Milan Fashion Week: The Italian city razzle dazzles from sexy to cerebral

 

Assistant Fashion Editor, in Milan

The razzle-dazzle of Milan Fashion Week can manifest itself in a number of ways.

While Peter Dundas’s Pucci girls, including Eva Herzigova, were beaded and studded in the most overtly sexy terms possible on Saturday evening, at Marni the next morning Consuela Castiglioni approached embellishment in an altogether more cerebral way.

The show began with ruffles. These were to be found on jacket pockets and hemlines – indeed, the opening skirt positively cascaded with them. Later, more skirts were fronted with dense rows of feathers, their rich colours providing a striped pattern of sorts sometimes while other pieces saw them combined with acrylic and bugle beads. The silhouette was voluminous and architectural, black waist belts reigned in some looks.

The deep-colour palette was similar to the collection for spring/summer from the label, and while many of the pieces have been freshened up and tweaked for the new season, this did not feel like a wholly new proposition, showing a sense of confidence others may lack.

 

Read more: Nothing to scare the horses at Gucci
Off-kilter Prada repulses and attracts in equal measure
Who is the ideal woman for Versace? Ask Donatella

Not Messrs Dolce & Gabbana though. Their theatrical production yesterday drew inspiration from the designer’s native Sicily. Fairytales and folklore dominated proceedings – the most literal manifestation of which included little red riding hood in scarlet fur and knight’s hoods embroidered and embellished with jewels. Woodland creatures could be glimpsed among the vines and stems of blooming floral prints before later appearing as faux naif applique, jewelled-eyes gleaming.

The sense of drama was palpable, although there were more readily wearable pieces woven through the story – feminine tailoring with crystal buttons, swingy trapeze dresses and dresses made of lace worked to resemble the wrought iron of imposing gates. Those gates were spun off into ornate keys or embroidered on dresses.

Those details deserve a repeated look, at times the sheer onslaught of clothes and ideas can get jumbled slightly while other motifs can be lost in translation: a clingy, purple peasant dress with colour-matched corset on top a case in point.

ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Ashdown Group: Data Scientist - London - £50,000 + bonus

    £35000 - £50000 per annum + generous bonus: Ashdown Group: Business Analytics ...

    Ashdown Group: IT Project Coordinator (Software Development) - Kingston

    £45000 - £50000 per annum: Ashdown Group: IT Project Coordinator (Software Dev...

    Ashdown Group: Editor-in-chief - Financial Services - City, London

    £60000 - £70000 per annum + benefits : Ashdown Group: A highly successful, glo...

    Ashdown Group: Junior Application Support Analyst - Fluent German Speaker

    £25000 - £30000 per annum + benefits: Ashdown Group: A global leader operating...

    Day In a Page

    General Election 2015: Ed Miliband's unlikely journey from hapless geek to heart-throb

    Miliband's unlikely journey from hapless geek to heart-throb

    He was meant to be Labour's biggest handicap - but has become almost an asset
    General Election 2015: A guide to the smaller parties, from the the National Health Action Party to the Church of the Militant Elvis Party

    On the margins

    From Militant Elvis to Women's Equality: a guide to the underdogs standing in the election
    Amr Darrag: Ex-Muslim Brotherhood minister in exile still believes Egypt's military regime can be replaced with 'moderate' Islamic rule

    'This is the battle of young Egypt for the future of our country'

    Ex-Muslim Brotherhood minister Amr Darrag still believes the opposition can rid Egypt of its military regime and replace it with 'moderate' Islamic rule, he tells Robert Fisk
    Why patients must rely less on doctors: Improving our own health is the 'blockbuster drug of the century'

    Why patients must rely less on doctors

    Improving our own health is the 'blockbuster drug of the century'
    Sarah Lucas is the perfect artist to represent Britain at the Venice Biennale

    Flesh in Venice

    Sarah Lucas has filled the British pavilion at the Venice Biennale with slinky cats and casts of her female friends' private parts. It makes you proud to be a woman, says Karen Wright
    11 best anti-ageing day creams

    11 best anti-ageing day creams

    Slow down the ageing process with one of these high-performance, hardworking anti-agers
    Juventus 2 Real Madrid 1: Five things we learnt, including Iker Casillas is past it and Carlos Tevez remains effective

    Juventus vs Real Madrid

    Five things we learnt from the Italian's Champions League first leg win over the Spanish giants
    Ashes 2015: Test series looks a lost cause for England... whoever takes over as ECB director of cricket

    Ashes series looks a lost cause for England...

    Whoever takes over as ECB director of cricket, says Stephen Brenkley
    Fishing for votes with Nigel Farage: The Ukip leader shows how he can work an audience as he casts his line to the disaffected of Grimsby

    Fishing is on Nigel Farage's mind

    Ukip leader casts a line to the disaffected
    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East? It's amazing they don't all hit each other

    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East?

    Robert Fisk untangles the countries and factions
    China's influence on fashion: At the top of the game both creatively and commercially

    China's influence on fashion

    At the top of the game both creatively and commercially
    Lord O’Donnell: Former cabinet secretary on the election and life away from the levers of power

    The man known as GOD has a reputation for getting the job done

    Lord O'Donnell's three principles of rule
    Rainbow shades: It's all bright on the night

    Rainbow shades

    It's all bright on the night
    'It was first time I had ever tasted chocolate. I kept a piece, and when Amsterdam was liberated, I gave it to the first Allied soldier I saw'

    Bread from heaven

    Dutch survivors thank RAF for World War II drop that saved millions
    Britain will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power - Labour

    How 'the Axe' helped Labour

    UK will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power