Paris Fashion Week: Make my day - punk rocks the catwalk

 

While commerce remains at the forefront of the minds of the Paris Fashion Week designers, many of whom answer to luxury conglomerates such as PPR and LVMH, providing a fantasy and a sense of spectacle is king.

So what should be made of a return by many to the signatures with which pioneering designers and established houses alike made their name?

Yesterday, Japanese avant-garde designer Junya Watanabe delivered a collection based on the biker jacket: a garment he has continually worked into his designs.

The jacket was reworked into short, structured dresses, the stiff leather on the bodice juxtaposed with softer fabrics such as wool and chiffon: one even had the look of a biker-cum-evening gown.

Jeans too, were re-visited and patch-worked in a way that looked haphazard, but was, of course, meticulously placed. With the addition of plaid wool, another of Watanabe's signatures, zips, and pale-skinned models with matted and teased hair, the collection had a typically anarchic look tapping intothe season's punk and rock'n'roll trend.

The collective rebellion taking hold of designers from New York to Paris is largely attributable to the highly anticipated exhibition "Punk from Chaos to Couture", which opens at New York's Metropolitan Museum in May. Its curator, Andrew Bolton, told Women's Wear Daily he had been considering such a subject for some time. "Punk broke all rules when it came to fashion, and everything became possible after punk," he said when the exhibition was announced in September. "Its impact on high fashion became enormous."

Punk's Grande Dame, the ever-rebellious Vivienne Westwood, chose the Palais de Tokyo yesterday to bang the drum for the environmental cause Climate Revolution. Its message was writ large, literally, on capes with ragged edges, while the movement's graphics and logos were woven into jacquards and plastered on T-shirts and bags.

With punkish signatures abounding elsewhere, it was characteristic of Westwood's contrary nature to chose to take another direction, with mediaeval Europe her inspiration.

Beautiful embroideries and weaves were dramatically draped, ruched and buckled. Seams were left raw on patchwork woollen pieces, while cloaks, capes and skirts were shredded to create a ragged finish.

With plastic hair braids, dramatically daubed make-up and platform boots, there was something of the post-apocalyptic warrior woman about Westwood's presentation.

PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
Arts and Entertainment
Judi Dench appeared at the Hay Festival to perform excerpts from Shakespearean plays
tvJudi Dench and Hugh Bonneville join Benedict Cumberbatch in BBC Shakespeare adaptations
Life and Style
fashion David Beckham fronts adverts for his underwear collection
Arts and Entertainment
Exhibition at the Centre Pompidou in Metz - 23 May 2012
art
News
i100Most young people can't
Sport
Is this how Mario Balotelli will cruise into Liverpool?
football
Arts and Entertainment
Alfred Molina, left, and John Lithgow in a scene from 'Love Is Strange'
film
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    C# Developer -Winforms, VB6 - Trading Systems - Woking

    £1 per annum: Harrington Starr: A leading financial software house with its He...

    C #Programmer (.Net 4.0/4.5/ C#) -Hertfordshire-Finance

    £45000 - £50000 per annum: Harrington Starr: C #Developer (.Net 4.0/4.5/ C#, A...

    JQuery Developer JQuery, UI, Tomcat, Java - Woking

    £1 per annum: Harrington Starr: JQuery Developer JQuery, UI, Tomcat, Java - Tr...

    Web Developer (JQuery, UI, Tomcat, Java) - Woking

    £1 per annum: Harrington Starr: Web Developer (JQuery, UI, Tomcat, Java)- Trad...

    Day In a Page

    Middle East crisis: We know all too much about the cruelty of Isis – but all too little about who they are

    We know all too much about the cruelty of Isis – but all too little about who they are

    Now Obama has seen the next US reporter to be threatened with beheading, will he blink, asks Robert Fisk
    Neanderthals lived alongside humans for centuries, latest study shows

    Final resting place of our Neanderthal neighbours revealed

    Bones dated to 40,000 years ago show species may have died out in Belgium species co-existed
    Scottish independence: The new Scots who hold fate of the UK in their hands

    The new Scots who hold fate of the UK in their hands

    Scotland’s immigrants are as passionate about the future of their adopted nation as anyone else
    Britain's ugliest buildings: Which monstrosities should be nominated for the Dead Prize?

    Blight club: Britain's ugliest buildings

    Following the architect Cameron Sinclair's introduction of the Dead Prize, an award for ugly buildings, John Rentoul reflects on some of the biggest blots on the UK landscape
    eBay's enduring appeal: Online auction site is still the UK's most popular e-commerce retailer

    eBay's enduring appeal

    The online auction site is still the UK's most popular e-commerce site
    Culture Minister Ed Vaizey: ‘lack of ethnic minority and black faces on TV is weird’

    'Lack of ethnic minority and black faces on TV is weird'

    Culture Minister Ed Vaizey calls for immediate action to address the problem
    Artist Olafur Eliasson's latest large-scale works are inspired by the paintings of JMW Turner

    Magic circles: Artist Olafur Eliasson

    Eliasson's works will go alongside a new exhibition of JMW Turner at Tate Britain. He tells Jay Merrick why the paintings of his hero are ripe for reinvention
    Josephine Dickinson: 'A cochlear implant helped me to discover a new world of sound'

    Josephine Dickinson: 'How I discovered a new world of sound'

    After going deaf as a child, musician and poet Josephine Dickinson made do with a hearing aid for five decades. Then she had a cochlear implant - and everything changed
    Greggs Google fail: Was the bakery's response to its logo mishap a stroke of marketing genius?

    Greggs gives lesson in crisis management

    After a mishap with their logo, high street staple Greggs went viral this week. But, as Simon Usborne discovers, their social media response was anything but half baked
    Matthew McConaughey has been singing the praises of bumbags (shame he doesn't know how to wear one)

    Matthew McConaughey sings the praises of bumbags

    Shame he doesn't know how to wear one. Harriet Walker explains the dos and don'ts of fanny packs
    7 best quadcopters and drones

    Flying fun: 7 best quadcopters and drones

    From state of the art devices with stabilised cameras to mini gadgets that can soar around the home, we take some flying objects for a spin
    Joey Barton: ‘I’ve been guilty of getting a bit irate’

    Joey Barton: ‘I’ve been guilty of getting a bit irate’

    The midfielder returned to the Premier League after two years last weekend. The controversial character had much to discuss after his first game back
    Andy Murray: I quit while I’m ahead too often

    Andy Murray: I quit while I’m ahead too often

    British No 1 knows his consistency as well as his fitness needs working on as he prepares for the US Open after a ‘very, very up and down’ year
    Ferguson: In the heartlands of America, a descent into madness

    A descent into madness in America's heartlands

    David Usborne arrived in Ferguson, Missouri to be greeted by a scene more redolent of Gaza and Afghanistan
    BBC’s filming of raid at Sir Cliff’s home ‘may be result of corruption’

    BBC faces corruption allegation over its Sir Cliff police raid coverage

    Reporter’s relationship with police under scrutiny as DG is summoned by MPs to explain extensive live broadcast of swoop on singer’s home