Scots invade the catwalk as men's designers enjoy a final fling in London

Lambswool and tartan featured as fashion week wraps up

While London is undoubtedly the headline location for British fashion, it would be wrong to discount the importance of the rest of the nation.

With a wealth of designers and manufacturers originating in Scotland, or turning to it for inspiration, the final day of shows at London Collections: Men reflected the spotlight back north of the border.

Most directly, this was done through the use of tartan. At E Tautz, the ready-to-wear arm of Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons, the designer Patrick Grant returned to his Edinburgh roots, carefully navigating the fine line between "the dourness of the Wee Free Church, the awfulness of find-a-family tartan and Bonnie Prince Shortbread and the unselfconscious sentimentality of the crofters home".

Grant maintained an equilibrium between the authentic and pastiche to produce a strong collection replete with large-scale tartan in shades of grey, purple and orange –the colours of the greyscape of Harris, heather and rust.

There was a sense of subversion among the traditional though, with the squashed snouts of Wally Dugs gracing lambswool knits and silk ties, while breech-style trousers in wool and jacquard were tucked into hand-knitted socks in the manner of a bored Hebridean teen. At Hardy Amies, too, the creative director Claire Malcolm took a skewed look at Scotland with a "Bauhaus check" – an abstracted tartan that refreshed the nostalgia of a collection inspired by Amies' high society and creative connections fostered "attending weekend parties at Balmoral".

Cut into sharp silhouetted three-piece suits (lapels pinned with thistle buttonholes), outerwear and accessories – from rucksacks to iPad cases – the check was at once recognisable and new.

Cable knits and roll necks were two knitwear trends that emerged during the three days of London collections. Shaun Samson showed thick patchwork versions in his grungy streetwear-inspired collection while fine versions worn under tailoring presented a modern take on formal dressing. Fair Isle patterns were also represented with Tom Ford reminiscing as he explained his collection. "I haven't designed a Fair Isle sweater since the Eighties," Ford said of a dusky pink version. "It looks great again – ours are, of course, cashmere." After all, Ford's brand of extreme luxury has been met with great demand in the wealthy Russian and Asian markets, although the designer also revealed his plans for his first London store opening in the autumn which will house both men's and womenswear. Showing a great appetite for tartan and plaid tailoring in greys and browns, Ford said the look was "check on check on check on check".

All things Scottish was certainly an overriding theme, but there was a strong showing for other parts of the UK too – and one could chart the journey on the military map-printed outerwear in Christopher Raeburn's assured collection awash with naval influence, including semaphore prints and stripes. J W Anderson took things to the suburbs with his avant-garde offering. Specifically to the "bourgeois kinkiness and boudoir perversity" behind twitching curtains – which manifested as ruffle-frilled edges on shorts, black riding boots and white PVC gloves. These were pieces designed for provocation, though Anderson knows to cater for more conservative customers, too.

Voices
Barn owls are among species that could be affected
charity appeal
News
Sarah Silverman (middle) with sister Reform Rabbi Susan Silverman (right) and sister actress Laura Silverman (left) at Jerusalem's Western Wall for feminist Hanuka candle-lighting ceremony
peopleControversial comedian stages pro-equality Hanukkah lighting during a protest at Jerusalem's Wailing Wall
Arts and Entertainment
The Bach Choir has been crowned the inaugural winner of Sky Arts’ show The Great Culture Quiz
arts + ents140-year-old choir declared winner of Sky Arts' 'The Great Culture Quiz'
Sport
After another poor series in Sri Lanka, Alastair Cook claimed all players go through a lean period
cricketEoin Morgan reportedly to take over ODI captaincy
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Finance Director

    £65000 - £80000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Finance Director required to jo...

    Recruitment Genius: Medico-Legal Assistant

    £15000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is a unique opportunity fo...

    Ashdown Group: (PHP / Python) - Global Media firm

    £50000 per annum + 26 days holiday,pension: Ashdown Group: A highly successful...

    The Jenrick Group: Quality Inspector

    £27000 per annum + pension + holidays: The Jenrick Group: A Quality Technician...

    Day In a Page

    Homeless Veterans appeal: 'You look for someone who's an inspiration and try to be like them'

    Homeless Veterans appeal

    In 2010, Sgt Gary Jamieson stepped on an IED in Afghanistan and lost his legs and an arm. He reveals what, and who, helped him to make a remarkable recovery
    Could cannabis oil reverse the effects of cancer?

    Could cannabis oil reverse effects of cancer?

    As a film following six patients receiving the controversial treatment is released, Kate Hilpern uncovers a very slippery issue
    The Interview movie review: You can't see Seth Rogen and James Franco's Kim Jong Un assassination film, but you can read about it here

    The Interview movie review

    You can't see Seth Rogen and James Franco's Kim Jong Un assassination film, but you can read about it here
    Serial mania has propelled podcasts into the cultural mainstream

    How podcasts became mainstream

    People have consumed gripping armchair investigation Serial with a relish typically reserved for box-set binges
    Jesus Christ has become an unlikely pin-up for hipster marketing companies

    Jesus Christ has become an unlikely pin-up

    Kevin Lee Light, aka "Jesus", is the newest client of creative agency Mother while rival agency Anomaly has launched Sexy Jesus, depicting the Messiah in a series of Athena-style poses
    Rosetta space mission voted most important scientific breakthrough of 2014

    A memorable year for science – if not for mice

    The most important scientific breakthroughs of 2014
    Christmas cocktails to make you merry: From eggnog to Brown Betty and Rum Bumpo

    Christmas cocktails to make you merry

    Mulled wine is an essential seasonal treat. But now drinkers are rediscovering other traditional festive tipples. Angela Clutton raises a glass to Christmas cocktails
    5 best activity trackers

    Fitness technology: 5 best activity trackers

    Up the ante in your regimen and change the habits of a lifetime with this wearable tech
    Paul Scholes column: It's a little-known fact, but I have played one of the seven dwarves

    Paul Scholes column

    It's a little-known fact, but I have played one of the seven dwarves
    Fifa's travelling circus once again steals limelight from real stars

    Fifa's travelling circus once again steals limelight from real stars

    Club World Cup kicked into the long grass by the continued farce surrounding Blatter, Garcia, Russia and Qatar
    Frank Warren column: 2014 – boxing is back and winning new fans

    Frank Warren: Boxing is back and winning new fans

    2014 proves it's now one of sport's biggest hitters again
    Jeb Bush vs Hillary Clinton: The power dynamics of the two first families

    Jeb Bush vs Hillary Clinton

    Karen Tumulty explores the power dynamics of the two first families
    Stockholm is rivalling Silicon Valley with a hotbed of technology start-ups

    Stockholm is rivalling Silicon Valley

    The Swedish capital is home to two of the most popular video games in the world, as well as thousands of technology start-ups worth hundreds of millions of pounds – and it's all happened since 2009
    Did Japanese workers really get their symbols mixed up and display Santa on a crucifix?

    Crucified Santa: Urban myth refuses to die

    The story goes that Japanese store workers created a life-size effigy of a smiling "Father Kurisumasu" attached to a facsimile of Our Lord's final instrument of torture
    Jennifer Saunders and Kate Moss join David Walliams on set for TV adaptation of The Boy in the Dress

    The Boy in the Dress: On set with the stars

    Walliams' story about a boy who goes to school in a dress will be shown this Christmas