Phoebe Philo makes Paris comeback at Celine

(AFP) -

Phoebe Philo was welcomed back like a prodigal daughter on Monday when she unveiled her debut collection for the luxury label Celine in a packed venue near the Ritz in Paris.

The British designer who took the fashion world by surprise when she resigned the top job at Chloe to devote herself to motherhood, does not seem to have lost the sure touch which earned her plaudits there.

For next spring-summer she presented clean and unfussy lines using lots of glove-smooth leather in black, ochre and tan for body-hugging short sleeved tops, worn over fluid, wide pants in honey and flesh tones, simple shifts and A-line skirts.

It was classic and classy, but with quirky twists which took the collection to a whole new level: like the dippy double peplum on the back of a khaki sports jacket, the unexpected epaulettes on a black cocktail frock, exaggerated pussycat bows on blouses, outsize sleeveless dresses that could not decide whether they were trying to be trench coats or safari jackets, and leather spencers which barely skimmed the bosom.

Philo's erstwhile boss at Chloe before she left to create her own label, Stella McCartney, presented her collection earlier Monday, which of course did not include any leather as it is against her vegetarian principles.

It was her characteristic blend of sharp masculine tailoring with femininity, featuring jackets without lapels in crisp shantung over high-waisted wrap trousers alongside wisteria print sundresses and denim skirts with strappy low wedgies inspired by her late mother Linda.

Her dad, Sir Paul, applauded from the front row along with actresses Charlotte Rampling and Gwyneth Paltrow.

"I try to give a woman some sort of elegance, energy, make her feel like she is in control of her wardrobe," she told AFP after the show. "It's not about aggression or power. It's about being positive, being a real woman -- my kind of woman, anyway."

Marcel Marongiu at Guy Laroche imagined a woman lost in the desert for his spring-summer collection in which the models had to negotiate a runway covered in sand in their toeless high-heeled ankle boots.

Perhaps the poor girl borrowed her boyfriend's biker jacket with studs and zips to turn into a makeshift leather skirt, with the sleeves knotted at the waist.

The look was sexy, even raunchy, while remaining practical and wearable, and did not resort to baring lingerie as seen all over the catwalks here this week.

There was an elegant nonchalance about his chiffony dresses ruched around a central seam in an abstract print of grey and sand, oatmeal loose weave linen separates, grey lurex sweaters and even second-skin black lycra dresses with metallic appliques cut away to reveal a bare midriff or back.

Leonard's founder Daniel Tribouillard found a new source of inspiration for the house's famous prints: the fine traditional Imari porcelain of Japan's second city Kyoto, which mingles cobalt, indigo and navy blues with brilliant white.

"It's part of my own collection which I have been bringing back for years," says Tribouillard, emphasising that the designs were quite different from the Chinese porcelain which he has often incorporated into his floral prints.

He said the print was "quieter" than usual, for women who want to wear something luxurious but with discretion in these financially-straitened times.

Designer Veronique Leroy turned the patterned silks and jerseys into floaty maxi scarf dresses, short sundresses and wide-legged jumpsuits, shown on fresh-faced models with loose, long hair.



Arts and Entertainment
The Ridiculous Six has been produced by Adam Sandler, who also stars in it
filmNew controversy after nine Native American actors walked off set
Life and Style
The original ZX Spectrum was simple to plug into your TV and get playing on
techThirty years on, the ZX Spectrum is back, after a fashion
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Senior Digital Marketing Consultant

    £28000 - £45000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Senior Digital Marketing Cons...

    Recruitment Genius: Assistant Stores Keeper

    £16640 - £18500 per annum: Recruitment Genius: An Assistant Stores Keeper is r...

    Recruitment Genius: Claims Administrator

    £16000 - £18500 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an excellent opportunit...

    Recruitment Genius: Software Developer - C# / ASP.NET / SQL

    £17000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Developer required to join a bu...

    Day In a Page

    'It was first time I had ever tasted chocolate. I kept a piece, and when Amsterdam was liberated, I gave it to the first Allied soldier I saw'

    Bread from heaven

    Dutch survivors thank RAF for World War II drop that saved millions
    Britain will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power - Labour

    How 'the Axe' helped Labour

    UK will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power
    Rare and exclusive video shows the horrific price paid by activists for challenging the rule of jihadist extremists in Syria

    The price to be paid for challenging the rule of extremists

    A revolution now 'consuming its own children'
    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    300 players take part in Watch the Skies! board game in London
    'Nymphomaniac' actress reveals what it was really like to star in one of the most explicit films ever

    Charlotte Gainsbourg on 'Nymphomaniac'

    Starring in one of the most explicit films ever
    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi: The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers

    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi

    The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers
    Vince Cable interview: Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'

    Vince Cable exclusive interview

    Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'
    Iwan Rheon interview: Game of Thrones star returns to his Welsh roots to record debut album

    Iwan Rheon is returning to his Welsh roots

    Rheon is best known for his role as the Bastard of Bolton. It's gruelling playing a sadistic torturer, he tells Craig McLean, but it hasn't stopped him recording an album of Welsh psychedelia
    Russell Brand's interview with Ed Miliband has got everyone talking about The Trews

    Everyone is talking about The Trews

    Russell Brand's 'true news' videos attract millions of viewers. But today's 'Milibrand' interview introduced his resolutely amateurish style to a whole new crowd
    Morne Hardenberg interview: Cameraman for BBC's upcoming show Shark on filming the ocean's most dangerous predator

    It's time for my close-up

    Meet the man who films great whites for a living
    Increasing numbers of homeless people in America keep their mobile phones on the streets

    Homeless people keep mobile phones

    A homeless person with a smartphone is a common sight in the US. And that's creating a network where the 'hobo' community can share information - and fight stigma - like never before
    'Queer saint' Peter Watson left his mark on British culture by bankrolling artworld giants

    'Queer saint' who bankrolled artworld giants

    British culture owes a huge debt to Peter Watson, says Michael Prodger
    Pushkin Prizes: Unusual exchange programme aims to bring countries together through culture

    Pushkin Prizes brings countries together

    Ten Scottish schoolchildren and their Russian peers attended a creative writing workshop in the Highlands this week
    14 best kids' hoodies

    14 best kids' hoodies

    Don't get caught out by that wind on the beach. Zip them up in a lightweight top to see them through summer to autumn
    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi: The acceptable face of the Emirates

    The acceptable face of the Emirates

    Has Abu Dhabi found a way to blend petrodollars with principles, asks Robert Fisk