Wisteria-print pinafores... was Stella inspired by The Good Life?

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

Stella McCartney kicked off proceedings at the Paris collections yesterday with a show that appeared to reference childhood memories of her mother's wardrobe with easy denim separates, fine-gauge knitwear and relaxed tailoring in summery shades straight out of the 1970s.

With her father Sir Paul front row, not far from the diminutive entertainer Prince, and a perky candy-coloured backdrop by the New York-based artist Trey Speegle, McCartney's offerings were (whisper it) more than a little reminiscent of Abigail's Party or perhaps the Seventies sitcom The Good Life. Pinafores and kaftans, wisteria-print sun dresses and more with buttons down the back brought to mind Felicity Kendall in battered basics and Penelope Keith swathed in acres of floating fabric. Footwear – low, cork, wedge-heeled sandals – only served to drive this particular message home. Remember those?

More youthful in flavour but still retro, and perhaps with a rather more racy daughter in mind, were tiny hot-pants in shantung silk, worn with spike heels.

While in general the collection was just as easy on the eye – and indeed the womanly form – as one might expect of this designer, the exception that proved the rule was a sequence of ultra-short frilled, pleated dresses in hotter hues that bounced about models' bodies as they were walked. These were designed to set the flashbulbs popping, and that they did, but it was difficult to imagine any woman, whatever her age or body shape, wearing them away from the catwalk.

Later, Phoebe Philo, who worked as McCartney's design assistant at Chloe, showed her first collection for Celine. Philo took over from her friend at Chloe in 2001 when McCartney started up her own label. She remained creative director of Chloe for five years, introducing an ultra-feminine aesthetic to the brand that fused its French heritage with a more street-inspired London edge. Philo was the brains behind money-spinning accessories such as the Paddington bag, elevated wooden-heeled sandals and a fossilised butterfly pendant, all beloved of young girls with fashion credentials.

She left Chloe in 2006 citing a desire to spend more time with her family. Then two years later, Bernard Arnault, the CEO of luxury good conglomerate LVMH, which owns Celine, announced that Philo was returning to revitalise the label.

If Philo's debut offering for the brand was anything to go by, she may well do just that. Celine is renowned for a more rigorous and urban aesthetic with the emphasis firmly on understated luxury.

With this firmly in mind, the designer sent out moulded leather shift dresses in discreet olive green, putty and black. Wide-legged, high-waisted trousers and fluid, knee-length jersey skirts were as chic, worn with fine bodies in subtle shades. Finally, cotton drill safari jackets and khaki tunics laced up to the throat were perfect weekend-wear for the monied Celine customer, who likes to look crisp, but when off-duty prefers not to wear her wealth on her sleeve.

PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
News
The data shows that the number of “unlawfully” large infant classes has doubled in the last 12 months alone
i100Mike Stuchbery, a teacher in Great Yarmouth, said he received abuse
Arts and Entertainment
The starship in Star Wars: The Force Awakens
filmsThe first glimpse of JJ Abrams' new film has been released online
Sport
Rio Ferdinand returns for QPR
sportRio Ferdinand returns from his three-game suspension today
News
The Speaker of the House will takes his turn as guest editor of the Today programme
arts + ents
News
people

Watch the spoof Thanksgiving segment filmed for Live!
Sport
Billy Twelvetrees will start for England against Australia tomorrow with Owen Farrell dropping to the bench
rugbyEngland need a victory against Australia today
Arts and Entertainment
The cover of The Guest Cat – expect to see it everywhere
books
Sport
Tyson Fury poses outside the Imperial War Museum in south London ahead of his fight against Dereck Chisora
boxingAll British heavyweight clash gets underway on Saturday night
News
i100 Charity collates series of videos that show acts of kindness to animals
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Opilio Recruitment: QA Automation Engineer

    £30k - 38k per year + Benefits: Opilio Recruitment: An award-winning consume...

