Bites: Antipodean effect

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Indy Lifestyle Online

C Restaurant, Blanch House, 17 Atlingworth Street, Brighton, East Sussex (01273 645755). Tue, Wed dinner, Thur, Fri lunch and dinner, Sat dinner, Sun lunch and dinner. Chef Cass Titcombe isn't Australian, but you'd be forgiven for thinking so. He delivers successfully diverse assemblies of ingredients in the relentlessly white dining room of a funky townhouse hotel. Try crispy salt and pepper-coated squid with tomato, chilli and mint sambal, and monkfish in sweetcorn and ginger curry with cockles, mushrooms, coriander and lime as evidence. These might be on a dinner menu – £30 for three courses. Lunch is £20.

Mju, Millennium Knightsbridge Hotel, 17 Sloane Street, London SW1 (020-7201 6330). Mon-Fri lunch and dinner. The latest high-profile Australian chef to touch down in London (he's here for one week each month to cook in this satellite restaurant) is Tetsuya Wakuda. Originally from Japan, he's pre-emininent in Oz, famous for his confit of Petuna Ocean trout with fennel salad; roast scampi with tea and scampi oil, and floating island (poached meringue) filled with raspberry and chocolate sauces. Be prepared for endless small courses of fish, exquisite but decidedly expensive – lunch is £25, but dinner costs around double that – for food that may not quite match the original in a restaurant that lacks personality.

The Sugar Club, 21 Warwick Street, London W1 (020-7437 7776). Daily lunch and dinner. Should anyone need reminding that The Sugar Club is almost synonymous with fusion, here it is. This is where Peter Gordon first proved it can be pulled off; chef David Selex takes over where Gordon left off. You're unlikely to find better: spicy kangaroo salad with mint, peanuts and lime-chilli dressing (£8.80); grilled squid and shishito with mizuma and red onion salad, lemon ponzu and crispy nori (£8.20); and buffalo bocconcini, rocket, slow roast tamarillo with sweet balsamic and plantain crisps are just three starters to illustrate the cooking. £30-plus for three courses without drinks. Its sister restaurant Bali Sugar, at 33A All Saints Road, London W11 (020-7221 4477) is where The Sugar Club was before it went up west and upped its prices. The chef's the same, the menu similar, the rooms charming and the back garden an urban wonder.

Wapping Food , Wapping Power Station, Wapping Wall, London E1 (020-7680 2080). Mon-Sat lunch and dinner, Sun lunch. A terrific selection of European dishes – pork rillette, toast and cornichons; rack of lamb, cous cous, white bean houmus and cardamom roast peppers – is cooked in a behind-the-counter kitchen and served in the power station-turned-art space. £25 for three courses. It's a great place, but the real reason it's here is the all-Australian wine list.

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