Paris menswear shows end on manly note

Lanvin went for a more masculine look on the final day of the Paris spring-summer menswear shows on Sunday and Black Eyed Peas frontman will.i.am made his runway debut for Rynshu.

With the sun blazing through the glass dome of the old Paris mercantile exchange, Lanvin delighted its fans with a deliberately wide-ranging collection from colourful suits to hooded jackets.

"We introduced fragility a few years ago when we started Lanvin menswear and I think this season it was time to be a little more masculine," said the venerable French label's menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver.

Standing out were the suits, in both single- and double-breasted versions, including one in polished leather and four others - impressively sent out one after another - in orange, blue, burgundy, purple and yellow shades.

Tailoring was scapel-sharp and shoulders padded just enough to subtly suggest an aura of manly strength.

"We propose options for different men, different body types, different ages," the Dutch-born designer, who works closely with Alber Ebaz, Lanvin's creative director, told reporters.

"It's really about individuality ... We really wanted to give strength back to men."

Noteworthy in several of Lanvin's outfits was the appearance of neckties - virtually unseen in any of the other 49 menswear shows that began on Wednesday - and footwear morphed from military boots to sandals.

Later on Sunday, Japanese designer Rynshu credited Rutger Hauer, a longtime customer, for inspiring a collection that drew from the Dutch actor's role as a chieftain in the 1982 sci-fi classic "Blade Runner".

Neo-Goth jackets and vinyl trench coats were unlikely to make it to the sales rack in the one-armed versions seen on the grey-carpet runway, but the young and daring might try spaceman-silver suits with cigarette-slim trousers.

Closing the show in a collarless leather get-up was will.i.am (real name: William Adams), whose visit to Rynshu's boutique in Tokyo four months ago has blossomed into a creative relationship with the designer.

"We're going to collaborate on a couple of pieces in the near future," the rapper said backstage. "It was a pleasure to lend myself to his fashion show today because I'm a fan of his ... His clothes are like art. It's cool."

Rynshu threw a few women's looks into the mix, including skinny jeans with punkish slashes down the legs and a minimal chiffon dress perfect for the emo girl who'd rather wear black on her wedding day.

In a sartorial salute to the heyday of cabaret, New York designer Thom Browne - who relishes pushing the Ivy League preppy look to extremes - took over Maxim's nightclub for a characteristically spectacular show.

He had his models wander somnambulistically around the tables in exaggerated pinstripe suits, tassled trenchcoats and elongated coats that mirrored the lines of his womenswear collection.

Many sported teashade sunglasses, collapsed umbrellas, deerstalker hats with tassles down over the eyes, or miniature Charlie Chaplin bowlers. Everyone wore slicked-back hair.

Formal wear featured a tassled black jacket with red sash belt and sequined trousers that dazzled in the dim light, while a hooded grey leisure jacket was matched with a minimal kilt.

What's for sale in his stores is far more wearable, but his flare for the theatrical - last season he recreated a Mad Hatter's dinner party - makes Browne one of the most entertaining designers to show in Paris.

Life and Style
Steve Shaw shows Kate how to get wet behind the ears and how to align her neck
healthSteven Shaw - the 'Buddha of Breaststroke' - applies Alexander Technique to the watery sport
Sport
footballShirt then goes on sale on Gumtree
Voices
Terry Sue-Patt as Benny in the BBC children’s soap ‘Grange Hill’
voicesGrace Dent on Grange Hill and Terry Sue-Patt
Arts and Entertainment
The sight of a bucking bronco in the shape of a pink penis was too much for Hollywood actor and gay rights supporter Martin Sheen, prompting him to boycott a scene in the TV series Grace and Frankie
tv
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Guru Careers: Software Developer / C# Developer

    £40-50K: Guru Careers: We are seeking an experienced Software / C# Developer w...

    Guru Careers: Software Developer

    £35 - 40k + Benefits: Guru Careers: We are seeking a Software Developer (JavaS...

    SThree: Trainee Recruitment Consultant / Resourcer

    £18000 - £23000 per annum + Commission: SThree: As a Trainee Recruitment Consu...

    Ashdown Group: UI Developer - (UI, HTML, CSS, JavaScript, AngularJS)

    £25000 - £40000 per annum: Ashdown Group: UI Developer - (UI, JavaScript, HTML...

    Day In a Page

    Abuse - and the hell that came afterwards

    Abuse - and the hell that follows

    James Rhodes on the extraordinary legal battle to publish his memoir
    Why we need a 'tranquility map' of England, according to campaigners

    It's oh so quiet!

    The case for a 'tranquility map' of England
    'Timeless fashion': It may be a paradox, but the industry loves it

    'Timeless fashion'

    It may be a paradox, but the industry loves it
    If the West needs a bridge to the 'moderates' inside Isis, maybe we could have done with Osama bin Laden staying alive after all

    Could have done with Osama bin Laden staying alive?

    Robert Fisk on the Fountainheads of World Evil in 2011 - and 2015
    New exhibition celebrates the evolution of swimwear

    Evolution of swimwear

    From bathing dresses in the twenties to modern bikinis
    Sun, sex and an anthropological study: One British academic's summer of hell in Magaluf

    Sun, sex and an anthropological study

    One academic’s summer of hell in Magaluf
    From Shakespeare to Rising Damp... to Vicious

    Frances de la Tour's 50-year triumph

    'Rising Damp' brought De la Tour such recognition that she could be forgiven if she'd never been able to move on. But at 70, she continues to flourish - and to beguile
    'That Whitsun, I was late getting away...'

    Ian McMillan on the Whitsun Weddings

    This weekend is Whitsun, and while the festival may no longer resonate, Larkin's best-loved poem, lives on - along with the train journey at the heart of it
    Kathryn Williams explores the works and influences of Sylvia Plath in a new light

    Songs from the bell jar

    Kathryn Williams explores the works and influences of Sylvia Plath
    How one man's day in high heels showed him that Cannes must change its 'no flats' policy

    One man's day in high heels

    ...showed him that Cannes must change its 'flats' policy
    Is a quiet crusade to reform executive pay bearing fruit?

    Is a quiet crusade to reform executive pay bearing fruit?

    Dominic Rossi of Fidelity says his pressure on business to control rewards is working. But why aren’t other fund managers helping?
    The King David Hotel gives precious work to Palestinians - unless peace talks are on

    King David Hotel: Palestinians not included

    The King David is special to Jerusalem. Nick Kochan checked in and discovered it has some special arrangements, too
    More people moving from Australia to New Zealand than in the other direction for first time in 24 years

    End of the Aussie brain drain

    More people moving from Australia to New Zealand than in the other direction for first time in 24 years
    Meditation is touted as a cure for mental instability but can it actually be bad for you?

    Can meditation be bad for you?

    Researching a mass murder, Dr Miguel Farias discovered that, far from bringing inner peace, meditation can leave devotees in pieces
    Eurovision 2015: Australians will be cheering on their first-ever entrant this Saturday

    Australia's first-ever Eurovision entrant

    Australia, a nation of kitsch-worshippers, has always loved the Eurovision Song Contest. Maggie Alderson says it'll fit in fine