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Cellar notes: The best of Burgundy 2002

Anthony Rose
Saturday 31 January 2004 01:00 GMT
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Prices are per case in bond (ex VAT and duty), except Howard Ripley, whose prices include VAT. See left for abbreviations.

Whites

Macon Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four, Heritiers du Comte Lafon, £100-102, JB, HHC. Spicy oak, subtle with buttery richness.

Chablis 1er cru Vaillons, William Fèvre, £150, JAW. Floral, rich and minerally bone dry white with length, clarity and class.

Meursault, Les Narvaux, Domaine Yves Boyer Martenot, £185, MON. Rich, classic Côte de Beaune white with smoky oak richness and nutty aftertaste.

Puligny Montrachet, Etienne Sauzet, £225-£233.95, J&B, HHC. Superb intensity, complexity and vivaciousness.

Reds

Volnay, Domaine Carré Courbin, £135, MV. Emerging star with spicy vanilla oak and seductively juicy cherry and raspberry flavours.

Beaune 1er cru, Les Teurons, Domaine Paul Pernot, £186, HR. Pure pinot noir perfume, juicy, minerally style, fresh acidity with berry flavours and bite.

Morey Saint Denis, En La Rue de Vergy, Bruno Clair, £198, JB. Pure pinot perfumed, appealing, soft berry fruit and silky tannins.

Morey St Denis, Clos de la Bussière, Domaine Georges Roumier, £245, MV. Vivid, concentrated mulberry fruit, great potential.

2002 Nuits Saint Georges, 1er cru, Les Corvées Paget, Domaine Robert Arnoux, £456, HR. Superbly stylish, perfumed pinot noir with richly concentrated berry fruit, crafted with classic balance and great length.

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