'I love bread sauce, hot with white game, cold in sandwiches.' Many agree with Clarissa Dickson Wright about this intriguing emollient, somehow both bland and spicy, that ties the different elements of the meal together. From Booth's Supermarkets, Truefood's Bread Sauce (250g, £2.99, pictured) delivers a perfectly judged tinge of nutmeg. Daylesford Organic Bread Sauce (600ml, £3.99) is nicely spiced with discreet fragments of cloves, thyme and bay leaves that enable you to taste distinct flavours. Oniony and more-ish, Heston From Waitrose's Bread Sauce with Truffle (200g, £2.49) does the job in satisfactory manner, as long as you're not anticipating much taste of truffle.