Spring/summer fashion trends: Same, same, but different
Friday 25 December 2009
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Judging from the looks presented on the international runways in September and October, some of the trends spotted during fall are here to stay for spring: bold shoulders, asymmetric shapes, and body-conscious dresses. The most striking differences were the bright colors used, which ranged from coral and pastel to neon hues and candy shades.
Many of the designers showing at New York Fashion Week seemed to be stuck on repeating fall's trends for spring: there was more rock'n'roll chic, asymmetry and geometric patterns, 1980s-inspired shoulder pads, and lots and lots of short dresses.
Only a few (see Marc Jacobs or Diane von Furstenberg) had had enough of the 'same old' and retreated to floral, romantic visions of natural women next spring, also reflected in the models' 'nude' make-up and wavy hair.
Other trends included safari-inspired looks in khaki shades (seen for example at Alexander Wang), bright colors, especially coral (on both the clothes and the faces), and gypsy or tribal influences, seen at Diane von Furstenberg and Rodarte. Marc Jacobs even looked to Japan to find inspiration for his much-discussed geisha look, complete with pale complexion and Japanese-inspired slippers.
London designers had the same 'vision' for spring trends but onlookers mostly agreed that their clothes were carried out in a more original, innovative way - which in turn could be a result of the general enthusiasm surrounding London Fashion Week's 25th anniversary. Also, lace and bold headpieces were having a major comeback on the British runways.
Italian designers played it safe during Milan Fashion Week. With the exception of the 'pantless look' that was part of almost every show (first pioneered by Italian luxury house Prada a decade ago), creations were as classic and elegant as ever, with casual updates of long-serving looks such as the jodhpur pant or florals.
Finally, in fashion's epicenter Paris, the fashion was all about looks that were very recently still deemed to have been 1980s faux-pas: jumpsuits, neons, and other looks inspired by the decade, such as the 'power shoulder' were part of the majority of shows, with some welcome diversions, including Céline's reworked leather basics.
A surprising trend during Paris Fashion Week was the athletic look, with designers dressing their models in cycling shorts and sweat bands. Anne Valérie Hash made a bold statement by sending her girls down the runway wearing sporty sneakers instead of the usual high heels, with Sonia Rykiel's and Louis Vuitton's models following in cycling shorts underneath skirts and dresses later in the week.
But no one took the trend as literally as Jean Paul Gaultier, head designer at Hermès: he turned his runway into a tennis lawn and had his models wear sweat bands playing tennis at the end of the show.
The flatter shoes (kitten heels, clogs) were a general trend in Paris in addition to again, the safari- or jungle-themed outfits, florals and transparency. And Britain's wild child Gareth Pugh showed a rather grown-up collection while telling the press about possible high street collaborations.
White will also be big next spring, which - as Relaxnews was told by a Paris designer - is no rocket science: it's the cheapest color out there.
Tip: If you buy just one thing for spring, make it a brightly colored, short dress (maybe with a trendy fold or draping in the front to hide winter's leftovers) that is part of almost any designer's collection and will double as a day and night outfit (see Roland Mouret's Net-à-Porter range).
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