Claws célèbre: Shellfish is perfect for that special night in, says Bill Granger
Sunday 05 February 2012
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Shellfish is one food group that many people find daunting to tackle in the kitchen, but – and I know it seems like I always say this – these dishes honestly couldn't be any easier. The fact is, none of them really takes much preparation or time to cook, and any mussels or clams that aren't fit for eating will tell you so by staying firmly shut.
I reckon this kind of seafood is best shared between two people rather than large groups. It's sexy, not-for-every-night-of-the-week food that fills the kitchen with its wonderful smell and begs you to get stuck in and have fun.
Bill's restaurant, Granger & Co, is at 175 Westbourne Grove, London W11, tel: 020 7229 9111, grangerandco.com
Grilled lemon lobster and oven fries
Don't worry: you don't need a live lobster for this; using tails means you achieve the desired effect without the guilt. Definitely a dish to make if you're out to impress.
Serves 4
1¼kg/2 lb potatoes, scrubbed
3 tbsp olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt
100g/3 oz unsalted butter
Zest of 1 lemon
60ml/2 fl oz lemon juice
8 lobster tails
Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas6. Line 2 baking trays with baking paper, and place in the oven to heat up for 20 minutes. Now cut the potatoes into thin chips, dry with a tea towel, toss in the oil and sprinkle with the sea salt. Put the chips in the baking trays and bake for 30 minutes or until golden, turning with tongs halfway through the cooking time. Keep warm. Sprinkle with sea salt.
Preheat the grill to high. Melt the butter in a small pan over a low heat, add the lemon zest and juice, whisking constantly until melted. Place the lobster tails on to a grill pan and brush with the butter and season with pepper. Grill for 3 to 5 minutes or until the flesh of the lobster is opaque; halfway through cooking, brush the lobsters with the butter for a second time.
Serve the lobster tails with the oven chips.
Roasted baby tomato and clam pasta
The trick here is to make sure that the linguine is extra al dente and the water you cook it in is well-salted so it's slippery rather than starchy and stands up to the sauce. I've added some little roast tomatoes for a bit of added colour and flavour.
Serves 4
500g/1lb baby plum tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp dried oregano
Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt
25g/1oz unsalted butter
1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 red chilli, halved, deseeded and finely chopped
150ml/¼ pint white wine
1kg/2lb clams, cleaned
300g/10oz linguine
To serve
Flat-leaf parsley
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas4. Line a large baking sheet with foil.
Wash the tomatoes and slice in half lengthwise. Place the tomatoes, cut-side up, on the baking sheet. Combine the garlic, oil and oregano in a bowl and spoon over the tomatoes. Season the tomatoes and place in the oven for 2 hours or until the edges are almost caramelised and crispy.
Heat the butter in a pan large enough to hold the clams, over a medium heat. Add the onion and fry for 4-5 minutes or until soft. Add the chilli, then cook while stirring for 1 more minute. Add the wine and bring to the boil.
Add the clams to the pan, cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook for 4-5 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, or until the shells are all open. Discard any that haven't opened. Spoon out the clams and keep warm. Bring the cooking liquid up to the boil and reduce by just under half.
Cook the pasta according to the instructions on the packet. Drain and toss through the cooking liquid.
Toss the tomatoes and clams together and lay the pasta alongside. Season with black pepper and flat-leaf parsley.
Mussels, leeks and thyme
While some prefer their moules with frites, I stand by the notion that some good, crusty bread is all you need to soak up the delicious, wine-infused juices.
Serves 4
25g/1oz unsalted butter
2 leeks, white part only, halved and thinly sliced
2 celery stalks, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
4 flat-leaf parsley stalks
30g/1¼oz thyme leaves, chopped
150ml/¼ pint dry white wine
1.5kg/3lb mussels in shell, cleaned
60ml/2 fl oz double cream
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat the butter in a pan large enough to hold the mussels, over a medium heat. Add the leeks and celery and fry for 4 to 5 minutes or until soft. Add the garlic and cook while stirring for 1 minute. Then add the parsley stalks, thyme and wine and bring to the boil.
Add the mussels to the pan, cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, or until the shells are all open. Discard any that haven't opened.
Remove the parsley stalks and add the cream and pepper to taste, bringing just to the boil. Serve immediately.
Images by Lisa Barber
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