Paris Fashion Week: For Louis Vuitton, no logo is the new logo, and black is the new blonde

Show also sees Kate Moss return to the catwalk after a two-year break

Paris

The Louis Vuitton hotel opened its doors today to present its fall/winter collection on the closing day of a month of international fashion shows. Rather than the launch of a venture into branded haute hospitality from the luxury conglomerate LVMH however, this was a fictional hotel dreamt up by designer Marc Jacobs, who got in to the spirit by taking his bow wearing red pyjamas. Indeed, there was not a logo to be seen from the label famed for making such things fashionable.

The backdrop to the catwalk was a wallpapered corridor, lined with heavy wooden doors through which models, including Kate Moss returning to the catwalk after a two-year break, emerged. As each model entered, the audience was afforded a glimpse at the lavish room sets projected inside, some replete with the label’s signature travel trunks. This was all done with an air of the bygone days of the Thirties and Forties.

The show notes promised a touch of “une robe de chambre”, but there was more than just a touch going on here, with louche wool coats in the shape of dressing gowns and with rounded lapels worn belted over silk negligee style slip dresses in pale peach. In one instance, silk and lace French knickers were worn by Cara Delevingne with a woollen V-neck jumper under the deep grey of a fur coat. Mannish wool suit jackets were worn without bottoms, while fur-trimmed fluted sleeves and hems on dresses looked glamorously grand.

The hems of wool coats appeared to have been dipped in sequins for glittering effect, and later marabou feathers  too, before cream silk coats came out embroidered with tiny flowers and lined with feathers all of which had a boudoir essence.

The house’s signature LV monogram and chequered Damier canvas were noticeably absent from the show’s accessories, replaced instead with exotic skins such as waxed crocodile, python, marabou and goose feathers and mink continuing the trend of the increase of fur on the catwalks this season. Bags are big business after all, and this was literally the case at Miu Miu, which showed this afternoon, where giant tote bags and duffle bags, both with an ostrich skin effect, dwarfed models.

It will be the “normal” sized bags – in bubble-gum pink leather, patterned with stripes and spots, all in a structured doctor style or new half-moon shape – that will be the real money makers though. Presented to a selection of Hollywood actresses including Renee Zellweger, Zoe Saldana, January Jones and Rebecca Hall, Miuccia Prada’s collection was a hybrid of tomboy and ladylike. The opening look was of navy coats with sailor “jumper flaps” worn over vividly striped calf length knife pleated skirts and Victorian boots – with the requisite Miu Miu twist: a thick tyre tread sole on which models stomped along the metal grated catwalk.

Each look was belted at the waist, including the designer’s take on the bomber jacket, which was sometimes worn off the shoulder, sometimes in bright orange and sometimes more like a dress but always reaching below the derriere and zipped at the front. Smart looks of polka-dot wool coats in candy shades of yellow, pink and blues were more typical of Mrs Prada – who generally sets the trends in fashion.

ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Ashdown Group: Marketing Manager (B2B) - Romford - £40,000 + car

    £35000 - £40000 per annum + car and benefits: Ashdown Group: Marketing Manager...

    Ashdown Group: Helpdesk Analyst - Devon - £20,000

    £18000 - £20000 per annum: Ashdown Group: Helpdesk Analyst - Devon - £20,000 ...

    Ashdown Group: Data Scientist - London - £50,000 + bonus

    £35000 - £50000 per annum + generous bonus: Ashdown Group: Business Analytics ...

    Ashdown Group: IT Project Coordinator (Software Development) - Kingston

    £45000 - £50000 per annum: Ashdown Group: IT Project Coordinator (Software Dev...

    Day In a Page

    General Election 2015: Ed Miliband's unlikely journey from hapless geek to heart-throb

    Miliband's unlikely journey from hapless geek to heart-throb

    He was meant to be Labour's biggest handicap - but has become almost an asset
    General Election 2015: A guide to the smaller parties, from the the National Health Action Party to the Church of the Militant Elvis Party

    On the margins

    From Militant Elvis to Women's Equality: a guide to the underdogs standing in the election
    Amr Darrag: Ex-Muslim Brotherhood minister in exile still believes Egypt's military regime can be replaced with 'moderate' Islamic rule

    'This is the battle of young Egypt for the future of our country'

    Ex-Muslim Brotherhood minister Amr Darrag still believes the opposition can rid Egypt of its military regime and replace it with 'moderate' Islamic rule, he tells Robert Fisk
    Why patients must rely less on doctors: Improving our own health is the 'blockbuster drug of the century'

    Why patients must rely less on doctors

    Improving our own health is the 'blockbuster drug of the century'
    Sarah Lucas is the perfect artist to represent Britain at the Venice Biennale

    Flesh in Venice

    Sarah Lucas has filled the British pavilion at the Venice Biennale with slinky cats and casts of her female friends' private parts. It makes you proud to be a woman, says Karen Wright
    11 best anti-ageing day creams

    11 best anti-ageing day creams

    Slow down the ageing process with one of these high-performance, hardworking anti-agers
    Juventus 2 Real Madrid 1: Five things we learnt, including Iker Casillas is past it and Carlos Tevez remains effective

    Juventus vs Real Madrid

    Five things we learnt from the Italian's Champions League first leg win over the Spanish giants
    Ashes 2015: Test series looks a lost cause for England... whoever takes over as ECB director of cricket

    Ashes series looks a lost cause for England...

    Whoever takes over as ECB director of cricket, says Stephen Brenkley
    Fishing for votes with Nigel Farage: The Ukip leader shows how he can work an audience as he casts his line to the disaffected of Grimsby

    Fishing is on Nigel Farage's mind

    Ukip leader casts a line to the disaffected
    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East? It's amazing they don't all hit each other

    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East?

    Robert Fisk untangles the countries and factions
    China's influence on fashion: At the top of the game both creatively and commercially

    China's influence on fashion

    At the top of the game both creatively and commercially
    Lord O’Donnell: Former cabinet secretary on the election and life away from the levers of power

    The man known as GOD has a reputation for getting the job done

    Lord O'Donnell's three principles of rule
    Rainbow shades: It's all bright on the night

    Rainbow shades

    It's all bright on the night
    'It was first time I had ever tasted chocolate. I kept a piece, and when Amsterdam was liberated, I gave it to the first Allied soldier I saw'

    Bread from heaven

    Dutch survivors thank RAF for World War II drop that saved millions
    Britain will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power - Labour

    How 'the Axe' helped Labour

    UK will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power