The just-cooked whole berries that pack M&S Cranberry Sauce (350g, £2.99, pictured) deliver a delicious acid burst in the mouth. It's got the distinctive quality you need on a plate, whether bearing the Christmas feast or the (often more pleasurable) leftovers. Heston from Waitrose Cranberry Sauce with Vodka (200g, £2.49) is a curious jelly-like affair with a fresh, tangy taste, though there is a slight paucity of cranberries. The inclusion of flavour-free vodka is a mystery. Best among long-life versions, Tracklements Cranberry Sauce & Orange Sauce with Port (690g, £6.55) has a sharpness that will cut the fattiness of goose or ham.