Paris menswear: Lanvin goes back to the Eighties

 

Fashion's all about evolution and revolution. Particularly in the pursuit of the new, and youthful. The Lanvin autumn/winter 2014 collection was both: at least, on paper. The styles referenced eighties new-wave, skinny models with partially-shaved hairstyles marching out in acid-bright varsity-jackets, skinny ties and giant trainers like characters from a Bret Easton Ellis novel.

All very, very young, and very new, for Lanvin - a look much more in the vein of Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent. Which was the issue. The tourniquet-tight tailored suits and slender sports separates looked pinched, in every sense of the term. They also seemed antithetical to the gentleness that Lanvin's twenty-first century incarnation has made a leitmotif. That is tied up in the identity of Lanvin artistic director Alber Elbaz - a man of a certain age and a certain size - and of Lucas Ossendrijver, gangly head of menswear. Taking their joint bow at the end of their menswear shows, you're constantly struck by the resemblance to British comedy duo Little and Large.

However it underscores the universal appeal of the clothes, hat every body can look good in Lanvin - from Elbaz to the Arsenal football team (to whom the house are official tailors). By contrast this collection's barrow focus on narrow tailoring felt restrictive.

Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent is the current reference point for every other designer. Maybe it's the much mythologised sales figures? Or maybe it's because Saint Laurent is doing something different to every other house. Namely, eschewing overarching themes or narrative, and just making clothes.

That approach leads to variety, but also disparity. There's no cohesive conceptual backbone to Slimane's approach. He gave us a pamphlet featuring the graphic work of New York punk artist Raymond Pettibon. What was it's relevance to the clothes? Hard to say. There were no obviously derivative prints or motifs, although there was a vague feel of a cool New Yorkite in a narrow suit and herringbone trench sometime between 1960 and yesterday.

It still looked good. But ultimately, Slimane's aesthetic is an indication of the staticity of masculine style. Antithetical to fashion's seasonal swing-about. But it still looked good.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Ashdown Group: Front-End UI Application Developer

    £30000 - £40000 per annum + Benefits: Ashdown Group: Front-End UI Application ...

    Recruitment Genius: Digital Account Executive

    £18000 - £26000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: They work with major vehicle ma...

    Recruitment Genius: Service Engineers - Doncaster / Hull

    £27000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Domestic Service Only Engineers are requ...

    Recruitment Genius: Employability / Recruitment Adviser

    £23600 - £27500 per annum: Recruitment Genius: The Employability Service withi...

    Day In a Page

    Where the spooks get their coffee fix: The busiest Starbucks in the US is also the most secretive

    The secret CIA Starbucks

    The coffee shop is deep inside the agency's forested Virginia compound
    Revealed: How the Establishment closed ranks over fallout from Loch Ness Monster 'sighting'

    How the Establishment closed ranks over fallout from Nessie 'sighting'

    The Natural History Museum's chief scientist was dismissed for declaring he had found the monster
    One million Britons using food banks, according to Trussell Trust

    One million Britons using food banks

    Huge surge in number of families dependent on emergency food aid
    Excavation at Italian cafe to fix rising damp unearths 2,500 years of history in 3,000 amazing objects

    2,500 years of history in 3,000 amazing objects

    Excavation at Italian cafe to fix rising damp unearths trove
    The Hubble Space Telescope's amazing journey, 25 years on

    The Hubble Space Telescope's amazing journey 25 years on

    The space telescope was seen as a costly flop on its first release
    Did Conservative peer Lord Ashcroft quit the House of Lords to become a non-dom?

    Did Lord Ashcroft quit the House of Lords to become a non-dom?

    A document seen by The Independent shows that a week after he resigned from the Lords he sold 350,000 shares in an American company - netting him $11.2m
    Apple's ethnic emojis are being used to make racist comments on social media

    Ethnic emojis used in racist comments

    They were intended to promote harmony, but have achieved the opposite
    Sir Kenneth Branagh interview: 'My bones are in the theatre'

    Sir Kenneth Branagh: 'My bones are in the theatre'

    The actor-turned-director’s new company will stage five plays from October – including works by Shakespeare and John Osborne
    The sloth is now the face (and furry body) of three big advertising campaigns

    The sloth is the face of three ad campaigns

    Priya Elan discovers why slow and sleepy wins the race for brands in need of a new image
    How to run a restaurant: As two newbies discovered, there's more to it than good food

    How to run a restaurant

    As two newbies discovered, there's more to it than good food
    Record Store Day: Remembering an era when buying and selling discs were labours of love

    Record Store Day: The vinyl countdown

    For Lois Pryce, working in a record shop was a dream job - until the bean counters ruined it
    Usher, Mary J Blige and Will.i.am to give free concert as part of the Global Poverty Project

    Mary J Blige and Will.i.am to give free concert

    The concert in Washington is part of the Global Citizen project, which aims to encourage young people to donate to charity
    10 best tote bags

    Accessorise with a stylish shopper this spring: 10 best tote bags

    We find carriers with room for all your essentials (and a bit more)
    Paul Scholes column: I hear Manchester City are closing on Pep Guardiola for next summer – but I'd also love to see Jürgen Klopp managing in England

    Paul Scholes column

    I hear Manchester City are closing on Pep Guardiola for next summer – but I'd also love to see Jürgen Klopp managing in England
    Jessica Ennis-Hill: 'I just want to give it my best shot'

    Jessica Ennis-Hill: 'I just want to give it my best shot'

    The heptathlete has gone from the toast of the nation to being a sleep-deprived mum - but she’s ready to compete again. She just doesn't know how well she'll do...