Anthony Rose: 'Celebrate October with delicious autumnal reds that go with game'

 

I'm no more a fan of the so-called Glorious 12th than your average grouse served trussed-up in haste. It seems as unseasonably early for game as the premature kick-off to the football season. October is true autumn and, for me, that means game of the pheasant, guinea fowl and partridge variety. So this week, I'm celebrating the month with delicious autumnal reds to go with our feathered friends.

First thoughts drift to pinot noir: France is not normally the country I'd immediately look at for good-value pinot noir, but the distinctive 2011 Puy de Dôme Pinot Noir from Cave de Saint Verny, £11.99, buy two = £8.99, Majestic, is a pleasurable exception.

Further afield, I find the strawberryish 2011 De Bortoli Gulf Station Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, £11.99, Sainsbury's, hard to beat for price. I visited the Bodega Chacra in Patagonia and was impressed by their 2011 Barda Pinot Noir, £18.95, Lea & Sandeman (020-7244 0522), beautifully perfumed with fraise du bois with a lively, savoury aftertaste.

Next stop Tuscany, with the requisite savoury freshness that effortlessly complements game and poultry. For chianti on a budget, try the spicy herb and sour-cherryish quality of the 2009 The Exquisite Collection Chianti Classico Riserva, £8.99, Aldi, due on shelf on Monday, and the succulent sweet-and-sour-cherry 2009 Lavacchio Chianti Rufina 'Cedro', £13.95, Harvey Nichols, swig.co.uk (020-8995 7060). For sheer liquid joy, the 2010 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico, £21.50, Worth Brothers (01534 262051), is an exquisite red of subtle fragrance, seamless cherry-and-mulberry fruitiness that finishes beautifully dry.

To linger in Tuscany would be a disservice to Piedmont, land of the mouthwatering barbera grape and great barolo. Barbera's sea-change in quality makes it particularly suited to game and poultry in wines such as the 2010 GD Vajra Barbera d'Alba, £23, Hedonism Wines (020-7989 0085), a wine whose delicate oak rounding out its clarity of red-berry fruits is cut by such incisive freshness that it finishes appetisingly dry. The same goes for the finely oaked, loganberry-fruity 2011 Sottimano Barbera d'Alba Pairolero, £22.95, Lea & Sandeman.

Game birds may be temporarily relieved to know that I'll keep most of my barolo powder dry for the festive season, but if something exceptional to salivate over is required in the meantime, the 2008 Massolino Barolo Parafada, £46, Laithwaites (0845 1947720), is classic nebbiolo, full of the scent of spice and dried violets, with a succulent, spicy, red-fruited quality that's all about class and finesse.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
SPONSORED FEATURES
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Recruitment Genius: Graphic Designer - Product Development

    £26000 - £29000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: The Product Development departm...

    Recruitment Genius: Assistant Manager - Visitor Fundraising

    £23000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: The Visitor Fundraising Team is responsi...

    Recruitment Genius: Developer

    £30000 - £35000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an opportunity to join ...

    Recruitment Genius: Estates Contracts & Leases Manager

    £30000 - £34000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: The Estates Team of this group ...

    Day In a Page

    Orthorexia nervosa: How becoming obsessed with healthy eating can lead to malnutrition

    Orthorexia nervosa

    How becoming obsessed with healthy eating can lead to malnutrition
    Lady Chatterley is not obscene, says TV director

    Lady Chatterley’s Lover

    Director Jed Mercurio on why DH Lawrence's novel 'is not an obscene story'
    Farmers in tropical forests are training ants to kill off bigger pests

    Set a pest to catch a pest

    Farmers in tropical forests are training ants to kill off bigger pests
    Mexico: A culture that celebrates darkness as an essential part of life

    The dark side of Mexico

    A culture that celebrates darkness as an essential part of life
    Being sexually assaulted was not your fault, Chrissie Hynde. Don't tell other victims it was theirs

    Being sexually assaulted was not your fault, Chrissie Hynde

    Please don't tell other victims it was theirs
    A nap a day could save your life - and here's why

    A nap a day could save your life

    A midday nap is 'associated with reduced blood pressure'
    If men are so obsessed by sex, why do they clam up when confronted with the grisly realities?

    If men are so obsessed by sex...

    ...why do they clam up when confronted with the grisly realities?
    The comedy titans of Avalon on their attempt to save BBC3

    Jon Thoday and Richard Allen-Turner

    The comedy titans of Avalon on their attempt to save BBC3
    The bathing machine is back... but with a difference

    Rolling in the deep

    The bathing machine is back but with a difference
    Part-privatised tests, new age limits, driverless cars: Tories plot motoring revolution

    Conservatives plot a motoring revolution

    Draft report reveals biggest reform to regulations since driving test introduced in 1935
    The Silk Roads that trace civilisation: Long before the West rose to power, Asian pathways were connecting peoples and places

    The Silk Roads that trace civilisation

    Long before the West rose to power, Asian pathways were connecting peoples and places
    House of Lords: Outcry as donors, fixers and MPs caught up in expenses scandal are ennobled

    The honours that shame Britain

    Outcry as donors, fixers and MPs caught up in expenses scandal are ennobled
    When it comes to street harassment, we need to talk about race

    'When it comes to street harassment, we need to talk about race'

    Why are black men living the stereotypes and why are we letting them get away with it?
    International Tap Festival: Forget Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers - this dancing is improvised, spontaneous and rhythmic

    International Tap Festival comes to the UK

    Forget Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers - this dancing is improvised, spontaneous and rhythmic
    War with Isis: Is Turkey's buffer zone in Syria a matter of self-defence – or just anti-Kurd?

    Turkey's buffer zone in Syria: self-defence – or just anti-Kurd?

    Ankara accused of exacerbating racial division by allowing Turkmen minority to cross the border