Food and Drink" Bites fishes out more good seafood specialists
Saturday 20 March 1999
Hotel Continental 29 Beach Walk, Whitstable, Kent (01227 280280). Lunch and dinner daily. Newer sibling of the more famous Whitstable Oyster Fishery Company restaurant, this restored seafront art deco hotel dining room has a great value set-price menu at pounds 9.50 for lunch, pounds 12.50 for dinner. Though meat and fish get equal billing, seafood steals the show. Not the luxury end of the catch, but mussels are plump and lovely, plaice spanking fresh. Also oysters, fish soup and herring roe and bacon on toast for old-fashioned comfort.
Rasa Samudra 5 Charlotte Street, London W1 (0171-637 0222). Mon-Sat lunch and dinner. Another development from chef turned restaurateur Sivadas Sreedharan, who introduced north and central London to the exquisite vegetarian cooking of his native Kerala at his two Rasa restaurants. Now it's south Indian seafood's turn and it's unlikely you'll find dishes such as koondal olathiathu (squid cooked with onions, ginger, curry leaves, green pepper and fresh coconut slices), and para konju nirachathu (lobster served with lemon rice and beetroot curry), anywhere else. Around pounds 25 a head without drinks.
Offshore 148 Holland Park Avenue, London W11 (0171-221 6090). Lunch and dinner daily. Latest offspring from a Mauritian chef with a couple of other London fish restaurants. Exotic seafood is cooked with a marriage of the French, Indian, Chinese and Caribbean influences that have shaped Mauritian cuisine. Sauces can lack subtlety, which may detract from the impressive freshness of snapper and grouper, or, in the case of tiger prawns we sniffed suspiciously, disguise it. Why - and where - was the alien tuber in fish soup that boasted the inclusion of sweet potato? Frustrating. Two-course lunch pounds 14.50, three courses pounds 18; dinner around pounds 30 without drink.
J Sheekey 28-32 St Martin's Court, London WC2 (0171-240 2565). Lunch and dinner daily. Old-stager of a fish restaurant in theatreland, consists of wood-panelled dining rooms and a mirrored bar gloriously revived by the owners of The Ivy and Le Caprice. Seafood dishes through the ages, from lemon sole belle meuniere, timeless classics - grilled Dover sole or haddock and chips - to brandade of salt cod, heady with garlic and parsley, and peppered bluefin tuna with Italian barley and herb salsa. Seaweed's a side order, and bread costs pounds 1.50. The pace of service can be dizzying, the quota of star customers head-turning. With gingery treacle tart or trifle for afters the bill can hit pounds 40 a head for the works, pounds 25 to pounds 30 without drinks.
Tir-a-Mor 1-3 Mona Terrace, Criccieth, Gwynedd, Wales (01766 523084). Mon-Sat dinner. The name means land and sea in Welsh, and the townhouse restaurant in the seaside birthplace of Lloyd George is such a beacon for its use of good local produce, fish in particular, that it was recently named Best Seafood Restaurant in the Red Book guide to Wales. Wild sea bass baked whole stuffed with herbs, red mullet with a bouillabaisse sauce, king scallops with capers and sage typify a Mediterranean approach. Desserts keep up Italian emphasis, with home-made ices or panna cotta. The furniture's pine, there's a lack of pomp. One sitting an evening, pounds 20 without drink
Life & Style blogs
NHS struggling to monitor the safety and efficacy of its services outsourced to private providers
Airline food across the classes: Ever wondered what the other half are eating?
Coachella Festival 2015: from Kendall Jenner to Alexa Chung, stars and festival-goers parade their boho best
What do the emoji on Snapchat mean?
Huawei P8 review: best phones nobody's seen from the biggest company nobody's heard
If I’m being racially abused I don’t need a stranger with a saviour complex to rescue me
The only black face in the Ukip manifesto is on the page about overseas aid
Ukip is the only main political party to not address LGBT rights in its manifesto
Food banks: One million Britons will soon be using them, according to Trussell Trust
Religion isn't growing, it is becoming vigorous in its demise, says philosopher AC Grayling
BBC election debate: The one photo that summed up the whole 90-minute leaders debate
- 1 Alan Rickman admits editing 'terrible' script with friends in Pizza Hut behind backs of writers on Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves
- 2 Rarest Beanie Baby of them all could be sold for £62,500 on eBay
- 3 Driving while dehydrated can be just as dangerous as drink driving, study suggests
- 4 Ben Affleck asked TV chiefs to hide slave-owning ancestry, new hacked Sony emails published by Wikileaks claim
- 5 Farmer told to tear down mock-Tudor castle after hiding construction behind hay bales
£18000 - £23000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: They work with major vehicle ma...
£16500 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Chiropractic Assistant is needed in a ...
£18000 - £26000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: They work with major vehicle ma...
£28000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This company provides coaching ...