Christmas uncorked: Kick-start the festivities with our guide to the finest reds and whites

Best for smoked salmon - splash out

2011 Morgenhof Estate Chenin Blanc, Simonsberg, Stellenbosch

Old vine chenin blanc is one of the Cape's great white resources, and it shows when crafted, as here, partially in oak for oatmeal-leesy complexity allied to concentrated stonefruit flavours and a citrusy freshness from stainless steel. £11.99, Waitrose