Being Modern: Meaty fads

That a certain dish or ingredient should be in fashion is no new thing: think 1970s, think fondue and Black Forest gâteau, while anyone who dinner-partied their way through the 1990s may still be sick of the sight of a sun-dried tomato. But we do seem to live in ever more faddy times. Despite the recession, restaurants keep popping up, and we'll queue around the block for whatever is deemed hot stuff.

Lately, that seems to be… meat. And not fine slivers of foie gras: this is more down'n'dirty, rough'n'ready grub – albeit made with best-quality ingredients. Old-fashioned pub snacks have never been hipper, with pork pies and Scotch eggs served alongside your craft beer, or showing up whenever canapés needs to signify "authentic" rather than snooty. But be prepared: pies may still come pimped with caramelised onions or red currants; eggs may hail from a quail.

Then there's jazzed-up American-diner fare: hot dogs are served with champagne at the recently opened Bubbledogs, while fancy burgers come in artisan buns at places such as Meat Liquor or Dirty Burger. Southern-style, all-American barbecue is also sizzling; suddenly all pork is pulled, all ribs wood-smoked. Fried chicken, too, has flown its KFC coup and gone posh: witness the hype over new restaurant Wishbone (not least later in this very magazine).

But with this fresh take on fast food also comes a commendable simplicity: do one thing, and do it really well. Take recent openings such as Tramshed, where your choice is limited to chicken or steak; Burger & Lobster, where you can have, er, burger or lobster; Chicken Shop, where – yup – it's chicken or chicken.

Which sounds great, except for one thing: what if you're a vegetarian? As someone who eschews flesh, I'm left out in the cold on this one (and not because of the queues). Not only can I not sample signature dishes, but these joints often don't serve anything else at all, unless you want to subsist on a side of slaw. Pah.

Thank heavens, then, that trends are fleeting things: maybe in 2013, it'll be all about broccoli…

Suggested Topics
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Recruitment Genius: Personal Trainer / PT - OTE £30,000 Uncapped

    £25000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: The fastest growing fitness cha...

    Investigo: Finance Analyst

    £240 - £275 per day: Investigo: Support the global business through in-depth a...

    Ashdown Group: Data Manager - £Market Rate

    Negotiable: Ashdown Group: Data Manager - MySQL, Shell Scripts, Java, VB Scrip...

    Ashdown Group: Application Support Analyst - Bedfordshire/Cambs border - £32k

    £27000 - £32000 per annum: Ashdown Group: Application Support Analyst - near S...

    Day In a Page

    Aren’t you glad you didn’t say that? The worst wince-and-look-away quotes of the year

    Aren’t you glad you didn’t say that?

    The worst wince-and-look-away quotes of the year
    Hollande's vanity project is on a high-speed track to the middle of nowhere

    Vanity project on a high-speed track to nowhere

    France’s TGV network has become mired in controversy
    Sports Quiz of the Year

    Sports Quiz of the Year

    So, how closely were you paying attention during 2014?
    Alexander Armstrong on insulting Mary Berry, his love of 'Bargain Hunt', and life as a llama farmer

    Alexander Armstrong on insulting Mary Berry and his love of 'Bargain Hunt'

    From Armstrong and Miller to Pointless
    Sanchez helps Gunners hold on after Giroud's moment of madness

    Sanchez helps Gunners hold on

    Olivier Giroud's moment of madness nearly costs them
    A Christmas without hope: Fears grow in Gaza that the conflict with Israel will soon reignite

    Christmas without hope

    Gaza fears grow that conflict with Israel will soon reignite
    After 150 years, you can finally visit the grisliest museum in the country

    The 'Black Museum'

    After 150 years, you can finally visit Britain's grisliest museum
    No ho-ho-hos with Nick Frost's badass Santa

    No ho-ho-hos with Nick Frost's badass Santa

    Doctor Who Christmas Special TV review
    Chilly Christmas: Swimmers take festive dip for charity

    Chilly Christmas

    Swimmers dive into freezing British waters for charity
    Veterans' hostel 'overwhelmed by kindness' for festive dinner

    Homeless Veterans appeal

    In 2010, Sgt Gary Jamieson stepped on an IED in Afghanistan and lost his legs and an arm. He reveals what, and who, helped him to make a remarkable recovery
    Isis in Iraq: Yazidi girls killing themselves to escape rape and imprisonment by militants

    'Jilan killed herself in the bathroom. She cut her wrists and hanged herself'

    Yazidi girls killing themselves to escape rape and imprisonment
    Ed Balls interview: 'If I think about the deficit when I'm playing the piano, it all goes wrong'

    Ed Balls interview

    'If I think about the deficit when I'm playing the piano, it all goes wrong'
    He's behind you, dude!

    US stars in UK panto

    From David Hasselhoff to Jerry Hall
    Grace Dent's Christmas Quiz: What are you – a festive curmudgeon or top of the tree?

    Grace Dent's Christmas Quiz

    What are you – a festive curmudgeon or top of the tree?
    Nasa planning to build cloud cities in airships above Venus

    Nasa planning to build cloud cities in airships above Venus

    Planet’s surface is inhospitable to humans but 30 miles above it is almost perfect