Bites: Some of the best Welsh restaurants

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Indy Lifestyle Online

Cafe Nicoise, 124 Abergele Road, Colwyn Bay, Conwy (01492 531555). Mon, Tue dinner, Wed-Sat lunch and dinner. Essentially French, this bistro treats local ingredients to incisive cooking. After hot little home-baked rolls, start with wild mushroom risotto or split pea and ham hock soup; follow with roast turbot and local mussels, Welsh black beef and roast veg, or loin of pork with cider, apples and tagliatelle, and finish with creme brulee or glazed lemon tart. All for around pounds 22.

Cafe Nicoise, 124 Abergele Road, Colwyn Bay, Conwy (01492 531555). Mon, Tue dinner, Wed-Sat lunch and dinner. Essentially French, this bistro treats local ingredients to incisive cooking. After hot little home-baked rolls, start with wild mushroom risotto or split pea and ham hock soup; follow with roast turbot and local mussels, Welsh black beef and roast veg, or loin of pork with cider, apples and tagliatelle, and finish with creme brulee or glazed lemon tart. All for around pounds 22.

Elan Valley Hotel, near Rhayader, Powys (01597 810448). Thur, Fri dinner, Sat lunch and dinner, Sun lunch. Robust portions and worldly influences make for the best sort of finger-on-the-pulse cooking in this remote part of mid-Wales. Thick hake steak with anchovy and leeks, lamb with couscous and harissa, good vegetarian choices, and for pudding a sensational baked Alaska with the hot meringue wrapped around home-made blackcurrant ice- cream. pounds 15-pounds 20 for dinner.

Le Gallois, 6-8 Romilly Crescent, Cardiff (01222 341264). Tue-Sat lunch and dinner. From good bread onwards, a steady succession of well assembled dishes with classical underpinning will follow. Typically roast guinea fowl with pommes Anna, leeks, glazed shallots and Madeira sauce; hot choc fondant and tarte tatin. pounds 27 for three-course dinner; lunch is a steal at pounds 9.95 for two and pounds 11.95 for three courses.

Walnut Tree Inn, Llandewi Skirrid, Monmouthshire (01873 852797). Tue- Sat lunch and dinner. Is this the original (dread word) gastropub? For 37 years anyone who loves to eat well has beaten a path to Ann and Francho Taruschio's unassuming pub for its generous food. Pilgrims and regulars happily pay pounds 25-pounds 30.

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