Cellar notes #47: The toast of Calais

2003 Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux du Languedoc, Domaine Félines-Jourdan, around £3.70, The Wine Collection, 83 Rue des Gavelines (+33 3 21 82 77 04). A stunning dry white from the Languedoc. Zesty-fresh with oodles of fruit - the perfect match for seafood.

2003 Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux du Languedoc, Domaine Félines-Jourdan, around £3.70, The Wine Collection, 83 Rue des Gavelines (+33 3 21 82 77 04). A stunning dry white from the Languedoc. Zesty-fresh with oodles of fruit - the perfect match for seafood.

2001 Torus, Madiran, around £4.51, Franglais, Motorway A16 Junction 11 (+33 3 21 85 29 39). An affordable little beauty of a south-western red, this blend of the local tannat grape with cabernet sauvignon and franc from the Madiran master, Alain Brumont, offers intense, black fruits flavours and robust tannins.

2002 Simonsig Brut Kaapse Vonkel, around £5.50, Calais Vins, Motorway A16, Calais St Pierre (+33 3 21 36 40 40). A very champagney chardonnay and pinot noir blend from the Cape, this is a fizz with a surprising amount of flavour, biscuity fruit and character.

2002 Tokay Pinot Gris Fruehmess, Gérard Metz, around £5.75, Bar à Vins, 52 Place d'Armes (+33 3 21 96 96 31). One of a range of this superb grower's Alsace whites, spicy with ripe pear fruit and a honeyed finish.

De Telmont Champagne, £7.99, Majestic Wine & Beer World, Zone Marcel Doret (+33 3 21 97 63 00). With its clean, biscuity, crisp fruitfulness, this is the champagne to grace autumn parties, anniversaries and weddings.

2002 Condrieu La Chambée, Cuilleron, Gaillard, Villard, £20.26, Sainsbury's, Motorway A16 Junction 14 or 12, at Auchan. One of the many excellent fine wines sourced by Calais whizzkid Nico Thiriot to supplement the Sainsbury's range, this floral, unctuously rich and magical Condrieu delivers wonderful apricot fruitiness.