The new designer at Emilio Pucci presented his debut designs for the brand at Pitti Uomo last night.

It's never easy being the new guy - especially not when you're the new head of an old luxury fashion house tasked with bringing it up to date.

But Massimo Giorgetti, who was hired earlier this year to do just that at Florentine brand Pucci - better known for the Sixties scarf prints of its founder than anything achieved by his successors - may have struck the perfect balance.

The Pilot Collection, Giorgetti's debut for resort 2016, which was just shown as part of the fashion trade fair Pitti in Florence, took these two contrasting ideas as it's starting point. 

A look from "The Pilot Collection" by Massimo Giorgetti for Pucci

The most striking element of a distinctly contemporary collection was the use of vibrant technicolour - something the designer became known for at his former role at MSGM. And while the citrus yellow, regal purple and softly blushing pink made a powerfully up-to-date statement, inspiration was actually taken from the Pucci archive.

Prints were graphic and knowing - not least a comic 'tourists in Florence' illustration complete with selfie stick-wielding figure centre stage that was worked onto shirts, bags and an embroidered shift dress. Elsewhere, shirts and dresses had a twisted element - an assymetric sleeve wound into a vast belt here, a top made of scarves there - that further added to Giorgetti's old/new narrative.

A look from "The Pilot Collection" by Massimo Giorgetti for Pucci

Accessories - not something the brand has ever been a by-word for - were in stark contrast to the bohemian glamour of Giorgetti's predecessor Peter Dundas: shoes were square-toed leather loafers or sandals of a delicate feather contrasting with a small, clompy heel; brightly-coloured bags came either bucket style with fringed detail, as capacious totes or top-handled and compact inked with the thick swirling lines of the brand's new logo.


There were feminine details - a coat made of citrus shade fringe, feathery belts and fleur de lis embroidered pencil skirts - but they were balanced with the masculine boxiness of slightly oversized shirting and graphic leather patchworks.

This collection was the fresh start needed, signalling a new chapter in the brand's long-running story.