Paris menswear shows end on manly note

Lanvin went for a more masculine look on the final day of the Paris spring-summer menswear shows on Sunday and Black Eyed Peas frontman will.i.am made his runway debut for Rynshu.

With the sun blazing through the glass dome of the old Paris mercantile exchange, Lanvin delighted its fans with a deliberately wide-ranging collection from colourful suits to hooded jackets.

"We introduced fragility a few years ago when we started Lanvin menswear and I think this season it was time to be a little more masculine," said the venerable French label's menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver.

Standing out were the suits, in both single- and double-breasted versions, including one in polished leather and four others - impressively sent out one after another - in orange, blue, burgundy, purple and yellow shades.

Tailoring was scapel-sharp and shoulders padded just enough to subtly suggest an aura of manly strength.

"We propose options for different men, different body types, different ages," the Dutch-born designer, who works closely with Alber Ebaz, Lanvin's creative director, told reporters.

"It's really about individuality ... We really wanted to give strength back to men."

Noteworthy in several of Lanvin's outfits was the appearance of neckties - virtually unseen in any of the other 49 menswear shows that began on Wednesday - and footwear morphed from military boots to sandals.

Later on Sunday, Japanese designer Rynshu credited Rutger Hauer, a longtime customer, for inspiring a collection that drew from the Dutch actor's role as a chieftain in the 1982 sci-fi classic "Blade Runner".

Neo-Goth jackets and vinyl trench coats were unlikely to make it to the sales rack in the one-armed versions seen on the grey-carpet runway, but the young and daring might try spaceman-silver suits with cigarette-slim trousers.

Closing the show in a collarless leather get-up was will.i.am (real name: William Adams), whose visit to Rynshu's boutique in Tokyo four months ago has blossomed into a creative relationship with the designer.

"We're going to collaborate on a couple of pieces in the near future," the rapper said backstage. "It was a pleasure to lend myself to his fashion show today because I'm a fan of his ... His clothes are like art. It's cool."

Rynshu threw a few women's looks into the mix, including skinny jeans with punkish slashes down the legs and a minimal chiffon dress perfect for the emo girl who'd rather wear black on her wedding day.

In a sartorial salute to the heyday of cabaret, New York designer Thom Browne - who relishes pushing the Ivy League preppy look to extremes - took over Maxim's nightclub for a characteristically spectacular show.

He had his models wander somnambulistically around the tables in exaggerated pinstripe suits, tassled trenchcoats and elongated coats that mirrored the lines of his womenswear collection.

Many sported teashade sunglasses, collapsed umbrellas, deerstalker hats with tassles down over the eyes, or miniature Charlie Chaplin bowlers. Everyone wore slicked-back hair.

Formal wear featured a tassled black jacket with red sash belt and sequined trousers that dazzled in the dim light, while a hooded grey leisure jacket was matched with a minimal kilt.

What's for sale in his stores is far more wearable, but his flare for the theatrical - last season he recreated a Mad Hatter's dinner party - makes Browne one of the most entertaining designers to show in Paris.

PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
News
Alan Bennett criticised the lack of fairness in British society encapsulated by the private school system
peopleBut he does like Stewart Lee
Sport
John Terry, Frank Lampard
footballChelsea captain sends signed shirt to fan whose mum had died
Life and Style
food + drink
Arts and Entertainment
Rita Ora will replace Kylie Minogue as a judge on The Voice 2015
tv
Life and Style
tech
Life and Style
Alan Turing, who was convicted of gross indecency in 1952, was granted a royal pardon last year
life
Arts and Entertainment
Sheridan Smith as Cilla Black and Ed Stoppard as her manager Brian Epstein
tvCilla Episode 2 review: Grit under the glamour in part two of biopic series starring Sheridan Smith
Life and Style
life
Arts and Entertainment
Tennis player Andy Murray's mum Judy has been paired with Anton du Beke for Strictly Come Dancing. 'I'm absolutely delighted,' she said.
tvJudy Murray 'struggling' to let Anton Du Beke take control on Strictly
Life and Style
Vote with your wallet: the app can help shoppers feel more informed about items on sale
lifeNew app reveals political leanings of food companies
Sport
David Moyes and Louis van Gaal
football
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Teaching Assistant in secondary school Manchester

    £11280 - £14400 per annum: Randstad Education Manchester Secondary: Teaching a...

    Primary teaching roles in Ipswich

    £21552 - £31588 per annum: Randstad Education Cambridge: Randstad Education re...

    Science teachers needed in Norwich

    £21000 - £35000 per annum: Randstad Education Cambridge: Science teachers requ...

    Semi Senior Accountant - Music

    £30000 - £35000 per annum: Sauce Recruitment: A successful, Central London bas...

    Day In a Page

    Secret politics of the weekly shop

    The politics of the weekly shop

    New app reveals political leanings of food companies
    Beam me up, Scottie!

    Beam me up, Scottie!

    Celebrity Trekkies from Alex Salmond to Barack Obama
    Beware Wet Paint: The ICA's latest ambitious exhibition

    Beware Wet Paint

    The ICA's latest ambitious exhibition
    Pink Floyd have produced some of rock's greatest ever album covers

    Pink Floyd have produced some of rock's greatest ever album covers

    Can 'The Endless River' carry on the tradition?
    Sanctuary for the suicidal

    Sanctuary for the suicidal

    One mother's story of how London charity Maytree helped her son with his depression
    A roller-coaster tale from the 'voice of a generation'

    Not That Kind of Girl:

    A roller-coaster tale from 'voice of a generation' Lena Dunham
    London is not bedlam or a cradle of vice. In fact it, as much as anywhere, deserves independence

    London is not bedlam or a cradle of vice

    In fact it, as much as anywhere, deserves independence
    Vivienne Westwood 'didn’t want' relationship with Malcolm McLaren

    Vivienne Westwood 'didn’t want' relationship with McLaren

    Designer 'felt pressured' into going out with Sex Pistols manager
    Jourdan Dunn: Model mother

    Model mother

    Jordan Dunn became one of the best-paid models in the world
    Apple still coolest brand – despite U2 PR disaster

    Apple still the coolest brand

    Despite PR disaster of free U2 album
    Scottish referendum: The Yes vote was the love that dared speak its name, but it was not to be

    Despite the result, this is the end of the status quo

    Boyd Tonkin on the fall-out from the Scottish referendum
    Manolo Blahnik: The high priest of heels talks flats, Englishness, and why he loves Mary Beard

    Manolo Blahnik: Flats, Englishness, and Mary Beard

    The shoe designer who has been dubbed 'the patron saint of the stiletto'
    The Beatles biographer reveals exclusive original manuscripts of some of the best pop songs ever written

    Scrambled eggs and LSD

    Behind The Beatles' lyrics - thanks to Hunter Davis's original manuscript copies
    'Normcore' fashion: Blending in is the new standing out in latest catwalk non-trend

    'Normcore': Blending in is the new standing out

    Just when fashion was in grave danger of running out of trends, it only went and invented the non-trend. Rebecca Gonsalves investigates
    Dance’s new leading ladies fight back: How female vocalists are now writing their own hits

    New leading ladies of dance fight back

    How female vocalists are now writing their own hits