Anthony Rose on wine: Los clásicos


With each passing year, the Wines from Spain Awards throw up
more variety and better quality across the board. Chosen from nearly 1,000
wines, the top awards demonstrate that while rioja is still a vital part of
what Spain does well, there is so much more to the country’s wine today in
style, in quality and in value. Spain in many ways is Europe’s greatest hope
for a challenge to the New World dominance of the past two decades.

Twenty years ago, Spanish white wines got little attention, but Galicia and Rueda have created a sea-change in the appetisingly clean-cut, dry styles. Galicia got the ball rolling with its crisp, seafood-friendly albariño whites, so it was no coincidence that the award for the best white over £10 this month went jointly to two delicious Galician examples.

Not surprisingly, one award went to the 2012 Pazo de Señorans, The Society’s Exhibition Albariño, £12.95, The Wine

Society, a crystalline beauty of crisp saline purity. The other, made from the godello grape and utterly different in style, was the 2012, Louro, Rafael Palacios, £16.95, Noel Young (01223 566744), Bottle Apostle (020-8985 1549), Harvey Nichols, a superbly rich, intense dry Valdeorras white framed by subtle oak in white burgundy mould.

The rioja award went to a newcomer, a vanilla oak-matured 2007 Gómez Cruzado, £17.99, Laithwaites (08451947711), while Best Red over £10 was for the 2011 Elios, Costers del Priorat, £11.75 (, a rich, ripe blackberry-filled Catalonian blend of garnacha, cariñena and syrah.

True class doesn’t come cheap but was on ample display in the Best Premium Red and Best of Show. Made from the tempranillo grape, the 2009 Cillar de Silos, around £35, Berry Bros & Rudd (0800 2802440), Oddbins, is a seamless Ribera del Duero whose elegant damsonfreshness belies the concentration of berry fruit and delicate oak smokiness.

There’s Spanish gold in its sweet and fortified wines, in particular the range of ever-improving sherries made in styles ranging from the saltily bonedry to the rich and sweet. The Best Value Dry Fortified was the Lustau Palo Cortado, £9.75, Waitrose, rich yet dry, toffee caramel-scented and nutty flavoured, while Best Dry Fortified went to the caramel-rich Fernando de Castilla Antique Oloroso, £22.99, Philglas & Swigott (020-7924 4494), Hennings (01798 872485).

Best Sweet wine was a welcome surprise because at only 13 per cent alcohol, the 2012 Bodegas Jorge Ordoñez No 2 Victoria, £13.49, Harvey Nichols, Highbury Vintners (020-7226 1347), Victor Hugo Wines (01534 764044), is an exotic nectar of wonderfully fragrant and intense bunch-of-grapes richness from Malaga, with a piercing freshness.



2010 Morrisons Signature Saint-Véran, Vignerons des Terres Secrètes

This ripe chardonnay spends a short time on its lees, which brings a delicate nutty character and adds creaminess of texture. £8.99, Morrisons


2013 Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Riesling

There’s a lively energy and zest to this new vintage Clare Valley riesling whose fragrant lemon and lime notes are followed by a dry, citrus zing. £13.99, buy 2 = £9.99, Majestic


2011 Sabináres, Blanco de Garda, Arlanza

Made from a blend of albillo and viura grapes, this dry white from DO Arlanza in northern Spain is richly concentrated with stonefruit flavours. £25, Laithwaites (0845 1947711)

A 1930 image of the Karl Albrecht Spiritousen and Lebensmittel shop, Essen. The shop was opened by Karl and Theo Albrecht’s mother; the brothers later founded Aldi
exclusivePunk icon Viv Albertine on Sid Vicious, complacent white men, and why free love led to rape
Arts and Entertainment
booksThe best children's books for this summer
Colombia's James Rodriguez celebrates one of his goals during the FIFA World Cup 2014 round of 16 match between Colombia and Uruguay at the Estadio do Maracana in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
sportColombian World Cup star completes £63m move to Spain
Life and Style
ebookA wonderful selection of salads, starters and mains featuring venison, grouse and other game
Antoine Griezmann has started two of France’s four games so far
Life and Style
techYahoo Japan launches service to delete your files and email your relatives when you die
Life and Style
Child's play: letting young people roam outdoors directly contradicts the current climate
lifeHow much independence should children have?
Arts and Entertainment
Tycoons' text: Warren Buffett and Bill Gates both cite John Brookes' 'Business Adventures' as their favourite book
booksFind out why America's richest men are reading John Brookes
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    VB.NET and C# developer (VB.NET,C#,ASP.NET)

    £30000 - £45000 per annum + Bonus+Benefits+Package: Harrington Starr: VB.NET a...

