Cantina Vinopolis

Underneath massive Victorian railway arches, just south of the River Thames, lies Cantina Vinopolis, an oasis of calm tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Borough Market and the rejuvenated South Bank. The restaurant makes the most of its setting, with exposed brickwork, an open-plan, stainless steel “theatre” kitchen and matching pendant lamps creating an informal brasserie atmosphere.

Cantina’s wine list, presented by wine steward Anastasia Zinkevich, is one of the largest and finest in the UK – and so it should be because the restaurant’s attached to the Vinopolis wine museum. With so many wines available by the glass, you get the rare opportunity to try out something new and different with each course.

If the wine is the main attraction here, let’s not forget the food, created by extraordinarily skilled chef Moges Wolde, who makes it work consistently well with the wine list. His starters include a sashimi of salmon, which is quite unusual but delicately delicious, and Thai-style duck and chicken spring rolls, which are tender and meaty, with accompanying pickled vegetables that add just the right amount of tang. This finger food is almost good enough to make you cancel your main course!

The generously served mains don’t let us down, though. My friend’s veal roulade with spring onion mash was pronounced tender and very tasty, while my spring onion pancakes, filled with wild mushrooms, were divine. General manger Shan Muralidhar demonstrated his appreciation of fine wines by cleverly complementing my pancakes with a chilled red Brouilly 2003 – and it worked! I’d also recommend a side order of assiette of stuffed vegetables for anyone who wants something more interesting than your usual sides. Highlights included onion filled with couscous and stuffed red peppers brimming with risotto.

For me, though, desserts top the meal. The signature cinnamon parfait with port-mulled pear is a delicious, slip-down-your-throat affair, but if you’re in a chocolate mood, then try the white chocolate chip cheesecake. It has a dreamily coarse texture and, with its strawberry compote, is something I could have again and again.

My happy conclusion – if your bag is exploring great food and wine at great prices, then Cantina is definitely worth the excursion.

SELECTED SIGNATURE DISHES

Tian of smoked chicken and avocado with beetroot tartar; paired with Gallo, Laguna Vineyards Chardonnay Russian River Valley

Pan-fried scallops with beetroot tartar; paired with Gallo, Coastal Vineyards Pinot Gris

Barbary duck breast with roasted vegetables, bok choy and sweet cherry sauce; paired with Gallo, Coastal Vineyards Pinot Noir

To find out more about Gallo Family Vineyards wine visit www.gallofamily.co.uk.

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