Anthony Rose: 'Pinot noir is conquering growers and converting consumers around the globe'

A prima donna thanks to its insistence on marginal climates, pinot noir is the heartbreak grape. While cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay were strutting their stuff in the New World, pinot noir's dainty feet remained planted in a narrow strip of Burgundy, running from Dijon through Beaune to the Côte Chalonnaise. But today the lure of its voluptuous flesh and sweet perfume is conquering growers and converting consumers around the globe.

Palataia is so-called because this German, yes German, pinot noir hails from the Palatinate but it could just as easily mean 'palatable'. That's what the 2011 Palataia Pinot Noir, Pfalz, £8.99, Marks & Spencer, is: a perfumed red with a juicy, cherryish quality. Italy has the odd bright spot thanks to the high-altitude Alto Adige, where the 2009 Franz Haas Pinot Nero, £23, Highbury Vintners (020-7226 1347), displays smoky sun-dried tomato notes and a delicately spiced palate with rose petal, and raspberry fruit.

A slow starter, Chile's improving pinot noirs are mostly based on cool spots. The perfume and bright berry fruit of Viña Leyda's 2010 Secano Estate Maiten Vineyard Block 1 Pinot Noir, £12.99, Marks & Spencer, owes its refreshing aftertaste to its proximity to the Pacific. As, indeed, does Maycas's smoky, cherry-strawberryish 2010 Limarí Valley

Reserva Especial Pinot Noir, £11.95, The Wine Society (thewinesociety.com).

Argentina's best pinot noir is rooted in Patagonia, where the 2010 Bodega Chacra Pinot Noir, £18.95, Lea & Sandeman (020-7244 0522), expresses Río Negro's scent, texture and bright mulberry-cherryish purity. New Zealand's serious pinot noir class is ubiquitous with South Island's Canterbury one of the most impressive new spots, judging by the fine, bright, cherry-spicy 2009 Waipara Black Estate Pinot Noir, £26.75, Lea & Sandeman.

Oregon has become of America's pinot noir strongholds. The 2009 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, £27, Oddbins, is Burgundian in style with a fine, delicate raspberryish perfume and plenty of opulent mulberry fruit.

Successfully aping Burgundy in the cool of the Pyrenean hills, GérardBertrand's 2010 Domaine de l'Aigle Pinot Noir, £9.99, Majestic, is refreshingly fragrant with a raspberryish aftertaste. Back where it all started, Burgundy is taking on the upstarts with such as the 2009 Antonin Rodet Givry Rouge, £13.99, Majestic, a modern example of the style combining berry fruit, oak spice and savoury freshness in a seamless whole.

Suggested Topics
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Old Royal Naval College: ORNC Visitor Experience Volunteer

    Unpaid voluntary work: Old Royal Naval College: Join our team of friendly volu...

    Recruitment Genius: Customer Service / Sales Assistant

    £8 per hour: Recruitment Genius: This airport parking organisation are looking...

    Recruitment Genius: PCV Bus Drivers

    £8 per hour: Recruitment Genius: Do you enjoy bus driving and are looking for ...

    Ashdown Group: IT Support Technician - York

    £18000 - £20000 per annum + Benefits: Ashdown Group: IT Support Technician - Y...

    Day In a Page

    Iraq invasion 2003: The bloody warnings six wise men gave to Tony Blair as he prepared to launch poorly planned campaign

    What the six wise men told Tony Blair

    Months before the invasion of Iraq in 2003, experts sought to warn the PM about his plans. Here, four of them recall that day
    25 years of The Independent on Sunday: The stories, the writers and the changes over the last quarter of a century

    25 years of The Independent on Sunday

    The stories, the writers and the changes over the last quarter of a century
    Homeless Veterans appeal: 'Really caring is a dangerous emotion in this kind of work'

    Homeless Veterans appeal

    As head of The Soldiers' Charity, Martin Rutledge has to temper compassion with realism. He tells Chris Green how his Army career prepared him
    Wu-Tang Clan and The Sexual Objects offer fans a chance to own the only copies of their latest albums

    Smash hit go under the hammer

    It's nice to pick up a new record once in a while, but the purchasers of two latest releases can go a step further - by buying the only copy
    Geeks who rocked the world: Documentary looks back at origins of the computer-games industry

    The geeks who rocked the world

    A new documentary looks back at origins of the computer-games industry
    Belle & Sebastian interview: Stuart Murdoch reveals how the band is taking a new direction

    Belle & Sebastian is taking a new direction

    Twenty years ago, Belle & Sebastian was a fey indie band from Glasgow. It still is – except today, as prime mover Stuart Murdoch admits, it has a global cult following, from Hollywood to South Korea
    America: Land of the free, home of the political dynasty

    America: Land of the free, home of the political dynasty

    These days in the US things are pretty much stuck where they are, both in politics and society at large, says Rupert Cornwell
    A graphic history of US civil rights – in comic book form

    A graphic history of US civil rights – in comic book form

    A veteran of the Fifties campaigns is inspiring a new generation of activists
    Winston Churchill: the enigma of a British hero

    Winston Churchill: the enigma of a British hero

    A C Benson called him 'a horrid little fellow', George Orwell would have shot him, but what a giant he seems now, says DJ Taylor
    Growing mussels: Precious freshwater shellfish are thriving in a unique green project

    Growing mussels

    Precious freshwater shellfish are thriving in a unique green project
    Diana Krall: The jazz singer on being friends with Elton John, outer space and skiing in Dubai

    Diana Krall interview

    The jazz singer on being friends with Elton John, outer space and skiing in Dubai
    Pinstriped for action: A glimpse of what the very rich man will be wearing this winter

    Pinstriped for action

    A glimpse of what the very rich man will be wearing this winter
    Russell T Davies & Ben Cook: 'Our friendship flourished online. You can share some very revelatory moments at four in the morning…'

    Russell T Davies & Ben Cook: How we met

    'Our friendship flourished online. You can share some very revelatory moments at four in the morning…'
    Bill Granger recipes: Our chef serves up his favourite Japanese dishes

    Bill Granger's Japanese recipes

    Stock up on mirin, soy and miso and you have the makings of everyday Japanese cuisine
    Michael Calvin: How we need more Eric Cantonas to knock some sense into us

    Michael Calvin's Last Word

    How we need more Eric Cantonas to knock some sense into us