The 'new' veg looks poised to become a popular ingredient in home kitchens thanks to supermarkets and celebrity fans
Most of us know seaweed as a brown, rubbery, wig-like plant you kick along a beach, or perhaps as nori, a dried seaweed which is shredded and pressed into flexible sheets ready to roll around sushi rice and tasty fillings. But fresh seaweed, already a favourite of many top restaurants, looks poised to become a popular ingredient in home kitchens thanks to supermarkets and celebrity fans. Waitrose has announced plans to stock the nutrient-rich wild sea green, and Jamie Oliver credits it with his recent 30lb weight loss. Noma chef René Redzepi has called seaweed "one of the few untapped natural resources we've yet to really start eating". Now's our chance.
"Seaweed is one of this year's biggest trends in veg," says Simona Cohen Vida, a Waitrose product developer. "Our customers like to experiment in the kitchen, so we predict that seaweed will be top of the shopping list this spring."
Food trends in 2016
Celeriac root
We had a kale obsession in 2015, but 2016’s vegetable sine qua non is predicted to be the knobbly celeriac root. Celeriac milk (Tom Hunt at Poco in Bristol serves it with winter mussels and wild water celery), celeriac cooked in Galician beef fat (from Adam Rawson of Pachamama, hot new chef in the capital) and salt-baked celeriac (to be found in Matthew and Iain Pennington’s kitchens at The Ethicurean in the West Country) are just a few examples. Getty Images Middle Eastern food
The Middle Eastern Vegetarian Cookbook (£24.95, Phaidon) by grand-dame Salma Hage, author of the bestseller The Lebanese Kitchen (whose halva is pictured here), is out in April © Liz & Max Haarala Hamilton Non-alcoholic cocktails
Grain Store mixologist Tony Conigliaro has created Roman Redhead, a riot of red grape juice, beetroot, pale ale and verjus, and Rose Iced Tea (black tea, rose petals, anise essence, pictured here) Gin
The discerning will be slurping Hepple gin – from chef Valentine Warner and cocktail guru Nick Strangeway – which is punctuated with bog-myrtle nuances Argyll and Bute
Restaurant followers are getting in a froth about Pam Brunton in Scotland, who opened the Inver restaurant in Argyll and Bute to acclaim last year Andy Oliver’s Som Saa
One of the most eagerly awaited restaurants of 2016 will be the permanent incarnation of Andy Oliver’s remarkable pop-up Som Saa opening very soon in east London. Oliver, who worked at Thai god David Thompson’s Nahm in Bangkok, raised a whopping £700,000 through crowdfunding, and is renowned for his piquant Thai flavours and obsessive attention to detail, including in his home ferments and DIY coconut cream © Adam Weatherley Venison
Another ruminant in vogue is venison, with Sainsbury’s doubling its line for 2016. It provides a protein-packed punch, with B vitamins and iron, and it’s low in fat. Its entry into the mainstream is in part thanks to the Scottish restaurant Mac and Wild, just opened in London, whose Celtic head chef Andy Waugh (who also runs the Wild Game Co) has been touting it as street food for years (his venison burger pictured here) Goat
From Brett Graham’s The Ledbury to Angela Hartnett’s kitchens at Lime Wood Hotel in the New Forest, Cabrito is the go-to goat supplier among the chef cognoscenti (roasted loin of kid pictured here) – but this year, domestic cooks can get in on the action, as Sushila Moles and James Whetlor of Cabrito offer their meat through Ocado Mike Lusmore / mikelusmore.com Coffee
Coffee sage George Crawford is launching the much-anticipated Cupsmith with his partner, Emma. Crawford believes that 2016 is the year purist coffee will finally meet the masses; Cupsmith’s mission will be to make craft coffee as popular as craft beer on the high street. The company roasts Arabica beans in small batches, improving its quality – but sells it online, at cupsmith.com, in an approachable way: expect cheerful packaging and names such as Afternoon Reviver Coffee (designed for drinking with milk – no matter how uncouth, most of us want milk) and Glorious Espresso Julia Conway 120-day-old steak
Hanging meat for extremely long lengths of time has become an art. In Cumbria, Lake Road Kitchen’s James Cross is plating up 120-day-old steak (pictured here). The beef is from influential “ager” Dan Austin of Lake District Farmers, who is currently investigating the individual bacterial cultures that go into this maturing process Lotus root
Diners can expect root-to-stem dining - cue the full lotus deployed by the Michelin-starred Indian Benares in its kamal kakdi aur paneer korma Getty Images Waitrose will stock a variety called kombu on 139 fish counters from 20 April, harvested by The Cornish Seaweed Company and costing £1.99 per packet. But what if your pockets aren't Waitrose-deep, never mind Noma-ready? As Redzepi says, seaweed is a natural resource and ripe for the picking, but how easy is it to collect for free from our shores, how should we cook and eat it, and is it always safe?
Marcus Harrison runs foraging courses via his Wild Food School and recently published Cooking with Seaweed: 101+ Ways. "Be safe," he advises. "Know which seaweeds are safe to eat, work out what the tide times are like, and wear strong boots or wellingtons – preferably non-slip – since most seaweed grows in low-lying rocky environments on the shoreline. Any seaweed that you want to eat should be attached to a rock. Seaweed washed on to the beach is not fit or safe to eat."
Noma chef René Redzepi has called seaweed ‘one of the few untapped natural resources we've yet to really start eating’ (Getty)
About 650 varieties of edible seaweed grow on British coastlines and it's often said they are all safe to eat, but Harrison disagrees. He names badderlocks/dabberlocks, tangle, sugar kelp, sea spaghetti, dulse, laver, sea lettuce, gutweed and carrageen, or Irish moss, as good for consumption – Google-image-search these and you'll recognise a handful – but advises against eating some varieties too often, because they are dense in iodine.
But what to do once you get them back to your kitchen? "Thicker, more robust seaweeds such as tangle and sugar kelp are best in stew-type dishes, or deep fried and served like crisps," says Harrison.
Sugar kelp is one of 650 varieties of edible seaweed that grows on British coastlines (Rex)
"Thinner dulse can be eaten raw (fresh or dried), while making an interesting ingredient for stir-fry food. Laver is generally too tough to eat like that. For laver bread, it's boiled for hours until it coalesces into a dark green jelly-like mass.
"Sea lettuce can be used raw or cooked. Being very fine leaved, it lends itself to use as a seaweed salad ingredient; or larger fronds may be used to wrap around food to be steamed. The gutweeds are also very finely structured and may be used in salads (when young), steamed, or cooked. Irish moss is only used for its carrageen, as an alternative to gelatin."
From left to right : Seamoss, sea lettuce, sugar kelp, and laver (Rex)
There are few opportunities for a free lunch these days, and seaweed has spectacular health benefits. It's great for digestive health and it has more vitamin C than oranges. It's also packed with protein and is the only vegetal source of vitamin B12.
But Harrison stresses to forage responsibly. "If 60 million people start heading for the shore and ripping up all the seaweed... that is going to damage the environment."