    Visitor Experience volunteer

    Unpaid voluntary role: Old Royal Naval College: To assist the Visitor Experien...

    Telesales Manager. Paddington, London

    £45-£55k OTE £75k : Charter Selection: Major London International Fashion and ...

    Recruitment Consultant (Trainee), Finchley Central, London

    £17K OTE £30K: Charter Selection: Highly successful and innovative specialist...

    Day In a Page

    Some are reformed drug addicts. Some are single mums. All are on benefits. But now these so-called 'scroungers’ are fighting back

    The 'scroungers’ fight back

    The welfare claimants battling to alter stereotypes
    Amazing video shows Nasa 'flame extinguishment experiment' in action

    Fireballs in space

    Amazing video shows Nasa's 'flame extinguishment experiment' in action
    A Bible for billionaires

    A Bible for billionaires

    Find out why America's richest men are reading John Brookes
    Paranoid parenting is on the rise - and our children are suffering because of it

    Paranoid parenting is on the rise

    And our children are suffering because of it
    For sale: Island where the Magna Carta was sealed

    Magna Carta Island goes on sale

    Yours for a cool £4m
    Phone hacking scandal special report: The slide into crime at the 'News of the World'

    The hacker's tale: the slide into crime at the 'News of the World'

    Glenn Mulcaire was jailed for six months for intercepting phone messages. James Hanning tells his story in a new book. This is an extract
    We flinch, but there are degrees of paedophilia

    We flinch, but there are degrees of paedophilia

    Child abusers are not all the same, yet the idea of treating them differently in relation to the severity of their crimes has somehow become controversial
    The truth about conspiracy theories is that some require considering

    The truth about conspiracy theories is that some require considering

    For instance, did Isis kill the Israeli teenagers to trigger a war, asks Patrick Cockburn
    Alistair Carmichael: 'The UK as a whole is greater than the sum of its parts'

    Alistair Carmichael: 'The UK as a whole is greater than the sum of its parts'

    Meet the man who doesn't want to go down in history as the country's last Scottish Secretary
    Legoland Windsor's master model-makers reveal the tricks of their trade (including how to stop the kids wrecking your Eiffel Tower)

    Meet the people who play with Lego for a living

    They are the master builders: Lego's crack team of model-makers, who have just glued down the last of 650,000 bricks as they recreate Paris in Windsor. Susie Mesure goes behind the scenes
    The 20 best days out for the summer holidays: From Spitfires to summer ferry sailings

    20 best days out for the summer holidays

    From summer ferry sailings in Tyne and Wear and adventure days at Bear Grylls Survival Academy to Spitfires at the Imperial War Museum Duxford and bog-snorkelling at the World Alternative Games...
    Open-air theatres: If all the world is a stage, then everyone gets in on the act

    All the wood’s a stage

    Open-air productions are the cue for better box-office receipts, new audiences, more interesting artistic challenges – and a picnic
    Rand Paul is a Republican with an eye on the world

    Rupert Cornwell: A Republican with an eye on the world

    Rand Paul is laying out his presidential stall by taking on his party's disastrous record on foreign policy
    Self-preservation society: Pickles are moving from the side of your plate to become the star dish

    Self-preservation society

    Pickles are moving from the side of your plate to become the star dish
    Generation gap opens a career sinkhole

    Britons live ever longer, but still society persists in glorifying youth

    We are living longer but considered 'past it' younger, the reshuffle suggests. There may be trouble ahead, says DJ Taylor