Elizabeth David maintained that lunch in bed with smoked salmon and white Alsace wine was 'a glorious way to celebrate Christmas'. It's a safe bet that she would have been very happy with Donald Russell's Gravadlax (£11/£27, pictured). Its succulent texture and delicate, refined cure would be memorable whether eaten at table or between the sheets. Unswerving devotees of smoked salmon should go for Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Chestnut Smoked Salmon (120g, £4.79), endowed with plenty of body and a sweet, characterful taste. With a light London smoke, the beautifully presented Fortnum's Royal Fillet of Wild Baltic Salmon would make a fantastic gift for a fish lover (400g, £40).