Scots invade the catwalk as men's designers enjoy a final fling in London

Lambswool and tartan featured as fashion week wraps up

While London is undoubtedly the headline location for British fashion, it would be wrong to discount the importance of the rest of the nation.

With a wealth of designers and manufacturers originating in Scotland, or turning to it for inspiration, the final day of shows at London Collections: Men reflected the spotlight back north of the border.

Most directly, this was done through the use of tartan. At E Tautz, the ready-to-wear arm of Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons, the designer Patrick Grant returned to his Edinburgh roots, carefully navigating the fine line between "the dourness of the Wee Free Church, the awfulness of find-a-family tartan and Bonnie Prince Shortbread and the unselfconscious sentimentality of the crofters home".

Grant maintained an equilibrium between the authentic and pastiche to produce a strong collection replete with large-scale tartan in shades of grey, purple and orange –the colours of the greyscape of Harris, heather and rust.

There was a sense of subversion among the traditional though, with the squashed snouts of Wally Dugs gracing lambswool knits and silk ties, while breech-style trousers in wool and jacquard were tucked into hand-knitted socks in the manner of a bored Hebridean teen. At Hardy Amies, too, the creative director Claire Malcolm took a skewed look at Scotland with a "Bauhaus check" – an abstracted tartan that refreshed the nostalgia of a collection inspired by Amies' high society and creative connections fostered "attending weekend parties at Balmoral".

Cut into sharp silhouetted three-piece suits (lapels pinned with thistle buttonholes), outerwear and accessories – from rucksacks to iPad cases – the check was at once recognisable and new.

Cable knits and roll necks were two knitwear trends that emerged during the three days of London collections. Shaun Samson showed thick patchwork versions in his grungy streetwear-inspired collection while fine versions worn under tailoring presented a modern take on formal dressing. Fair Isle patterns were also represented with Tom Ford reminiscing as he explained his collection. "I haven't designed a Fair Isle sweater since the Eighties," Ford said of a dusky pink version. "It looks great again – ours are, of course, cashmere." After all, Ford's brand of extreme luxury has been met with great demand in the wealthy Russian and Asian markets, although the designer also revealed his plans for his first London store opening in the autumn which will house both men's and womenswear. Showing a great appetite for tartan and plaid tailoring in greys and browns, Ford said the look was "check on check on check on check".

All things Scottish was certainly an overriding theme, but there was a strong showing for other parts of the UK too – and one could chart the journey on the military map-printed outerwear in Christopher Raeburn's assured collection awash with naval influence, including semaphore prints and stripes. J W Anderson took things to the suburbs with his avant-garde offering. Specifically to the "bourgeois kinkiness and boudoir perversity" behind twitching curtains – which manifested as ruffle-frilled edges on shorts, black riding boots and white PVC gloves. These were pieces designed for provocation, though Anderson knows to cater for more conservative customers, too.

PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookA wonderful selection of salads, starters and mains featuring venison, grouse and other game
Life and Style
Sainsbury's could roll the lorries out across its whole fleet if they are successful
tech
Arts and Entertainment
tv
Sport
Ojo Onaolapo celebrates winning the bronze medal
commonwealth games
Arts and Entertainment
Rock band Led Zeppelin in the early 1970s
musicLed Zeppelin to release alternative Stairway To Heaven after 43 years
Arts and Entertainment
High-flyer: Chris Pratt in 'Guardians of the Galaxy'
filmHe was homeless in Hawaii when he got his big break. Now the comic actor Chris Pratt is Hollywood's new favourite action star
Arts and Entertainment
'Old Fashioned' will be a different kind of love story to '50 Shades'
film
Life and Style
fashionHealth concerns and 'pornified' perceptions have made women more conscious at the beach
Arts and Entertainment
Tracey Emin's 'My Bed' is returning to the Tate more than 15 years after it first caused shockwaves at the gallery
artTracey Emin's bed returns to the Tate after record sale
Arts and Entertainment
Smart mover: Peter Bazalgette
filmHow live cinema screenings can boost arts audiences
Environment
Neil Young performing at Hyde Park, London, earlier this month
environment
News
i100
News
Prince Harry is clearing enjoying the Commonwealth Games judging by this photo
people(a real one this time)
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Project Coordinator

    Competitive: The Green Recruitment Company: The Organisation: The Green Recrui...

    Project Manager (HR)- Bristol - Upto £400 p/day

    £350 - £400 per annum + competitive: Orgtel: Project Manager (specializing in ...

    Embedded Linux Engineer

    £40000 - £50000 per annum + competitive: Progressive Recruitment: Embedded Sof...

    Senior Hardware Design Engineer - Broadcast

    £50000 - £65000 per annum + Benefits: Progressive Recruitment: Working for a m...

    Day In a Page

    Save the tiger: The animals bred for bones on China’s tiger farms

    The animals bred for bones on China’s tiger farms

    The big cats kept in captivity to perform for paying audiences and then, when dead, their bodies used to fortify wine
    A former custard factory, a Midlands bog and a Leeds cemetery all included in top 50 hidden spots in the UK

    A former custard factory, a Midlands bog and a Leeds cemetery

    Introducing the top 50 hidden spots in Britain
    Ebola epidemic: Plagued by fear

    Ebola epidemic: Plagued by fear

    How a disease that has claimed fewer than 2,000 victims in its history has earned a place in the darkest corner of the public's imagination
    Chris Pratt: From 'Parks and Recreation' to 'Guardians of the Galaxy'

    From 'Parks and Recreation' to 'Guardians of the Galaxy'

    He was homeless in Hawaii when he got his big break. Now the comic actor Chris Pratt is Hollywood's new favourite action star
    How live cinema screenings can boost arts audiences

    How live cinema screenings can boost arts audiences

    Broadcasting plays and exhibitions to cinemas is a sure-fire box office smash
    Shipping container hotels: Pop-up hotels filling a niche

    Pop-up hotels filling a niche

    Spending the night in a shipping container doesn't sound appealing, but these mobile crash pads are popping up at the summer's biggest events
    Native American headdresses are not fashion accessories

    Feather dust-up

    A Canadian festival has banned Native American headwear. Haven't we been here before?
    Boris Johnson's war on diesel

    Boris Johnson's war on diesel

    11m cars here run on diesel. It's seen as a greener alternative to unleaded petrol. So why is London's mayor on a crusade against the black pump?
    5 best waterproof cameras

    Splash and flash: 5 best waterproof cameras

    Don't let water stop you taking snaps with one of these machines that will take you from the sand to meters deep
    Louis van Gaal interview: Manchester United manager discusses tactics and rebuilding after the David Moyes era

    Louis van Gaal interview

    Manchester United manager discusses tactics and rebuilding after the David Moyes era
    The children were playing in the street with toy guns. The air strikes were tragically real

    The air strikes were tragically real

    The children were playing in the street with toy guns
    Boozy, ignorant, intolerant, but very polite – The British, as others see us

    Britain as others see us

    Boozy, ignorant, intolerant, but very polite
    Countries that don’t survey their tigers risk losing them altogether

    Countries that don’t survey their tigers risk losing them

    Jonathon Porritt sounds the alarm
    How did our legends really begin?

    How did our legends really begin?

    Applying the theory of evolution to the world's many mythologies
    Watch out: Lambrusco is back on the menu

    Lambrusco is back on the menu

    Naff Seventies corner-shop staple is this year's Aperol Spritz