Al Duca

No surprises that this vibrant terrazzo is yet another Claudio Pulze brainchild. Located in one of my favourite London haunts – St James’s – Al Duca is, on any given day, packed with patrons from the world of art, retail and media, all in pursuit of the perfect repast and rarely leaving unfulfilled.

Sleek Italian glass panels, smart banquette seating, pastel shades, recessed lighting and French windows opening out on to a front terrace all enhance the ambience and set a lively stage for an even livelier menu, created by Al Duca’s prodigious talent, chef Aaron Johnson.

General manager Salvatore Brocco, aided by enterprising restaurant manager Luca Mazzoncini, is the very epitome of Italian warmth and hospitality. This shows in the way you’re greeted and pampered – nothing is too much trouble here. Soon after we’re seated, the ubiquitous bellinis appear, as if by magic, announcing the start of a soon-to-be memorable culinary foray into the Italian regions.

We simply can’t resist two antipasti house specialities – the involtino of pasta filo (ricotta and sun-blushed tomatoes wrapped in filo pastry with baby spinach and a balsamic vinegar dressing) and the char-grilled squid with cherry tomatoes, fennel purée and squid ink dressing – both packed with flavour and clear evidence that Johnson has more than a few aces up his sleeve. And so it proves: with fluid dexterity, he sends out two more quite original dishes. These are a spot-on poached wild sea bass with crushed roasted potatoes and black olive tapenade and an irresistible beef fillet escalope with char-grilled cos lettuce and pizzaiola sauce. This is patient, skilful cooking at its best, especially the fillet, which has the texture of butter as it simply glides off the knife.

I can seldom resist dessert in any restaurant, never mind an Italian one, and the desserts offered at Al Duca reduced my resistance to an all-time low. Take your pick from fresh pineapple (infused with Cognac and mint) with coconut sorbet, a quite revelatory vanilla panna cotta with strawberries and balsamic vinegar, and a dense, rich chocolate marquise with caramel sauce, all a fitting finale to this simply marvellous extravaganza.

SELECTED SIGNATURE PAIRINGS

Char-grilled squid, cherry tomatoes, fennel puree and squid ink dressing; paired with Gallo, Laguna Vineyards Chardonnay Russian River Valley

Bottarga spaghetti with courgettes and grey mullett; paired with Gallo, Sonoma County Chardonnay

Beef fillet escalope with char-grilled cos lettuce and pizzaiola sauce; paired with Gallo, Frei Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley

To find out more about Gallo Family Vineyards wine visit www.gallofamily.co.uk.

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