    Opilio Recruitment: UX & Design Specialist

    £40k - 45k per year + Benefits: Opilio Recruitment: A fantastic opportunity ...

    Opilio Recruitment: Publishing Application Support Analyst

    £30k - 35k per year + Benefits: Opilio Recruitment: We’re currently re...

    Opilio Recruitment: Digital Marketing Manager

    £35k - 45k per year + benefits: Opilio Recruitment: A fantastic opportunity ...

    Day In a Page

    Homeless Veterans Christmas Appeal: ‘We give them hope. They come to us when no one else can help’

    Christmas Appeal

    Meet the charity giving homeless veterans hope – and who they turn to when no one else can help
    Should doctors and patients learn to plan humane, happier endings rather than trying to prolong life?

    Is it always right to try to prolong life?

    Most of us would prefer to die in our own beds, with our families beside us. But, as a GP, Margaret McCartney sees too many end their days in a medicalised battle
    Thomas Cook's outgoing boss Harriet Green got by on four hours sleep a night - is that what it takes for women to get to the top?

    What does it take for women to get to the top?

    Thomas Cook's outgoing boss Harriet Green got by on four hours sleep a night and told women they had to do more if they wanted to get on
    Christmas jumper craze: Inside the UK factory behind this year's multicultural must-have

    Knitting pretty: British Christmas Jumpers

    Simmy Richman visits Jack Masters, the company behind this year's multicultural must-have
    French chefs have launched a campaign to end violence in kitchens - should British restaurants follow suit?

    French chefs campaign against bullying

    A group of top chefs signed a manifesto against violence in kitchens following the sacking of a chef at a Paris restaurant for scalding his kitchen assistant with a white-hot spoon
    Radio 4 to broadcast 10-hour War and Peace on New Year's Day as Controller warns of cuts

    Just what you need on a New Year hangover...

    Radio 4 to broadcast 10-hour adaptation of War and Peace on first day of 2015
    Cuba set to stage its first US musical in 50 years

    Cuba to stage first US musical in 50 years

    Claire Allfree finds out if the new production of Rent will hit the right note in Havana
    Christmas 2014: 10 best educational toys

    Learn and play: 10 best educational toys

    Of course you want them to have fun, but even better if they can learn at the same time
    Paul Scholes column: I like Brendan Rodgers as a manager but Liverpool seem to be going backwards not forwards this season

    Paul Scholes column

    I like Brendan Rodgers as a manager but Liverpool seem to be going backwards not forwards this season
    Lewis Moody column: Stuart Lancaster has made all the right calls – now England must deliver

    Lewis Moody: Lancaster has made all the right calls – now England must deliver

    So what must the red-rose do differently? They have to take the points on offer 
    Cameron, Miliband and Clegg join forces for Homeless Veterans campaign

    Cameron, Miliband and Clegg join forces for Homeless Veterans campaign

    It's in all our interests to look after servicemen and women who fall on hard times, say party leaders
    Millionaire Sol Campbell wades into wealthy backlash against Labour's mansion tax

    Sol Campbell cries foul at Labour's mansion tax

    The former England defender joins Myleene Klass, Griff Rhys Jones and Melvyn Bragg in criticising proposals
    Nicolas Sarkozy returns: The ex-President is preparing to fight for the leadership of France's main opposition party – but will he win big enough?

    Sarkozy returns

    The ex-President is preparing to fight for the leadership of France's main opposition party – but will he win big enough?
    Is the criticism of Ed Miliband a coded form of anti-Semitism?

    Is the criticism of Miliband anti-Semitic?

    Attacks on the Labour leader have coalesced around a sense that he is different, weird, a man apart. But is the criticism more sinister?
    Ouija boards are the must-have gift this Christmas, fuelled by a schlock horror film

    Ouija boards are the must-have festive gift

    Simon Usborne explores the appeal - and mysteries - of a century-old parlour game