Paris Fashion Week: Alexander Wang finds his feet while Rick Owens steps up his pace

 

Paris

Now in his third season at Balenciaga, American designer Alexander Wang may still be finding his feet but the ground beneath them appears to be firm. This collection was sports-luxe, emphasis on the luxe – some looks were paired with industrial wire-handled bags in leather, crocodile and fur. Add croc gloves with a built-in wallet and the Balenciaga customer will have no need to worry about where to store their spare change – not that there will be much of it.

The opening looks seemed like Wang’s take on the Russian-inspired mood of the season. Models in fur-hooded wool coats kept their hands in built-in muffs of woven plastic. Outerwear featured heavily, and was of a utilitarian bent. Cable-knit wool was coated in bright latex; robe-like coats were belted with asymmetric double-layered collars.

The drama that surrounded Wang’s appointment seems to have quieted down. The designer is now starting to show the confidence needed to make the brand his own.

Ann Demeulemeester this season was designed not by its Belgian founder, but a team of four – Demeulemeester left last November. The clothes were mostly black, and beautiful in their way: deconstructed trenches were worn over leather leggings and slimline tailoring; dresses featured twisted details that were handled well. The few non-black looks were of a pink-tinged white. The sense of drama that Demeulemeester brought to her shows was pared back.

 

After using a troupe of “steppers” dancing in aggressive unison last season, Rick Owens returned to a more recognisable format. Nevertheless the parade of street-cast models – appearing again and again in the same looks, coupled with a heavy bass line – made for a disorientating experience. The clothes were classic Owens, leather and wool draped around the body, legs clad in leather thigh-high boots with plimsoll soles. Shades of putty, black, oxblood and chocolate leather, wool and duchesse satin are hallmarks of his glamorous grunge take on the avant garde.

Owens may not be well known outside fashion circles, but anyone passing an All Saints will be familiar with a watered-down version of his aesthetic. However, it is powerful collections like these that explain the reverence with which those in the know speak his name.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Business Development Executive / Digital Marketing Executive

    £26000 - £35000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A luxury beauty house with a nu...

    Recruitment Genius: Housekeepers - Immediate Start

    £8 per hour: Recruitment Genius: This company are currently recruiting new exp...

    Recruitment Genius: Head Concierge

    £25000 - £28000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This award winning Property Man...

    Recruitment Genius: Content, SEO and PPC Executive

    £20000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A fantastic opportunity has ari...

    Day In a Page

    On your feet! Spending at least two hours a day standing reduces the risk of heart attacks, cancer and diabetes, according to new research

    On your feet!

    Spending half the day standing 'reduces risk of heart attacks and cancer'
    Liverpool close in on Milner signing

    Liverpool close in on Milner signing

    Reds baulk at Christian Benteke £32.5m release clause
    With scores of surgeries closing, what hope is there for the David Cameron's promise of 5,000 more GPs and a 24/7 NHS?

    The big NHS question

    Why are there so few new GPs when so many want to study medicine?
    Big knickers are back: Thongs ain't what they used to be

    Thongs ain't what they used to be

    Big knickers are back
    Thurston Moore interview

    Thurston Moore interview

    On living in London, Sonic Youth and musical memoirs
    In full bloom

    In full bloom

    Floral print womenswear
    From leading man to Elephant Man, Bradley Cooper is terrific

    From leading man to Elephant Man

    Bradley Cooper is terrific
    In this the person to restore our trust in the banks?

    In this the person to restore our trust in the banks?

    Dame Colette Bowe - interview
    When do the creative juices dry up?

    When do the creative juices dry up?

    David Lodge thinks he knows
    The 'Cher moment' happening across fashion just now

    Fashion's Cher moment

    Ageing beauty will always be more classy than all that booty
    Thousands of teenage girls enduring debilitating illnesses after routine school cancer vaccination

    Health fears over school cancer jab

    Shock new Freedom of Information figures show how thousands of girls have suffered serious symptoms after routine HPV injection
    Fifa President Sepp Blatter warns his opponents: 'I forgive everyone, but I don't forget'

    'I forgive everyone, but I don't forget'

    Fifa president Sepp Blatter issues defiant warning to opponents
    Extreme summer temperatures will soon cause deaths of up to 1,700 more Britons a year, says government report

    Weather warning

    Extreme summer temperatures will soon cause deaths of up to 1,700 more Britons a year, says government report
    LSD: Speaking to volunteer users of the drug as trials get underway to see if it cures depression and addiction

    High hopes for LSD

    Meet the volunteer users helping to see if it cures depression and addiction
    German soldier who died fighting for UK in Battle of Waterloo should be removed from museum display and given dignified funeral, say historians

    Saving Private Brandt

    A Belgian museum's display of the skeleton of a soldier killed at Waterloo prompts calls for him to be given a dignified funeral