Best artisan beer: Brewdog's Hardcore IPA

The BrewDog boys – what a piece of work those two are. I first arranged to meet James B Watt and Martin Dickie last year, in Edinburgh. They suggested Princes Street Gardens. I found them there on a park bench, well away, like a couple of old topers, swigging their beers from brown paper bags and raising the finger to anyone who dared come on all self-righteous. I joined them, and we had a riotous time. Did we vomit in the street and slump comatose in a corner? No. We simply drank some of the best beer brewed on this planet.

The boys established BrewDog in Fraserburgh, in 2007. A tough Aberdeenshire town, it was unlikely to provide much trade for a craft brewer. So they decided to promote a very non-microbrewer, in-your-face personality for their new brewery. And then to brew supreme, challenging beers with names like Punk IPA, Hardcore IPA, Hop Rocker and Rip Tide that get the PC brigade in a tizz and has even had the Portman Group try to ban them from shops. The boys, of course, love the free publicity and notoriety. Critics say their beers promote binge-drinking – but that's rubbish. They're strong, tasty and expensive. Hardcore IPA is 9 per cent alcohol and costs £1.99 for 330ml. Think how much cheap supermarket lager you'd get for that.

The flavour is momentous, like a stew of bittersweet Dundee Marmalade, the headiest of scented hops, and a thick deep malt that rolls across your palate drowned in a glorious foam of delight.

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