suits, more dresses in dark ruched jersey and a single gown that appeared to be aimed at the red carpet and was encrusted with crystal and coins.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Web Developer - Junior / Mid Weight

    £15000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: To support their continued grow...

    Recruitment Genius: Marketing Data Specialist

    £22000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: They are the go-to company for ...

    Recruitment Genius: Search Marketing Specialist - PPC / SEO

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This is an opportunity to join the UK's leadin...

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Administrator

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This caravan dealership are currently recruiti...

    Day In a Page

    Greece debt crisis: What happened to democracy when it’s a case of 'Vote Yes or else'?

    'The economic collapse has happened. What is at risk now is democracy...'

    If it doesn’t work in Europe, how is it supposed to work in India or the Middle East, asks Robert Fisk
    The science of swearing: What lies behind the use of four-letter words?

    The science of swearing

    What lies behind the use of four-letter words?
    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain: Clive fled from Zimbabwe - now it won't have him back

    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain

    Clive fled from Zimbabwe - now it won’t have him back
    Africa on the menu: Three foodie friends want to popularise dishes from the continent

    Africa on the menu

    Three foodie friends want to popularise dishes from the hot new continent
    Donna Karan is stepping down after 30 years - so who will fill the DKNY creator's boots?

    Who will fill Donna Karan's boots?

    The designer is stepping down as Chief Designer of DKNY after 30 years. Alexander Fury looks back at the career of 'America's Chanel'
    10 best statement lightbulbs

    10 best statement lightbulbs

    Dare to bare with some out-of-the-ordinary illumination
    Wimbledon 2015: Heather Watson - 'I had Serena's poster on my wall – now I'm playing her'

    Heather Watson: 'I had Serena's poster on my wall – now I'm playing her'

    Briton pumped up for dream meeting with world No 1
    Wimbledon 2015: Nick Bollettieri - It's time for big John Isner to produce the goods to go with his thumping serve

    Nick Bollettieri's Wimbledon Files

    It's time for big John Isner to produce the goods to go with his thumping serve
    Dustin Brown: Who is the tennis player who knocked Rafael Nadal out of Wimbeldon 2015?

    Dustin Brown

    Who is the German player that knocked Nadal out of Wimbeldon 2015?
    Ashes 2015: Damien Martyn - 'England are fired up again, just like in 2005...'

    Damien Martyn: 'England are fired up again, just like in 2005...'

    Australian veteran of that Ashes series, believes the hosts' may become unstoppable if they win the first Test
    Tour de France 2015: Twins Simon and Adam Yates have a mountain to climb during Tour of duty

    Twins have a mountain to climb during Tour of duty

    Yates brothers will target the steepest sections in bid to win a stage in France
    John Palmer: 'Goldfinger' of British crime was murdered, say police

    Murder of the Brink’s-MAT mastermind

    'Goldfinger' of British crime's life ended in a blaze of bullets, say police
    Forget little green men - aliens will look like humans, says Cambridge University evolution expert

    Forget little green men

    Leading evolutionary biologist says aliens will look like humans
    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain: An Algerian scientist adjusts to life working in a kebab shop

    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain

    An Algerian scientist struggles to adjust to her new life working in a Scottish kebab shop
    Bodyworlds museum: Dr Gunther von Hagens has battled legal threats, Parkinson's disease, and the threat of bankruptcy

    Dying dream of Doctor Death

    Dr Gunther von Hagens has battled legal threats, Parkinson's disease, and the threat of bankruptcy