Paris menswear: Lanvin goes back to the Eighties
Fashion's all about evolution and revolution. Particularly in the pursuit of the new, and youthful. The Lanvin autumn/winter 2014 collection was both: at least, on paper. The styles referenced eighties new-wave, skinny models with partially-shaved hairstyles marching out in acid-bright varsity-jackets, skinny ties and giant trainers like characters from a Bret Easton Ellis novel.
All very, very young, and very new, for Lanvin - a look much more in the vein of Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent. Which was the issue. The tourniquet-tight tailored suits and slender sports separates looked pinched, in every sense of the term. They also seemed antithetical to the gentleness that Lanvin's twenty-first century incarnation has made a leitmotif. That is tied up in the identity of Lanvin artistic director Alber Elbaz - a man of a certain age and a certain size - and of Lucas Ossendrijver, gangly head of menswear. Taking their joint bow at the end of their menswear shows, you're constantly struck by the resemblance to British comedy duo Little and Large.
However it underscores the universal appeal of the clothes, hat every body can look good in Lanvin - from Elbaz to the Arsenal football team (to whom the house are official tailors). By contrast this collection's barrow focus on narrow tailoring felt restrictive.
Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent is the current reference point for every other designer. Maybe it's the much mythologised sales figures? Or maybe it's because Saint Laurent is doing something different to every other house. Namely, eschewing overarching themes or narrative, and just making clothes.
That approach leads to variety, but also disparity. There's no cohesive conceptual backbone to Slimane's approach. He gave us a pamphlet featuring the graphic work of New York punk artist Raymond Pettibon. What was it's relevance to the clothes? Hard to say. There were no obviously derivative prints or motifs, although there was a vague feel of a cool New Yorkite in a narrow suit and herringbone trench sometime between 1960 and yesterday.
It still looked good. But ultimately, Slimane's aesthetic is an indication of the staticity of masculine style. Antithetical to fashion's seasonal swing-about. But it still looked good.
Lincoln MP Karl McCartney 'denied all knowledge' of the Twitter activity
Life & Style blogs
iPhone 5C could be killed next year, and Apple’s cheap and cheerful line might die with it
Girl, 7, gets Tesco to remove 'stupid' sign suggesting superheroes are 'for boys'
Coke milk? Coca-Cola to launch premium milk brand called Fairlife
Black Friday: Best fashion deals -online and on the high-street
UK's first plus-size fashion magazine Slink hits the shelves: 'Style doesn't stop at size 8'
- 1 Sean Abbott: Messages of support flood in for bowler following death of batsman Phil Hughes
- 2 Exodus Gods and Kings: Ridley Scott never considered casting 'Mohammad so-and-so from such-and-such' in lead role
- 3 This letter from a reader explains why women can’t play football
- 4 'You should come to my house and eat cheeses with me': 4-year-old sends adorable love letter to girl at school
- 5 Scientists predict green energy revolution after incredible new graphene discoveries
Excellent Salary: Austen Lloyd: SURREY MARKET TOWN - SENIOR PROPERTY SOLICITOR...
Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: What do you want to do with your career? Do yo...
Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This company is a leading expert in immunoassa...
Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: A Development Scientist is required to join a ...