Autumn's purple patch: Skye Gyngell goes plum crazy

Unlike last year, there are damsons in abundance right now – so get going on sorbets, fools and syrups before this seasonal gem disappears for another year

Last year I found myself away from England during the first few weeks of September. I missed my children, of course, my work a little, and all my familiar surroundings. But above all I missed damson season; of all the passing ingredients that flit through the year, damsons are perhaps my favourite.

These sharp and sour little blue-black plums arrive in early September and are with us for only a month or so. I was genuinely rather jealous of those who would have the chance to work with them, and so rather meanly, when told on my return of their scarcity, felt not quite so bad. This year, however, they are plentiful and I've been making up for lost time with jams, sorbets, ice-creams and cordials.

Damsons need to be cooked to bring out their true sharp/sweet flavour. The stones should stay in during the cooking process, and removed only once the fruit is soft. Pass it through a colander, and you are left with only their syrup. Look for fruit without any blemishes that are firm and plump.

Skye Gyngell is head chef at Petersham Gardens, Church Lane, Richmond, Surrey, tel: 020 8605 3627, www.petershamnurseries.com

Damson sorbet

When making a fruit sorbet, it is important to retain as much of the fruit's authenticity as possible. They should always be strong, punchy and assertive in taste.

Serves 6

1 kg/2lb damsons
450g/141/2oz caster sugar
Small pinch of salt

Put the ingredients in a medium-sized pan over a low heat. Stir until the damsons begin to burst and ooze their juice. Remove from the heat and pass through a sieve, pushing with a wooden spoon or ladle. Pour the syrup into an ice-cream maker and churn until frozen. Remove and seal in a small container in the freezer until ready to use.

Damson fool

The contrast of lightly whipped cream and the intense damsons works wonderfully.

Serves 4-6

300ml/10fl oz double cream
500g/1lb damson syrup (make as per the chocolate-cake recipe below)
1tbsp icing sugar

Make sure both the syrup and cream are at room temperature. Whisk the cream to soft peaks – don't over-whip as the final texture won't be nice. Fold in the sugar then, as lightly as possible, fold in the syrup. You are looking for a marbling effect. Put in the fridge until ready to eat. You can, if you like, fold in berries left whole.

Chocolate cake with damson syrup

Rich, dark and bitter, this cake is not for the faint-hearted. It is distinctly grown-up, especially when a little damson syrup is spooned over the top to add its particular tart sweetness. One small slice is all that you will need.

Serves 10

6 large eggs
250g/8oz butter, softened
250/8oz caster sugar
250g/8oz whole blanched almonds
250g/8oz dark bitter chocolate

For the damson syrup

1kg/2lb damsons, washed well
150g/5oz caster sugar
Enough water to just cover the fruit
Small pinch of salt

Heat the oven to 160C/325F/Gas3. Butter a 10-inch cake tin with a removable bottom and line with parchment paper. Separate the eggs, beat the butter and sugar together until pale and fluffy, then add the egg yolks one by one.

Place the almonds into a food processor and pulse until fine. Finely grate in the chocolate and pulse once more. It is important that both the chocolate and the almonds are the same consistency. Fold the almonds and chocolate into the eggs and sugar and set aside while you whisk the egg whites until stiff. Now fold the whites into the almond mixture, a third at a time. Pour the mixture into the cake tin and bake~on the middle shelf of the oven for one hour, or until the cake is just firm in the centre when pressed lightly with your fingers.

While the cake is cooking, make the damson syrup. Place the fruit in a saucepan along with the sugar, water and salt and place over a medium heat. Bring to the boil then turn down to a simmer. Simmer for 15 minutes or until the damsons are soft and bursting, and the encasing liquid is dark and syrupy. Remove from the heat and pass through a strainer, pressing as you do so to pass through as much fruit as possible while leaving the stones behind.

Remove the cake from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature before serving with the syrup (and cream if desired).