Can do attitude: Too cold to go out shopping? Time to reach for the tins, says Bill Granger
Sunday 08 January 2012
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Tin cans have been with us for just over 200 years – although at first you needed heavy-duty tools to open them because they were so thick. They remain one of the great ways to preserve food and it makes sense to turn to them in the depths of winter.
Not only are the farmers' markets not at their most enticing right now, but having moved from Australia to the UK, the cold means I'm not too keen to get outdoors to shop. That being the case, I will be rustling up many meals using pantry staples. It's fish, tomatoes and beans that bear up particularly well to being tinned, and these form the basis of my artillery. Tinned fish, too, can be of excellent quality, delicious and versatile. I am not into tinned vegetables, though, probably because most of my veg came in a tin when I was growing up, which turned me off for life.
Bill's new restaurant, Granger & Co, is at 175 Westbourne Grove, London W11, tel: 020 7229 9111, grangerandco.com
Chickpea, potato and chorizo soup
While chorizo has probably had its time as the ingredient du jour, the classic combination of spiced preserved meats and beans creates perfect winter comfort food. The chorizo really shines in this soup.
Serve 4
1 tsp olive oil
150g/5oz chorizo, diced
1 onion, thinly sliced
2 celery sticks, diced
300g/10oz potatoes, diced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tsp thyme leaves, chopped
2 tsp Spanish paprika
450g/14 oz tomatoes, skinned and diced
1 litre/1¾ pints chicken stock
410g/13 oz tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
3 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt
Heat the oil in a large pan over a high heat and cook the chorizo for 3 to 4 minutes until crisp. Drain on kitchen paper.
Reduce to a medium heat, add the onions, celery and potatoes to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, for 6 to 7 minutes or until soft. Add the garlic, thyme, paprika and cook, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant. Add the tomatoes and cook for another minute.
Add the stock and chickpeas, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes. Pour half the soup into a blender and whizz until smooth. Return to the pan and add the chorizo. Stir through the parsley and season to taste before serving hot.
Salmon fish cakes
I find a traditional fish cake a little bland. I like to inject mine with fresh ginger and herbs, and a little green chilli.
Serves 4
300g/10oz potatoes, peeled and chopped
415g/13 oz tin of good-quality red salmon, drained and flaked
40g/1 oz plain flour, extra for dusting
2 large eggs, beaten
4 spring onions, chopped
3 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 tbsp chives, chopped
1 large green chilli, finely chopped
1 tsp grated fresh ginger
2 tbsp crème fraîche
160g/5 oz fresh breadcrumbs
Zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt
Light flavoured oil, for frying
To serve
Rocket leaves
Lemon, cut into wedges
Boil the potatoes in salted water for about 25 minutes until tender. Drain and roughly mash. Put the potatoes in a bowl with the salmon, flour, eggs, spring onions, herbs, chilli, ginger, crème fraîche, breadcrumbs and lemon zest and season well. Mix well, shape into 8 patties and dust in a little flour.
Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the fish cakes in batches for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden and cooked through. Serve with rocket and lemon wedges.
Baked risotto with tomatoes
An onion, a tin of tomatoes, rice and you have dinner. In this recipe there's just one fresh ingredient in the onion, although the dish does benefit from the use of some fresh herbs.
Serves 4
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 tsp sea salt, extra for seasoning
180g/6oz arborio rice
375ml/13fl oz chicken stock or water
400g/13oz tin chopped plum tomatoes
60g/2 oz Parmesan, finely grated
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp basil, chopped
To serve
Shaving of Parmesan
Basil leaves
Drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas6.
Add the oil to an ovenproof dish (make sure it's one you have a lid for), and place over a medium heat. Add the onion and sea salt and stir for 5 minutes or until the onions are soft and translucent.
Add the rice and stir for another minute. Add the stock or water and the chopped tomatoes and bring to the boil. Sprinkle with Parmesan and black pepper. Cover the dish and bake the risotto for 30 minutes or until the rice is al dente. Stir through the basil and season to taste. Serve the risotto with Parmesan shavings, basil leaves, a drizzle of oil and freshly ground black pepper.
All images by Lisa Barber
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