Menswear finds its swagger to escape role as poor relation of British fashion

 

Menswear is typically considered the poor relation to its feminine counterpart in the fashion world, and nowhere is this poor-relation status more evident than at London Fashion Week, where a day of menswear is usually tacked on to the end of five days of womenswear shows. However, yesterday's enactment of this tradition should mark the end of this plight, as the boys are due to break free with a dedicated three-day event in June.

The British Fashion Council launched a committee last month to raise the profile of UK menswear designers and avert a brain drain of talent overseas. Now Dylan Jones, editor of British GQ, who has spearheaded the British Fashion Council's menswear campaign, has revealed details of the event. "Menswear is something we're exceptionally good at. It's an intrinsic part of our heritage and history," he said, hailing the chance to "shout loud and clear about how we lead the world in this respect". A reception will be hosted by the Prince of Wales at St James Palace to launch the London Menswear Collections in June.

It is hoped that the shows will become part of the round of menswear collections that attract buyers and the international press to Milan, Florence, Paris and New York. In a canny move, the London collections will be the first in the schedule, ensuring that buyers will have plenty in their budgets to make orders for the pieces they see.

Meanwhile, an impressive roster of designers showed yesterday at London Fashion Week, opening with JW Anderson. His collection, shown in the old Central Saint Martins building in Holborn, was an extension of his womenswear collections. Optical graphic prints appeared on kick flare cropped trousers, while padding and quilting bulked up jackets, apron skirts and document cases. More wearable pieces included grid knit roll-neck jumpers and hole punched neoprene bomber jackets. A red and blue cockerel motif appeared in large form on a sweater and as a conversational print on a head-to-toe look.

Martine Rose's military inspired collection pioneered bomber and flight jackets in khaki and orange. And Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes presented a static collection exploring a classic formalwear palette of charcoal, navy and camel.

At Topman Design, the front row was inhabited by Ronnie Wood, Amir Kahn, menswear committee member David Gandy and Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council. The high-end collection from the high street giant was a dark and strict affair with sharp, double-breasted tailoring in wool, leather and pony skin. Studded belts and PVC pieces added a fetish vibe, while graphic floral print shirts barely softened a severe, yet wearable collection.

Patrick Grant, creative director of E Tautz, explained that his latest collection was inspired by a recent Richard Serra exhibition at the Met, at which he was drawn to vast, dense, absorbent forms.

The largely grey collection focused on heavy British cloths invented to stand against British weather, while the micro-houndstooth and gingham checked wools reflected Grant's keen interest in engineering. Flashes of scarlet evoked the dress uniforms of soldiers on parade.

Oliver Spencer finished the show with a signature collection, featuring a neutral colour palette of khaki, grey, navy and tones of brown.

Suggested Topics
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Administrator - Spanish Speaking

    £17000 - £21000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is a fantastic opportunity...

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Administrator - German Speaking

    £17000 - £23000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is a fantastic opportunity...

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Administrator - Japanese Speaking

    £17000 - £23000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: If you are fluent in Japanese a...

    Recruitment Genius: Graphic Designer - Immediate Start

    £16000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is a fantastic opportunity...

    Day In a Page

    Is this the future of flying: battery-powered planes made of plastic, and without flight decks?

    Is this the future of flying?

    Battery-powered planes made of plastic, and without flight decks
    Isis are barbarians – but the Caliphate is a dream at the heart of all Muslim traditions

    Isis are barbarians

    but the Caliphate is an ancient Muslim ideal
    The Brink's-Mat curse strikes again: three tons of stolen gold that brought only grief

    Curse of Brink's Mat strikes again

    Death of John 'Goldfinger' Palmer the latest killing related to 1983 heist
    Greece debt crisis: 'The ministers talk to us about miracles' – why Greeks are cynical ahead of the bailout referendum

    'The ministers talk to us about miracles'

    Why Greeks are cynical ahead of the bailout referendum
    Call of the wild: How science is learning to decode the way animals communicate

    Call of the wild

    How science is learning to decode the way animals communicate
    Greece debt crisis: What happened to democracy when it’s a case of 'Vote Yes or else'?

    'The economic collapse has happened. What is at risk now is democracy...'

    If it doesn’t work in Europe, how is it supposed to work in India or the Middle East, asks Robert Fisk
    The science of swearing: What lies behind the use of four-letter words?

    The science of swearing

    What lies behind the use of four-letter words?
    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain: Clive fled from Zimbabwe - now it won't have him back

    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain

    Clive fled from Zimbabwe - now it won’t have him back
    Africa on the menu: Three foodie friends want to popularise dishes from the continent

    Africa on the menu

    Three foodie friends want to popularise dishes from the hot new continent
    Donna Karan is stepping down after 30 years - so who will fill the DKNY creator's boots?

    Who will fill Donna Karan's boots?

    The designer is stepping down as Chief Designer of DKNY after 30 years. Alexander Fury looks back at the career of 'America's Chanel'
    10 best statement lightbulbs

    10 best statement lightbulbs

    Dare to bare with some out-of-the-ordinary illumination
    Wimbledon 2015: Heather Watson - 'I had Serena's poster on my wall – now I'm playing her'

    Heather Watson: 'I had Serena's poster on my wall – now I'm playing her'

    Briton pumped up for dream meeting with world No 1
    Wimbledon 2015: Nick Bollettieri - It's time for big John Isner to produce the goods to go with his thumping serve

    Nick Bollettieri's Wimbledon Files

    It's time for big John Isner to produce the goods to go with his thumping serve
    Dustin Brown: Who is the tennis player who knocked Rafael Nadal out of Wimbeldon 2015?

    Dustin Brown

    Who is the German player that knocked Nadal out of Wimbeldon 2015?
    Ashes 2015: Damien Martyn - 'England are fired up again, just like in 2005...'

    Damien Martyn: 'England are fired up again, just like in 2005...'

    Australian veteran of that Ashes series, believes the hosts' may become unstoppable if they win the first Test