Splashes of summer light up London's finest catwalks

Something you'll find in greater supply at London Fashion Week than at the other such events is humour, and Cumbrian-born designer Giles Deacon has it in spades.

He returned to London Fashion Week yesterday with a highly entertaining spring/summer 2011 show that fused wit and flair in equal measure. Known for his appetite for pop culture and cartoon imagery, Deacon – whose label is called Giles – opened the show with brightly coloured knits depicting animals with googly eyes, worn with giant feathery pom-pom hats and chunky pink trainers.

He is often partial to pink but it always comes with a slightly twisted edge which undercuts its conventionally sweet and innocent connotations.

Accordingly, this collection featured pink silk prom dresses and long evening gowns printed with a giant sticking-plaster pattern and a long dress made of fringed pink crystal with a "beauty queen gone bad" feel.

The models, too, were styled to look like wayward Miss World contestants, while the legendary Sixties model Veruschka closed it in a long coffee-coloured dress with a feathered hem.

A much more demure, romantic vision was presented by designer Erdem Moralioglu. Since he started his label, Erdem, in 2005, his aesthetic has evolved in a coherent fashion, as he strengthens his signature repertoire of prints and decorative techniques whilst also moving forward just enough to keep his look fresh.

Shown in a garden square in Bloomsbury, Erdem's collection began with short, white, lace dresses that could entice the most determinedly single girl into thoughts of summer weddings.

More short dresses followed, in simple shift shapes or with fitted tops and fuller skirts, in plain lemon, red or navy silk embroidered with flowers, blurred blue and red prints and with Tyrolean lace details. The finale of cream maxi dresses with botanical designs was particularly beautiful.

The Scottish designer Christopher Kane's vision was altogether more subversive. His inspiration came from a box-pleated dress by Norman Hartnell from the Forties, and, despite its bold attitude, the collection was based on quite demure shapes. Late Fifties and early Sixties-style boxy skirt-suits came in lace-effect neon pink, orange and green leather, and knee-length tea dresses with sunray pleats were rendered in neon lace and a dragon-design fabric which recalled a particularly tough looking tattoo.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
SPONSORED FEATURES
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Executive or Senior Sales Executive - B2B Exhibitions

    £18000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Sales Executive or Senior Sal...

    Recruitment Genius: Head of Support Services

    £40000 - £55000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity...

    Recruitment Genius: Warehouse Team Leader

    £22000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This industry leading company produces h...

    Recruitment Genius: Business Development Manager / Sales - OTE £40,000

    £20000 - £40000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This IT provider for the educat...

    Day In a Page

    A nap a day could save your life - and here's why

    A nap a day could save your life

    A midday nap is 'associated with reduced blood pressure'
    If men are so obsessed by sex, why do they clam up when confronted with the grisly realities?

    If men are so obsessed by sex...

    ...why do they clam up when confronted with the grisly realities?
    The comedy titans of Avalon on their attempt to save BBC3

    Jon Thoday and Richard Allen-Turner

    The comedy titans of Avalon on their attempt to save BBC3
    The bathing machine is back... but with a difference

    Rolling in the deep

    The bathing machine is back but with a difference
    Part-privatised tests, new age limits, driverless cars: Tories plot motoring revolution

    Conservatives plot a motoring revolution

    Draft report reveals biggest reform to regulations since driving test introduced in 1935
    The Silk Roads that trace civilisation: Long before the West rose to power, Asian pathways were connecting peoples and places

    The Silk Roads that trace civilisation

    Long before the West rose to power, Asian pathways were connecting peoples and places
    House of Lords: Outcry as donors, fixers and MPs caught up in expenses scandal are ennobled

    The honours that shame Britain

    Outcry as donors, fixers and MPs caught up in expenses scandal are ennobled
    When it comes to street harassment, we need to talk about race

    'When it comes to street harassment, we need to talk about race'

    Why are black men living the stereotypes and why are we letting them get away with it?
    International Tap Festival: Forget Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers - this dancing is improvised, spontaneous and rhythmic

    International Tap Festival comes to the UK

    Forget Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers - this dancing is improvised, spontaneous and rhythmic
    War with Isis: Is Turkey's buffer zone in Syria a matter of self-defence – or just anti-Kurd?

    Turkey's buffer zone in Syria: self-defence – or just anti-Kurd?

    Ankara accused of exacerbating racial division by allowing Turkmen minority to cross the border
    Doris Lessing: Acclaimed novelist was kept under MI5 observation for 18 years, newly released papers show

    'A subversive brothel keeper and Communist'

    Acclaimed novelist Doris Lessing was kept under MI5 observation for 18 years, newly released papers show
    Big Blue Live: BBC's Springwatch offshoot swaps back gardens for California's Monterey Bay

    BBC heads to the Californian coast

    The Big Blue Live crew is preparing for the first of three episodes on Sunday night, filming from boats, planes and an aquarium studio
    Austin Bidwell: The Victorian fraudster who shook the Bank of England with the most daring forgery the world had known

    Victorian fraudster who shook the Bank of England

    Conman Austin Bidwell. was a heartless cad who carried out the most daring forgery the world had known
    Car hacking scandal: Security designed to stop thieves hot-wiring almost every modern motor has been cracked

    Car hacking scandal

    Security designed to stop thieves hot-wiring almost every modern motor has been cracked
    10 best placemats

    Take your seat: 10 best placemats

    Protect your table and dine in style with a bold new accessory