Gastronaut shops for... Blackberry jams & jellies

It's been a bumper year for blackberries. They're ripe, early and, as always, free. So what's stopping you going out armed with a basket to attack those berry-laden bushes? Well, they fight back with thorns, and as well as shredded hands and stained fingers, you risk back strain from bending and stretching to reach those tantalisingly distant berries. Even if you're not so easily put off, are you really going to make jam with them? Buy the best for your toast and stew precious pickings to eat with cream.

It's been a bumper year for blackberries. They're ripe, early and, as always, free. So what's stopping you going out armed with a basket to attack those berry-laden bushes? Well, they fight back with thorns, and as well as shredded hands and stained fingers, you risk back strain from bending and stretching to reach those tantalisingly distant berries. Even if you're not so easily put off, are you really going to make jam with them? Buy the best for your toast and stew precious pickings to eat with cream.

WHERE TO BUY

Marks & Spencer Fresh Blackberry and Raspberry Conserve

Who says supermarkets are oblivious to the seasons? This seasonal special is only around for a couple of months. It's dated August 2003, like home-made, but is too solid to pass as such. Tells you what berries it's made with, but not where. (£2.19 for 340g in stores nationwide.)

Harvey Nichols Blackberry and Apple Preserve Extra Jam

How do they retain fruity lumps and whole blackberries without too many pips? Almost too perfect to be home-made; you could decant it and claim you made it, but that would waste the Harvey Nicks' label. (£2.30 for 340g from Harvey Nichols, 020 7235 5000.)

Wendy Brandon Bramble Jelly

Based in a Welsh mill, Wendy Brandon has been perfecting her preserving for 18 years. It shows. This is a light, truly fruity jelly like a breath of fresh autumnal air. An expensive cheat - and treat. (£3.45 for 340g plus £5.75 delivery, direct by mail order from 01239 841568 or www.wendybrandon.co.uk; Kennedy's Fine Chocolates, Orton, Cumbria, 01539 624781; Cheshire Smokehouse, Wilmslow, 01625 548499.)

Wilkin & Sons Tiptree Blackberry Jelly

The pips are no great loss in this smooth, fairly firm jelly. The brambley flavour's all there and itching to get itself on to your toast. Classy for the price. (£1.45 for 340g, stockists at www.tiptree.com.)

Bunalun Organic Farm Bramble Berry Preserve

From a stylish organic range made in Ireland. This intensely flavoured, dark and deeply fruity preserve (between a jam and jelly) is distinctly sweet. (£2.99 for 290g, from Selfridges, 0870 837 7377.)